Surging Problem - Help

moosejaw · 08-14-2001, 08:57 AM

So the bottom port made it work right. Ok thats good. But we still need it routed back to the blower inlet. The reason is, once the air is measured by the air meter you need to keep this air in the intake pipe/blower pipe. Otherwise when the bypass dumps your motor will go rich. Yes I know you are/were lean but I kinda figured something was up with the bypass.

It is probable that at idle (with the bypass not opening) and low load the R-trim is pushing in more air than the motor can handle or need. Getting another bypass and setting it to open sooner 4-7" will help the off idle surge.

You can allow a bypass to "dump" the way you have it, if and only if the air meter comes after the bypass. This technique prevents metered air from being dumped out because only the air going to the motor gets measured. This is very difficult to engineer on your blower due to limited distance of piping. Driver side mounted blowers are better suited for this type of configuration. I have my blow off set up this way and you would not believe how much air discharges at idle. You could dry your hands with it!

The high rpm surge you heard and felt was most likely due to the bypass not opening. Lifting the throttle a little at high rpm can shoot the boost up at the throttle blade causing the unwanted pressure waves that make everything shudder.

Check out Anderson Ford for a nice discharge tube, power pipe and bypass combo for Vortech blowers. One neat package that fits well. You can retain the Maf in the fender-well with these pipes. There is a link to them on the links page/after market section.

Your vacuum leak seems to have been partly due to the bypass. With a new bypass you could lower your fuel pressure back to what you started with (40ish). Then with adjusting the bypass for drive-ablity things should be good.

Anderson is also an authority on getting blower cars to run. They could fill in any thing I may have missed. I'm not sure if you need a PMS but having one can never hurt. It is nice to be able to add or subtract fuel+timing while in boost.

Kinda weird but I have been to Edmonton, Redwater, Jasper..etc Alberta. Once you leave Edmonton there is very little support.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

Mike

------------------
Live near St.Louis?
Check out Mustang Muscle and Dyno in High Ridge, MO
Check out my ride.

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08-14-2001, 08:57 AM	#21
moosejaw Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: St.Louis,MO Posts: 274	So the bottom port made it work right. Ok thats good. But we still need it routed back to the blower inlet. The reason is, once the air is measured by the air meter you need to keep this air in the intake pipe/blower pipe. Otherwise when the bypass dumps your motor will go rich. Yes I know you are/were lean but I kinda figured something was up with the bypass. It is probable that at idle (with the bypass not opening) and low load the R-trim is pushing in more air than the motor can handle or need. Getting another bypass and setting it to open sooner 4-7" will help the off idle surge. You can allow a bypass to "dump" the way you have it, if and only if the air meter comes after the bypass. This technique prevents metered air from being dumped out because only the air going to the motor gets measured. This is very difficult to engineer on your blower due to limited distance of piping. Driver side mounted blowers are better suited for this type of configuration. I have my blow off set up this way and you would not believe how much air discharges at idle. You could dry your hands with it! The high rpm surge you heard and felt was most likely due to the bypass not opening. Lifting the throttle a little at high rpm can shoot the boost up at the throttle blade causing the unwanted pressure waves that make everything shudder. Check out Anderson Ford for a nice discharge tube, power pipe and bypass combo for Vortech blowers. One neat package that fits well. You can retain the Maf in the fender-well with these pipes. There is a link to them on the links page/after market section. Your vacuum leak seems to have been partly due to the bypass. With a new bypass you could lower your fuel pressure back to what you started with (40ish). Then with adjusting the bypass for drive-ablity things should be good. Anderson is also an authority on getting blower cars to run. They could fill in any thing I may have missed. I'm not sure if you need a PMS but having one can never hurt. It is nice to be able to add or subtract fuel+timing while in boost. Kinda weird but I have been to Edmonton, Redwater, Jasper..etc Alberta. Once you leave Edmonton there is very little support. Good luck. Keep us posted. Mike ------------------ Live near St.Louis? Check out Mustang Muscle and Dyno in High Ridge, MO Check out my ride.