Tips and tricks for installing Alumn. Heads

Patrick Boetticher · 01-27-2002, 12:32 PM

i finally ordered a pair of alumn heads are there any hints trick extra stuf i may need for installing these????
i have never installed a pair of alumn heads before so any hints i would appreciate it....

Stang Runner · 01-27-2002, 01:13 PM

they are about the same to install Might want to get new head Dowls when you do it. I see you have 19's you will want to look for new Ijetors i think 24's maybe.

Stang Runner · 01-27-2002, 01:14 PM

What heads are you putting on???

PKRWUD · 01-27-2002, 01:47 PM

Don't forget to use anti-seize on everything threaded that mounts to them, including exhaust and intake bolts, spark plugs, etc.

Take care,
-Chris

Patrick Boetticher · 01-27-2002, 09:27 PM

TFS heads.... ok anti seize what else....

PKRWUD · 01-27-2002, 11:05 PM

...unless the head gaskets say not to, use copper gasket spray generously. Also, watch your torque specs: DO NOT EXCEED them.

Take care,
-Chris

Patrick Boetticher · 01-28-2002, 01:18 AM

ok anti seize, fallow the torque specs, um any other things valvecovers w/roller rockers?umm

thanks!!!!!!

ohh 24#ers are comming VERY VERY SOON!!!!!!!

p

jimberg · 01-28-2002, 10:15 AM

I think it's important to stress the "that mounts to them" part of what PKRWUD is talking about. This does not include the head bolts.

Patrick Boetticher · 01-28-2002, 02:27 PM

any more???? will stock vavle covers fit with the rtoller rockers (the heads have .325 raised valvecover ridge)

thanks

jimberg · 01-28-2002, 03:39 PM

Patrick,

I have TFS TW heads and FRPP 1.6 roller rockers. The stock valve covers would not clear the rockers without a lot of grinding. I first went with tall valve covers which was a pain because of needing a 1" spacer for the intake. I then got the regular size TFS valve covers for $90 and they fit perfectly. That's what I would recommend you do.

Patrick Boetticher · 01-28-2002, 03:50 PM

yeah thats what i have heard w/the regular TFS covers and that what i was planning on doing but if i dodnt need to buy them i didnt want to
thanks.......

andy669 · 01-28-2002, 07:55 PM

Patrick, If you plan on eliminating your smog equipment you might consider getting an extra pair of threaded inserts to plug the holes in the rear of the head. I know the Twisted Sisters come with 2, but you will need them for the front. A block off plate works just as well, but the threaded inserts are the cleanest way to plug them. Also, if your 95 has the stamped steel valve covers they will not come close to clearing! Mine were about a full inch too short with my X heads.
Good luck with the swap!
andy

jimberg · 01-28-2002, 08:04 PM

If you do eliminate the smog pump, short 5/8" bolts should work too. Probably about 1" long.

No Groc Getter · 01-28-2002, 09:36 PM

Did anyone say good head bolts or studs and a good torque wrench. After you fire it up and bring it to operating temperature, pull off the upper and pull the valve covers and retorque them again. Hit the intake again too. It will suprise you how much torque the intake loses. With plenty of antiseize on the threads make slow even pulls on the wrench using only the far end of the handle. Happy wrenching and don't forget the gloves or you'll have busted knucks.

NO SLO PK · 01-28-2002, 09:49 PM

Buy a 7/16" tap from Pep Boys and run it through those old threads in the block. Clean threads help you get an even torquing.

New ARP head bolts with washers - the original bolts sometimes stretch.

You actually need thread sealant for the 10 outboard head bolts. If you don't, you'll leak coolant from the bolt holes.

Use a THICK bead of RTV instead of the cork end seals that come in the intake gasket kit.

That's all I can think of for now...

No Groc Getter · 01-28-2002, 09:54 PM

Forgot something on my last post. Get some ARP thread sealer for the lower bolts because they go into the water jacket. Don't just use any thread sealer. This stuff will keep your torque values accurate.

Patrick Boetticher · 01-29-2002, 04:23 AM

thanks for hte help guys.... any help i can get will help i havent delt with an after market almn head swap like this before so again thanks for the tips and i keep you updated, im still waiting for the heads to get here and the motor isnt pulled yet so it amy take a week or so....(i know i dont have to pull the motor to swap heads, i just need to take car of a peskey oil leak and a crapy engine compartment paint job!!!)

LX XLR8R · 01-29-2002, 09:45 PM

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN INTAKE BOLTS...infact AFR recremends that you hand tighen till snug the intake and header bolts...if they are anyting like elderbrock heads expect to strip an intake bolt..im serios when i say slighty under tighten all the intake bolts evenly

jimberg · 01-30-2002, 04:04 AM

You want to torque your intake bolts to spec. It is important that you are able to hand tighten all of your bolts, otherwise, you may get a false reading from your torque wrench. Once you have them all in by hand, follow the torque sequence and torque them to spec. You do not want your intake to be too loose.

Patrick Boetticher · 01-30-2002, 04:01 PM

ok i got a lot of tip i hope i can get all this done with out a snag but as we all know it happens...

01-27-2002, 12:32 PM	#1
Patrick Boetticher Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Camarillo/Thousand Oaks Ca Posts: 223	Tips and tricks for installing Alumn. Heads i finally ordered a pair of alumn heads are there any hints trick extra stuf i may need for installing these???? i have never installed a pair of alumn heads before so any hints i would appreciate it.... __________________ Mustang Sold 2003 Ranger Edge

01-27-2002, 01:13 PM	#2
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	they are about the same to install Might want to get new head Dowls when you do it. I see you have 19's you will want to look for new Ijetors i think 24's maybe. __________________ Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm

01-27-2002, 01:14 PM	#3
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	What heads are you putting on??? __________________ Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm

01-27-2002, 01:47 PM	#4
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Don't forget to use anti-seize on everything threaded that mounts to them, including exhaust and intake bolts, spark plugs, etc. Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

01-27-2002, 09:27 PM	#5
Patrick Boetticher Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Camarillo/Thousand Oaks Ca Posts: 223	TFS heads.... ok anti seize what else.... __________________ Mustang Sold 2003 Ranger Edge

01-27-2002, 11:05 PM	#6
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	...unless the head gaskets say not to, use copper gasket spray generously. Also, watch your torque specs: DO NOT EXCEED them. Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

01-28-2002, 01:18 AM	#7
Patrick Boetticher Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Camarillo/Thousand Oaks Ca Posts: 223	ok anti seize, fallow the torque specs, um any other things valvecovers w/roller rockers?umm thanks!!!!!! ohh 24#ers are comming VERY VERY SOON!!!!!!! p __________________ Mustang Sold 2003 Ranger Edge

01-28-2002, 10:15 AM	#8
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	I think it's important to stress the "that mounts to them" part of what PKRWUD is talking about. This does not include the head bolts. __________________ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

01-28-2002, 02:27 PM	#9
Patrick Boetticher Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Camarillo/Thousand Oaks Ca Posts: 223	any more???? will stock vavle covers fit with the rtoller rockers (the heads have .325 raised valvecover ridge) thanks __________________ Mustang Sold 2003 Ranger Edge

01-28-2002, 03:39 PM	#10
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	Patrick, I have TFS TW heads and FRPP 1.6 roller rockers. The stock valve covers would not clear the rockers without a lot of grinding. I first went with tall valve covers which was a pain because of needing a 1" spacer for the intake. I then got the regular size TFS valve covers for $90 and they fit perfectly. That's what I would recommend you do. __________________ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

01-28-2002, 03:50 PM	#11
Patrick Boetticher Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Camarillo/Thousand Oaks Ca Posts: 223	yeah thats what i have heard w/the regular TFS covers and that what i was planning on doing but if i dodnt need to buy them i didnt want to thanks....... __________________ Mustang Sold 2003 Ranger Edge

01-28-2002, 07:55 PM	#12
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	Patrick, If you plan on eliminating your smog equipment you might consider getting an extra pair of threaded inserts to plug the holes in the rear of the head. I know the Twisted Sisters come with 2, but you will need them for the front. A block off plate works just as well, but the threaded inserts are the cleanest way to plug them. Also, if your 95 has the stamped steel valve covers they will not come close to clearing! Mine were about a full inch too short with my X heads. Good luck with the swap! andy __________________ 88 coupe 91 LX NMRA Pure Street 5120

01-28-2002, 08:04 PM	#13
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	If you do eliminate the smog pump, short 5/8" bolts should work too. Probably about 1" long. __________________ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

01-28-2002, 09:36 PM	#14
No Groc Getter Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 30	Did anyone say good head bolts or studs and a good torque wrench. After you fire it up and bring it to operating temperature, pull off the upper and pull the valve covers and retorque them again. Hit the intake again too. It will suprise you how much torque the intake loses. With plenty of antiseize on the threads make slow even pulls on the wrench using only the far end of the handle. Happy wrenching and don't forget the gloves or you'll have busted knucks. __________________ 89 LX Coupe 93 LX Coupe (Bone Stock)

01-28-2002, 09:49 PM	#15
NO SLO PK Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Arcadia, CA, USA Posts: 731	Buy a 7/16" tap from Pep Boys and run it through those old threads in the block. Clean threads help you get an even torquing. New ARP head bolts with washers - the original bolts sometimes stretch. You actually need thread sealant for the 10 outboard head bolts. If you don't, you'll leak coolant from the bolt holes. Use a THICK bead of RTV instead of the cork end seals that come in the intake gasket kit. That's all I can think of for now... __________________ Russ L '91 LX - 331 w/ Procharger '03 Cobra Convertible - Pullied '94 Lightning '65 Mustang Coupe

01-28-2002, 09:54 PM	#16
No Groc Getter Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 30	Forgot something on my last post. Get some ARP thread sealer for the lower bolts because they go into the water jacket. Don't just use any thread sealer. This stuff will keep your torque values accurate. __________________ 89 LX Coupe 93 LX Coupe (Bone Stock)

01-29-2002, 04:23 AM	#17
Patrick Boetticher Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Camarillo/Thousand Oaks Ca Posts: 223	thanks for hte help guys.... any help i can get will help i havent delt with an after market almn head swap like this before so again thanks for the tips and i keep you updated, im still waiting for the heads to get here and the motor isnt pulled yet so it amy take a week or so....(i know i dont have to pull the motor to swap heads, i just need to take car of a peskey oil leak and a crapy engine compartment paint job!!!) __________________ Mustang Sold 2003 Ranger Edge

01-29-2002, 09:45 PM	#18
LX XLR8R Dirk Diggler Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: SLOATSBURG, NY Posts: 1,931	DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN INTAKE BOLTS...infact AFR recremends that you hand tighen till snug the intake and header bolts...if they are anyting like elderbrock heads expect to strip an intake bolt..im serios when i say slighty under tighten all the intake bolts evenly __________________ 95 undecided cubes, AFR 185s,undecided cam, undecided intake, and a 150 hit 89 "turbonotch" 2.3T You might want to hold on..i saw this on a cartoon once

01-30-2002, 04:04 AM	#19
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	You want to torque your intake bolts to spec. It is important that you are able to hand tighten all of your bolts, otherwise, you may get a false reading from your torque wrench. Once you have them all in by hand, follow the torque sequence and torque them to spec. You do not want your intake to be too loose. __________________ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

01-30-2002, 04:01 PM	#20
Patrick Boetticher Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Camarillo/Thousand Oaks Ca Posts: 223	ok i got a lot of tip i hope i can get all this done with out a snag but as we all know it happens... __________________ Mustang Sold 2003 Ranger Edge