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Old 12-23-2002, 07:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
88workcar
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Cool Supercharger Questions

I just traded my Banshee for a 9 pound powerdyne. It came with 30# injectors. I have a set of 24#. Which one will be better? The guy I got it from says that his plug were black all the time. It is only three weeks used. He blew his motor and has been sitting for over a year. It came with a FMU, a pro-M 77 mass air, 30#ers, pullys brackets, and some other stuff. Also at 9lbs where should my timing be set at for starters? I also plan to make an air to water after cooler with an igloo in the car. I have the luxury of alum welding at my disposal.
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Old 12-23-2002, 10:37 AM   #2 (permalink)
Hozer 88GTConv
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Default Black plugs...

The reason why his plugs were black is because an FMU typically runs richer to ensure no detonation occurs.

I know some FMU's typically keep the mixture all the way down to 12 : 1 . So at idle, which is what you are at most of the time, you just dump fuel.

That is why I opted for the chip option in lieu of the FMU. Chips are more expensive, but their curves are matched for your exact combo. So you can't just slap stuff on and off with a chip, because you could suffer some issues.

Just to compare, I run 42# injectors with a chip and a 70mm tb and a 90mm Maf. I would definitely run at least 30# injectors if you have some decent aftermarket heads. I just saw that you have some E7's and a E-cam. That big overlap will cause you to run rich anyway.

Detonation = Bad
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331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta...
One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy
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Old 12-23-2002, 11:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
Stang_Crazy
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DITCH the FMU. They are nothing but garbage. Without a FMU, you might want to go with a little bigger injector (36# maybe) and a larger volume fuel pump (255 lph). As far as timing, try setting it at 8* and see if there is any detonation. If you're ok, keep advancing it one degree at a time and checking for pings.
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Old 12-23-2002, 11:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
SaleenGTS
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He's right...FMU's are garbage....just a vay to get around upgrading injectors.....they are a hassle too...you want mine? he he j/k
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Old 12-24-2002, 03:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
88workcar
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Cool

What about a btm?
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1988 Mustang LX 342. 408 @ 6800. Radial tires, 4.30s, 11.34 @ 126.52 so far.
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Old 12-24-2002, 06:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
What about a btm?
BTM(boost timing master) basically lets you dial away detonation by retarding the timing in relation to the boost pressure that you run
 
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Old 12-24-2002, 09:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
Hozer 88GTConv
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Default Timing retard...

My Vortech SQ came with a MSD BTM.
It is a necessity to pull timing off as boost goes up.
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331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta...
One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy
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Old 12-24-2002, 03:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Cool

I know what it does, I was wondering if it is the right thing to go with? Also, what size injectors normally come with a powerdyne 9lb set up? I am thinking rather than get the automatic, I should use the money to perfect the charger?
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1988 Mustang LX 342. 408 @ 6800. Radial tires, 4.30s, 11.34 @ 126.52 so far.
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Old 12-24-2002, 11:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
SaleenGTS
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Definately get it....it will allow you to run higher timing at Idle for better response.

The 9# kit comes with 30#ers. If you have a stock motor, that is fine.....when you swap heads, cam and intake you will prolly need 42's. If you are going to dump money into a blower get a SQ or ATI.
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Old 12-25-2002, 09:32 AM   #10 (permalink)
Hozer 88GTConv
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Default Chip...

I can't stress it enough, you really should look into a chip too.

Once you go with a blower, you can kiss off any chance of keeping your idle perfect and your throttle response smooth without a chip over the lifespan of your blower.

Having a custom chip burned to your combo's specs will allow the EEC-IV to do everything it can.

I really don't know why Vortech sends FMU's with their kits. They recommend chips in their own literature.

I had two seperate dyno sessions to ensure that my fuel and timing curves were exactly where they needed to be for the best response. It is without a doubt, the best way to go.

I also recommend the Vortech SQ for kit completeness and streetability.
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1988 GT Convertible
331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta...
One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy
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Old 12-25-2002, 10:50 AM   #11 (permalink)
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88 workcar
i'm curios....are you staying with speed density, if you are do you foresee any complications with running a blower and speed density

i'm curios cause i still run speed density on mine ,i was also going to ask you about that e- cam your running and if you have any tuning issues ......i was debating dropping an e-cam in mine
.
....... i don't want to get off topic ,but your like the speed density guru ,
.......when i get to time i'll start a thread to get some opinions on the combo i'm hoping to run
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Old 12-25-2002, 12:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: Chip...

Quote:
Originally posted by Hozer 88GTConv


Once you go with a blower, you can kiss off any chance of keeping your idle perfect and your throttle response smooth without a chip over the lifespan of your blower.
A chip is not necessary in order to attain good idle and driveability. Granted, with a chip your tune will be sharper...I don't have a chip and my car idles and runs just like it did before the blower.
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Old 12-25-2002, 08:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
Hozer 88GTConv
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Default Like you said...

a chip will give you the benefit of matching fuel and timing curves exactly to your combo.

Stang Crazy is, imo, one of the few who have attained a solid tune w/o the aid of a chip. I promise you he is in the minority.

Is it possible w/o a chip? Sure. But your odds of success (that being a well-mannered street-strip machine) go way off the chart with a sound chip and takes a lot of guess work out of your tune.

I also believe that a chip with a power adder gives you the best cost-benefit you could ask for in this crazy hobby for the insane.
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1988 GT Convertible
331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta...
One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy
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Old 12-25-2002, 11:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Talking

I have to admit I am in the minority too like Stang_crazy. I also run the Novi 1000 on my car, and it idle's as good as it did the day before I put the blower on it. I don't have a chip in it either. I have a friend who is a Diablo dealer, but we really don;t have a dyno to tune the car in with.

Chris
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Old 12-26-2002, 10:29 AM   #15 (permalink)
Hozer 88GTConv
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Default Chris H...

How much boost are you putting out?

I am curious to see if you are runninig just 5-6 lbs which is much easier on your components and thus easier to tune or if you are in the neighborhood of 8 + pounds.

Are you running with the Fuel unit that came with the Novi 1000 kit? And are you utilizing a bypass valve?

Like I said, I am just curious. It's not that often that you have many genuine supercharged guys talking on the same thread. Most of the time it seems that guys are passing heresay from "my friends car had this..."
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331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta...
One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy
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