Stupid question about radiator...
 

I have kind of a stupid question, but I am still learning about cars:o. I recently hit tumbleweed on the highway, and ever since, my car has been running about 20 degrees hotter. Im out here this morning cleaning out as much as I can from the radiator. (I'm getting out rocks, parts of the tumbleweed, etc.). There is a bunch of stuff lodged near the top of the radiator and the front of the car that I can not get to due to two hoses in the way. They look as if they screw into little holes, but won't budge.
How can I get these hoses off so I can clear out all of this junk from my radiator?

Also, on a different note, I saw that a bunch of my fins are bent near the top of the radiator. Im thinking maybe it is time to get a new one soon. What do you guys think? What are some good radiators?

Radiator replacement
 

I believe the hoses are for your transmission cooling lines.

Based on the damage and junk you have in your current radiator, I would recommend removing it and installing a new radiator.

Either a 3-row brass (Ford Racing makes a decent 3-row radiator...I have one in my LX) or an aluminum 2-row. Aluminum is better but for a street car without cooling problems, the 3-row fits right in with no hassle and is 1/3 more capacity than the stock radiator. About $200.

You can get a cheaper 3-row (little over $100.) at the big auto parts houses (Pep Boys, AutoZone) but I can't vouch for the quality. Others may be able to. If so, go for it.

Thanks Mr. 5.0. I was able to get alot of that garbage out and my car is now running at 145 in the Arizona summer heat! I can't get it to run any hotter no matter how hard I run it. I think I will hold of on a new radiatior for now and get a cat-back.

You really need to invest in a 180 or 192 t-stat first!!! 145 is terrible!

Take care,
~Chris

Attn. PKRWUD
 

I am curious........Can you explain why it is crucial to run the 180-195 stat?

For a 5.0 street driven daily driver, the optimum operating temp is between 200 and 210 degrees. This is where the engine is the most efficient, and makes the most out of what it's got. It's also where the ECM was programmed to aim for as a normal operating temp. When you run colder than that, you create several problems. The ECM is delayed in going into closed loop, which results in a rich mixture. A rich mixture will clog your cats and thin out your oil, damaging your bearings, and washing the cylinder walls, reducing the rings ability to seal, and lowering your compression. The oil is too cold as well. It flows it's best when the engine temp is around 210. At 145, for example, it's more like syrup than like the oil that is supposed to protect the engine. If a turbo or a blower that has an oil line plumbed from the engine is installed, you're just begging to ruin it's bearings very prematurely.

Take care,
~Chris

As always, thank-you! I really had never thought about the oil's consistency. I am headed to the parts store.

:)

Thanks PKRWUD. I will double check the gauge tomorrow. I very well may have been reading it wrong.

1hot5.0, what part of AZ are you in? Phoenix? If you don't wanna answer on the board, PM me.

Dave