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#1 |
Mustang Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 528
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![]() I have some 3.73's in my 88 that I'd like to throw in my 93. I have the casing open on the differential but it looks pretty complicated to me. Is changing the gears difficult? What all is involved so I know what I'd be looking at? Thanks, Keith
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#2 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() Keith, you don't want to do it. Trust me. Not yet. Maybe by next summer, but not yet. We need to further develop your mechanical skills before you tackle the rear end. Besides, I have a couple killer tools for rear end work that I might just loan you when you come up here to crew next year.
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#3 |
Mustang Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 528
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![]() When I opened the differential it looked a little harder than I thought it would be. I just let the fluid drain and came in my house to see what everyone else thought. I figured I'd leave it alone and just put the cover back on and fill it back up. What type of fluid does it take and how much? Thanks, Keith
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,325
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![]() Tell me you opened the diff on your 88.
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1997 Mustang GT "The Freak" - 13.80 @ 101.70, 2.07 60' 1995 Honda VFR750 - not much @ really fast (actual data pending.) 1964.5 Mustang 289 Rice Haters Club Member #13 |
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#5 |
Mustang Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 528
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![]() It's just been sitting in my garage so it's now my parts car. So yes Mike, it is the 88 that I pulled the cover off. Later, Keith
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,325
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![]() Just making sure I'm going to get to whoop your butt tomorrow!
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1997 Mustang GT "The Freak" - 13.80 @ 101.70, 2.07 60' 1995 Honda VFR750 - not much @ really fast (actual data pending.) 1964.5 Mustang 289 Rice Haters Club Member #13 |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: calgary alberta canada
Posts: 366
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![]() If your worried about it, just change the whole housing. Gears, axels,brakes, the whole thing.
Just my .02
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93LXcopcarSOLD14.3@96 @ 4500ft 2.02 60ft on street tires. my 67 ranchero NOT A 390 ANY MORE! 460! 3.70's cast manifolds, comp cams 262H, performer, 750DP 100K out of 79 F250 NEW(oct20/02)14.58@95mph 2.3 60 ft corrects to:13.86@100 66 merc comet351w, isky roller 600 lift 268/260@.050, vic jr. 700DP, 5000stall, 4.56's c-4, 3400lbs with driver 12.3@110 @ 4000ft 1.69 60 ft corrects to:11.69@115 |
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#8 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 351
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![]() Quote:
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![]() '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care. |
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#9 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() That's not a bad idea, and it's something I think you could handle, too.
Good idea! Take care, ~Chris
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#10 |
Get down.....
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Room 103
Posts: 2,095
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![]() i HIGHLY recommend you either a.) get pinion depth tool$$$$$$ or b.) go to someone to install it who has one! i have heard alot of people using motorsport gears and throwing them in by using backlash only. i did that myself. so later if found it was making a noise. sent it to a guy who does gears witht the tool and he said i was lucky i didnt wear an abnormal groove in the gears. i was close on the coast and drive side, but way off when he compared it to when he installed.
if you are still going to tackle it, here is some useful info: http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html
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Cobra brakes are on! Finally..... ------------------------------------------------ |
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#11 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() I completely agree.
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#12 |
Mustang Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 528
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![]() That's a great link, I'm going to have to save that one. I think if I do upgrade to a steeper gear I'm going to can the one wheel peeler and get a posi-unit from somewhere and have the gears installed during the installation. I just was curious as to how hard it'd be to switch the gears out myself, you never learn unless you try. Thanks, Keith
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 68
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![]() My story about gears swap.
I purchased a set of 4.10 from Richmond and Installation Kit along with it. As i opened and looked for the instructions i grew very intimidaded ![]() If i would do a gera swap like this one i would have paid for it to be done. B/c i had a couple of painful neck and back crinks! |
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Midland, Michigan
Posts: 92
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![]() You can get a Pinion Depth Gauge from Jegs or Summit. I just got one 'cuz I've got about 4 sets of gears to change for people, including myself. It is a Proform and only costs $100. The instructions really suck, but it is pretty easy to figure out how to use it on your own.
Hey Cody2552, You got instructions with your Richmond gears? Cool, the FRPPs come with nothin'.
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Black '87 LX 5.0 5 spd T-top with 450hp '71 351 Cleveland 4V, C6 tranny, "and some other stuff" Rice Haters Club Member #124 |
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#15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 68
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![]() Well not so much as instructions ....just like the depth specs and what to do , i guess you can call them that, let me know if are sucsessful
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#16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Boston
Posts: 592
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![]() I'm one of those annoying people that does everything the wrong way and comes out without any problems =P
I had some FMS 3.73's sitting around in a box for over half a year, so finally I got tired of looking at them, said screw it, got down under my car, took the rear end apart with hand tools (using a scissor jack pushing up on a 2 ft breaker bar to crack the pinion nut loose) and a mallet to get the pinion out, pounded off the ring gear with a hammer and a punch, cooked it, dropped it, reinstalled everythin using the existing shims and even the old crush sleeve (I figured it was crushed enough the first time around), slapped the whole thing together and it doesnt wine (except for right at 45 mph in 4rth, it hums a bit). Saved myself $500 (which was the going rate in MA, since noone around here is willing to do a decent swap unless I detach the axle and bring it to a machinist)
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
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#17 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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![]() So what is everyones gear oil favorite?
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#18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 68
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![]() 75W-140 full sythetic
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#19 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 86
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![]() I have done more that a few rear setups, I would have to say that, gear mesh/footprint are the most important factors when setting up your rearend. Getting your "footprint" as close to center is most critical, closely followed by gear backlash. both are of course are set by shims. Footprint is set by Pinion shims, where as backlash is set by carrier shims. Don't get to caught up in the math, as long as you have those two right you can't go wrong. I like REDLINE 75W90 for my steed.
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Proud RHC member #99 1990 Mustang GT Trick Flow heads,F303,Mac cold air,FMS 65mm tb,73mm ma,FMS 1.6,GT-40 intake,MSD igintion,NOS Big Shot@150,Mac equal shorties,Mac h-pipe,American Thunder flows,Centerforce dual friction,TTC 3550,alm drive shaft, 3.73's, HPM subframes, k-member brace, strut tower brace.. amongst others. |
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