stock connecting rod question?

ols0051 · 03-01-2005, 11:13 AM

I was wondering if it would be a good idea to reuse the stock rod bolts? I bought new arp rod bolts but now I don't want to spend a $100 getting them put in. Can I get by a year with the stockers. This is the first time the motor has been apart. Or am I asking for trouble. 92 stock shortblock,trickflow track heats,tfs stage2 cam,victor jr,650cfm,100shot...thanks......

skibender · 03-01-2005, 01:35 PM

I would not reuse them. It could end up costing you more in the long run if one of those heads snap off. Those bolts are stretched after torqued and if you use them again, they will stretch more and more likely to yield (snap). Just my opinion.

ols0051 · 03-01-2005, 01:50 PM

That's not the answer I was looking for. But I better quit being cheap. Spending money is the name of the game in this hobbie.

tireburner163 · 03-01-2005, 03:13 PM

Agreed, ALWAYS go with new hardware, it's cheap insurance in the long run.

Rebuilding a motor without new hardware is like taking a crap then not wiping

ols0051 · 03-01-2005, 03:23 PM

Is it worth it to spend the $100 to have the new rod bolts put in my stock rods, or should I look into buying a new set?(so i'll have $150 in stock rods).

mustangII460 · 03-01-2005, 05:14 PM

Theres nothing wrong with stock connecting rods. If you reuse the rods you HAVE to resize them. The big ends get egged shaped and new bearings will become egg shaped in a few miles.

I agree NEW bolts. But without resized rods/new rods, its a waste of time either way.

So if its cost effective to get new rods with bolts that may be the way to go.

Ieatcamaros · 03-01-2005, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mustangII460

Theres nothing wrong with stock connecting rods. If you reuse the rods you HAVE to resize them. The big ends get egged shaped and new bearings will become egg shaped in a few miles.

I agree NEW bolts. But without resized rods/new rods, its a waste of time either way.

So if its cost effective to get new rods with bolts that may be the way to go.

I have rebuilt several motors and I have never resized a set of rods. I know exactly what you are talking about by the ends getting egg shaped, but they do not always do that. I have used stock rods, bolts, and nuts almost every time and never had any trouble. Not trying to pick a fight, just stating my experience.

ols0051 · 03-01-2005, 09:02 PM

Well, I brought them down to the machine shop with my pack of ARP bolts. He'll install the new hardware and resize them. I would be really pissed if I used the old hardware and something let go.

andy669 · 03-03-2005, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ieatcamaros

I have rebuilt several motors and I have never resized a set of rods. I know exactly what you are talking about by the ends getting egg shaped, but they do not always do that. I have used stock rods, bolts, and nuts almost every time and never had any trouble. Not trying to pick a fight, just stating my experience.

What are you using to check the roundness? It wont show up using a caliper or dial bore gauge. If you use the indicator that is on the rod reconditioning machine, I guarantee it will show up. Not trying to pick a fight, just stating my experience.

Andy

Chevyguy · 03-08-2005, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ieatcamaros

I have rebuilt several motors and I have never resized a set of rods. I know exactly what you are talking about by the ends getting egg shaped, but they do not always do that. I have used stock rods, bolts, and nuts almost every time and never had any trouble. Not trying to pick a fight, just stating my experience.

However if you replace the rod bolts, they should be re-sized after pressing in the new bolts.

Also check the price on a new set of rods

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...193&CtgID=3182

I bet that may be close to the price you will pay for the new bolts, and the labor to install/resize the rods.

Rev · 03-01-2005, 06:23 PM

What rpm range are you expecting to run? Use new bolts for sure with the resized stock rods. Above 6000 rpm, I would suggest better than stock after market rods as well.

I use stock rods with Pioneer rod bolts, but I limit my rpms to 6000.

Rev

smokedchevy · 03-01-2005, 06:52 PM

Definately get the ARP bolts pressed in at your machine shop. They have to do a little bit of clearancing on the rod to get them to fit but it's worth it! One of weakest links in the small block ford is the puny stock rod bolts. The rod itself is pretty strong, but the bolts aren't. Make sure they aren't over-torqued either when you assemble them.

Rev · 03-03-2005, 08:33 PM

Just wondering why an inside micrometer wouldn't pick up on the out of round big end? No experience or opiinion here, just wondering. I always have mine resized or new rods. Always get new bolts stock or after market depending on piston speed.

Rev

andy669 · 03-03-2005, 10:28 PM

Well you probably could, but an inside mic just isnt the right tool for the job. The indicator thats built in to the rod reconditioner might spin halfway around if the rod is a half a thou out.

Andy

mustangII460 · 03-03-2005, 10:56 PM

Rods will come new from the factory out of round, cranks and everthing else for that matter. Here lately Ive sent back two (brand new) 4.3L chebie cranks.

I have fixed many "good enuf" motors. I don't waste my time without a machine shop.

No offense taken by anyone, we all do things our own way.

Ieatcamaros · 03-03-2005, 11:06 PM

Andy you are correct that an inside mic is not really the right tool for the job. I don't work in an auto machine shop so an "indicator that is built into the rod reconditioner" is not exactly what I use but it is the same thing more or less. Let me say that I know you are not trying to pick a fight, while it is on my mind. I don't know you to be a smart a$$. Back to the point, You could use an inside mic but the results will be shady. Same goes for a telescoping gauge. A bore gauge would show the "ovalness" if it has the right indicator on it. Not one of those cheap a$$ ones you can get for $20. I use a bore gauge to check mine with and I have also indicated them just as you would on a rod reconditioner. I even check the distance between centers on my rods. A rod that is 1/2 thousandths out of round (.0005") will work just fine on a street car. But I would not want it in my racing engine.

Rev, an inside mic wouldn't really work because they only measure to the nearest tenth (.0001). You might measure it to be round but the next guy will say it is a half thousandths out. It's a "feel for it" kind of thing. And the other reason is because it would just plain take too long.

tarmon8r · 03-04-2005, 12:20 AM

Asking my opinion, there is no choice. Rebuild your rods and use ARP bolts!!! Rebuilding your rods is just smart insurance. Cheap, easy and in my opinion a necessity, not a nicety. Definetly cheaper than redoing it over after a rod bolt let go. Especially with a little shot of N2O, because its so easy to turn up the wick after you get used to it. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. You can do what you like, its your motor and money.

stanggirl777 · 03-09-2005, 05:50 PM

I would not suggest reusing rod bolts, you end up paying more for the problems that you could have than it would cost to get them installed.

Chevyguy · 03-10-2005, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stanggirl777

I would not suggest reusing rod bolts, you end up paying more for the problems that you could have than it would cost to get them installed.

I re-used my Wheeze -oh Five bolts twice with no problems. Mind you this is no firebreather.

I already got a new set of rods for my 454 buildup, what really got me was I moved up to 7/16" bolts from the stock 3/8" and you cant put larger bolts in rods, only stronger ones.

For the price of those eagle rods, I would not re-use any stock rods on a 5.0 rebuild if you are going with new pistons.

Plus the old rods and pistons make good Trophy's We did that one year for our car show.

Fulcrum · 03-10-2005, 09:31 AM

This is some great dialog on the stock rods and bolts, and timely. I've got my parts gathered and I will start assembling it all shortly. I intend on using stock rods after shot peening them and have a set of the ARP-Pro Series rod bolts to hold it all together. In addition to whats being said, I would like to suggest having the rotating assembly balanced afterwards. I am also having a set of K&B .030 over pistions, and a new harmonic balance. For me I think it's rather manditory, but even just changing bolts could in theory change the balance. Just my two cents worth.

03-01-2005, 11:13 AM	#1
ols0051 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: cent.wis Posts: 203	stock connecting rod question? I was wondering if it would be a good idea to reuse the stock rod bolts? I bought new arp rod bolts but now I don't want to spend a $100 getting them put in. Can I get by a year with the stockers. This is the first time the motor has been apart. Or am I asking for trouble. 92 stock shortblock,trickflow track heats,tfs stage2 cam,victor jr,650cfm,100shot...thanks......

03-01-2005, 01:35 PM	#2
skibender Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 3	Re: stock connecting rod question? I would not reuse them. It could end up costing you more in the long run if one of those heads snap off. Those bolts are stretched after torqued and if you use them again, they will stretch more and more likely to yield (snap). Just my opinion.

03-01-2005, 01:50 PM	#3
ols0051 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: cent.wis Posts: 203	Re: stock connecting rod question? That's not the answer I was looking for. But I better quit being cheap. Spending money is the name of the game in this hobbie.

03-01-2005, 03:13 PM	#4
tireburner163 It's a lot like a race car Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Meridian, MS Posts: 4,130	Re: stock connecting rod question? Agreed, ALWAYS go with new hardware, it's cheap insurance in the long run. Rebuilding a motor without new hardware is like taking a crap then not wiping __________________ 1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide

03-01-2005, 03:23 PM	#5
ols0051 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: cent.wis Posts: 203	Re: stock connecting rod question? Is it worth it to spend the $100 to have the new rod bolts put in my stock rods, or should I look into buying a new set?(so i'll have $150 in stock rods).

03-01-2005, 05:14 PM	#6
mustangII460 Factoy Five Roadster Join Date: May 2000 Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee Posts: 1,681	Re: stock connecting rod question? Theres nothing wrong with stock connecting rods. If you reuse the rods you HAVE to resize them. The big ends get egged shaped and new bearings will become egg shaped in a few miles. I agree NEW bolts. But without resized rods/new rods, its a waste of time either way. So if its cost effective to get new rods with bolts that may be the way to go. __________________ Frank

03-01-2005, 06:23 PM	#11
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Re: stock connecting rod question? What rpm range are you expecting to run? Use new bolts for sure with the resized stock rods. Above 6000 rpm, I would suggest better than stock after market rods as well. I use stock rods with Pioneer rod bolts, but I limit my rpms to 6000. Rev __________________ '66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe

03-01-2005, 06:52 PM	#12
smokedchevy Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: ventura,CA Posts: 438	Re: stock connecting rod question? Definately get the ARP bolts pressed in at your machine shop. They have to do a little bit of clearancing on the rod to get them to fit but it's worth it! One of weakest links in the small block ford is the puny stock rod bolts. The rod itself is pretty strong, but the bolts aren't. Make sure they aren't over-torqued either when you assemble them. __________________ 92 GT, 4:10 gears, centerforce clutch, 6# powerdyne blower, bbk h-pipe, flowmasters 65 Mustang 13.50 107mph 3000' ALt. 65 Falcon Straight Axle Drag Car

03-03-2005, 08:33 PM	#13
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Re: stock connecting rod question? Just wondering why an inside micrometer wouldn't pick up on the out of round big end? No experience or opiinion here, just wondering. I always have mine resized or new rods. Always get new bolts stock or after market depending on piston speed. Rev __________________ '66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe

03-03-2005, 10:28 PM	#14
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	Re: stock connecting rod question? Well you probably could, but an inside mic just isnt the right tool for the job. The indicator thats built in to the rod reconditioner might spin halfway around if the rod is a half a thou out. Andy __________________ 88 coupe 91 LX NMRA Pure Street 5120

03-03-2005, 10:56 PM	#15
mustangII460 Factoy Five Roadster Join Date: May 2000 Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee Posts: 1,681	Re: stock connecting rod question? Rods will come new from the factory out of round, cranks and everthing else for that matter. Here lately Ive sent back two (brand new) 4.3L chebie cranks. I have fixed many "good enuf" motors. I don't waste my time without a machine shop. No offense taken by anyone, we all do things our own way. __________________ Frank

03-03-2005, 11:06 PM	#16
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	Re: stock connecting rod question? Andy you are correct that an inside mic is not really the right tool for the job. I don't work in an auto machine shop so an "indicator that is built into the rod reconditioner" is not exactly what I use but it is the same thing more or less. Let me say that I know you are not trying to pick a fight, while it is on my mind. I don't know you to be a smart a$$. Back to the point, You could use an inside mic but the results will be shady. Same goes for a telescoping gauge. A bore gauge would show the "ovalness" if it has the right indicator on it. Not one of those cheap a$$ ones you can get for $20. I use a bore gauge to check mine with and I have also indicated them just as you would on a rod reconditioner. I even check the distance between centers on my rods. A rod that is 1/2 thousandths out of round (.0005") will work just fine on a street car. But I would not want it in my racing engine. Rev, an inside mic wouldn't really work because they only measure to the nearest tenth (.0001). You might measure it to be round but the next guy will say it is a half thousandths out. It's a "feel for it" kind of thing. And the other reason is because it would just plain take too long. __________________ The sig says it all.

03-04-2005, 12:20 AM	#17
tarmon8r Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: manassas, va Posts: 186	Re: stock connecting rod question? Asking my opinion, there is no choice. Rebuild your rods and use ARP bolts!!! Rebuilding your rods is just smart insurance. Cheap, easy and in my opinion a necessity, not a nicety. Definetly cheaper than redoing it over after a rod bolt let go. Especially with a little shot of N2O, because its so easy to turn up the wick after you get used to it. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. You can do what you like, its your motor and money. __________________ 1983 mustang, 393 cubic inch stroker small block, victor jr heads and intake, gold race 1.6 roller rockers. comp cam 304, 244@ .050. .576" hydralic retro roller cam,lunati rods. block was o-ringed,10:1 forged pistons, speed pro fit fit rings, clevite bearings,msd distributor and igniton,be cool huge radiator, black lite electric fan, march underdrive pulleys, mildon deep sump oil pan, mac 1 3.4" long tube headers, 3" dr gas x-pipe and mac exhaust,ARP bolts. car weighs 2900 lbs w/out driver, sub frames, weld wheels, mickey thompson sportsman pro 26 x 10.5 x 15's,#8 fuel line steel braided

03-09-2005, 05:50 PM	#18
stanggirl777 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Durango, Colorado Posts: 4	Re: stock connecting rod question? I would not suggest reusing rod bolts, you end up paying more for the problems that you could have than it would cost to get them installed.

03-10-2005, 09:31 AM	#20
Fulcrum Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Farmers Branch, Tx Posts: 46	Re: stock connecting rod question? This is some great dialog on the stock rods and bolts, and timely. I've got my parts gathered and I will start assembling it all shortly. I intend on using stock rods after shot peening them and have a set of the ARP-Pro Series rod bolts to hold it all together. In addition to whats being said, I would like to suggest having the rotating assembly balanced afterwards. I am also having a set of K&B .030 over pistions, and a new harmonic balance. For me I think it's rather manditory, but even just changing bolts could in theory change the balance. Just my two cents worth. __________________ '79 5.0 Mustang LX Hatchback Garage Queen - work in progress. Bored .030. Roush 180 heads, milled .010, ported & polished. Manley RaceMaster Valves. Doug Herbert cam CF4N. Crane Roller rockers

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