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#1 |
Mustang Maniac
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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![]() My header bolts seem to be rusting a bit (well, a little more than a bit). Is that normal?-- I would kinda guess so b/c of the extreme exhaust temperatures on the bolts and just normal weather changes while the car is sitting outside (humid, then dry, etc). I guess I need to go through and start swapping them out with some new ones.
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
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#2 |
Dirk Diggler
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: SLOATSBURG, NY
Posts: 1,931
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![]() there is no such thing as stupid questions..just stupid poeple
![]() if they have more than just surface rust and you think that they will round off then replace the with sime ARP stainless ones and have no more probems
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95 undecided cubes, AFR 185s,undecided cam, undecided intake, and a 150 hit 89 "turbonotch" 2.3T You might want to hold on..i saw this on a cartoon once |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 512
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![]() You many want to consider Stage-8 (I believe this is the name)header bolts.. These bolts will not work their way out - eliminates you from having to re-tighten bolts on a periodic basis
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#4 | |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Myrtle Beach SC
Posts: 1,643
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![]() Quote:
Call ARP. They can hook you up with some Stainless stage 8 bolts. No rust and they wont back out. They look real cool to. Brad
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1990 GT, 347, TFS TW Heads, TFS Cam, TFS Track heat, Twin turbos, FMIC, T5. Built Ford Tough Moderator |
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#5 |
Mustang Maniac
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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![]() ARP stage 8 bolts. Thanks guys.
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
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#6 |
or '331 LX Eric'
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,142
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![]() I had the same rusting problem so I switched to the ARP's. Very nice set of bolts. Look great too.
I didn't know that they had a Stage 8 from ARP. I wish I would have knew that before I bought mine. Oh well. ![]() E
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1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60' |
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