surging/stalling problem!!
 

I know the drill, clean iab, set tps voltage, i done everything including replacing tps, reset the ecu at least 10 times!! im fed up, it doesnt surge until it gets warm, and it's better since i replaced the tps, but a sudden stop with the clutch in, it will hunt for idle, or sometimes die? what now? i'll run the scanner on it soon, but everything else seems fine, anything else? does my car need a custom chip? the mods arent that serious??

Last time i had to create a vaccuum leak for it to idle smooth, i set the screw on the tb also, i cleaned the maf? cleaned everything. i have no vacuum leaks now, and my fp is set at 38 psi vac off.

o2's? i need answers:D

The cam is what is causing the hunt for idle. There is now more fuel needed to ignite the flame but at idle the IAC valve can only handle so much. So when a lope in idle occurs the only thing the ECU knows to do is to turn the IAC on but now with the cam when it trys to control idle it goes way too far and the ECU see the jump in MAF voltage but never sees the TPS sensor voltage rise it doesnt know what is going on. What it comes down to is you now need more air at idle for the amount of fuel the motor needs. A custom chip does alleviate some of the concern in fact you are at the same point a lot of people are at when they do the heads cam and intake on the car. If you have a aftermarket throttle body look at the throttle plate. Does it have a hole in the throttle plate? If it doesnt look at your stock throttle body it will have a hole in it. Now drill a hole in your new one a little bigger than the stock one is but in the same spot. Also make sure your throttle plate is closed at idle. This will or should help the stalling when coming to a stop. This will make sense to you because that is what the vacum leak was doing for you letting in more air. The hole will act as an uncontrolled IAC valve. The hunting and surging at cold start. A chip will help. I use PMS from Anderson Ford/EFI systems. Pulling a little fuel out of idle helped me out and it may do the same for you. Just something you can request from a chip company when you order a chip. If you would like one let me know I have one from my old setup. It fixed some of the idle surging and the buck and jerk you may experience going down the road at 1500-2000 rpms cruising. Hope this helps.


Brad

i had the same problema nd drilling the hole in the throttle body did nothing to help me. Get rid of the e-cam. its LSA is to narrow. a wider lsa cam will help.

Great info guys! but i ran codes today, it brought up a 41 which is the o2 sensor, or one of them, is indicating that it is not switching from a lean reading, and that explains why it ONLY does it when it gets to operating temp?
the e-cam does'nt give me problems like it does some people, but it might explain some of the mild surge's it has, you have to just tune around it, i was more concerned about the hunting idle and stalling, a mild 'bump' on the tach doesnt bother me since it does have a bigger cam. Im gonna get the 02's tommorow......

I thank you fellas for the help and concern, happy new year!

I had bad surging problem with the e-cam, although it was intermittent at times, and I tried everything to "tune around it" and NOTHING would work for me, as well as others. However a lot of people use this cam with no problems.
'
good luck

oh, i changed 02 sensors also, with no help.

let us know it it fixes it for you.

If the O2 sensors don't help, try "clocking" the MAF. It made a world of difference on my car.

could you explain please? i never heard of that.

Im at my parents now doing the o2's, my apartment complex wouldnt allow me to do any work on my car their, so i'll get these in, also changing out my blown header gaskets today if it dont rain, thanx again.

All clocking means is rotating your MAF. Try it at different positions to see if it makes a difference.