[crazypete]

I wouldnt want to be around when that thing breaks open, thats for sure. Thats a pretty heavy piece, filled with a couple quarts of ATF spinning at engine speed.

If the converter is "bad" then I assume that the fluid coupling is going since that is pretty much the only thing a converter actually does. If the coupling is no longer efficient, expect atrocious milage and sluggish throttle response until it goes into 3rd and 4rth where it uses the lockup shaft.

How does a converter rattle anyway? It's 2 turbines and a small rotor looking thing in the middle (stator I think) sitting in fluid. If any of the pieces touched, you would hear a high pitched whine and it would sieze or completely stop working shortly thereafter from the debris of broken fins clogging it up and your car wouldnt move. Is there debris in you trans fluid? (Like metal flakes)

If your city milage is decent and it doesnt vibrate, whine or sound like it is going to physically fail, (and if you have AAA to tow it) then maybe you should just stick with the converter until it does actually fail or do the things I just mentioned. Maybe it is a benign problem. If its not hurting mileage or performance then maybe you should leave it alone...

...On the other hand you can get a streetable high stall converter for $350 or such from summit (TCI) and get it installed for another $300. Getting a high stall converter like a 3 or 4k (go 3k with mild motor) is a very effective performance upgrade for any automatic. For a more stock application, I have a perfectly functioning 2K stall (swapped out for my 3k stall) for an AOD sitting around that I would part with for $100 +shipping. Lemme know if you're interested.