Stuck throttle
 

Alright, today when driving, when I put the clutch in to roll to a stop sign, the RPM's went up to about 2.5K and wouldn't drop. When cruising down the road, I can take my foot off the gas and it's like I'm using cruise control b/c it doesn't slow. My suspicion is the TPS, the cylinder shaped attachment to the TB? Do I just take it off and rinse it out with carb cleaner? That's what one of my friends told me. True?

Appreciate your input. As much as I'd love a new GT40 Crate motor, I don't think the wife'd buy off on that right now if the 'Stang commits suicide by revving over.

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89 LX 5.0 Notchback, near showroom condition, Flowmasters (my dream since 16)
98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 (Very rare and hence a driveway princess), 90 VW Jetta Diesel (200K, 45 MPG and all hers), 87 Cutlass (mine) 84 Cutlass (170K of faithful service)87 Bayliner 2250 Cuddy

thats not the TPS, your tps is on the top of the throttle body and it cant be cleaned, if defective then it has to either be re-adjusted or replaced

first thing i'd do is to remove the intake tube and see if there is anything that is stopping the throttle body valve from shutting all the way

you also will want to check to make sure that your throttle cable isnt pinched and isnt letting the cable retract all the way (happened to me before)

you'll want to do these with the car off ofcourse, have someone looking in the throttle body as your sitting inside the car hitting the pedal

it could also be your TPS i believe, i can't remember exactly what to adjust it to off the top of my head (maybe .96volts), someone else here will help you further with that

hope i helped a little bit, good luck

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88 Notch, B&M Ripper, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, full exhaust,65mm TB, Nitto DR's, new best 1/4--> 13.42@106.18 (1.89 short time)

What's the cylinder-thing attached to the throttle body? Also, where is the TPS? I am all sdrowkcab (backwords) I guess. Thanks.

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89 LX 5.0 Notchback, near showroom condition, Flowmasters (my dream since 16)
98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 (Very rare and hence a driveway princess), 90 VW Jetta Diesel (200K, 45 MPG and all hers), 87 Cutlass (mine) 84 Cutlass (170K of faithful service)87 Bayliner 2250 Cuddy

the cylinder thing is the IAB (idle air bypass) you can remove it and clean it with carb cleaner and that might fix it too, i forgot about that

the TPS is the little black thing on top of the throttle body with the wires coming out of it and one screw (i think) someone here could post a pic, i dont have one

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88 Notch, B&M Ripper, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, full exhaust,65mm TB, Nitto DR's, new best 1/4--> 13.42@106.18 (1.89 short time)

Stuck throttles are no good.

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-1989 GT, not stock.
-2000 Camaro SS-A4,
-1989 Chevy S-10, EX. Cab-383, RPM air-gap intake, demon carb., tubbed, trick flow TW heads, trick flow pistons, 6" rod's, etc... autometer phantom gauges, "built" 700R4, roll cage, lexan back window, corbeau seats, R.H.S. 5 harnesses, Fuel cell, convo pro wheels, 15x14's with 29x18.5 M/T'S on back, 15x4's on front, nitrous, 4 inch cowl hood, Ford 9", auburn Pro-series Posi, Pro-billet distributor, Sanderson Jet-hot coated headers, Custom radiator,

I tried to tell "she who must be obeyed" that we needed a new MAF, TB, 24pd injectors and at least 3:55 gears to make it run right. Damn mechanic wives- she promptly shut me down, grabed the toolbox and headed for the beast. The biggest fights in this house are caused by one working on the car without the other. Sometimes good, sometimes bad. Wish she'd a bought off on the new parts list....

At least the sticking throttle makes driving "just that much more exciting"....

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89 LX 5.0 Notchback, near showroom condition, Flowmasters (my dream since 16)
98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 (Very rare and hence a driveway princess), 90 VW Jetta Diesel (200K, 45 MPG and all hers), 87 Cutlass (mine) 84 Cutlass (170K of faithful service)87 Bayliner 2250 Cuddy

In your current state of modding, the 24lb/hr injectors will hurt you. I would also agree with the IAC motor being carboned up or malfunctioning.

I bet if you unplug the wire connector from the IAC (the tube thingy you're talking about that's located beside the throtle body)your problem will go away. Just try it, & if your problem goes away then you'll know that's the problem. Make sure you do it after the engine is warm, otherwise the engine will want to stall. Instead of buying a new IAC, I just spliced the wires to a toggle switch that I put inside the car, & once the engine warms up I flick the switch & I turn the IAC off. NO MORE THROTLE STICKING!

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89 coupe, 351W, 351W heads, 30lb injectors, 190lph pump, 80 maf, 70 tb, ? cam, cobra upper, gt 40 lower, 4.10s, (14.2@96.97)

UNstuck throttle
 

Ah yes. The IAB was FILTHY and nasty. Cleaned it all out with qtips and carb cleaner, blew all the gunk out and let it dry. Re-installed and BLAMO no more throttle stick. Funny thing, maybe it's mental but it seems to run stronger. Probably just me happy to be driving it again... Thanks guys.