[Jeff Chambers]

I've run my car both ways, and dyno tested both ways. I total timed the car at 34 degrees and dyno'd it, then set the base to 16 degrees and dyno'd it. End result? 7hp more with the SPOUT in and the computer handling the timing advance.

Don't set your base with the SPOUT in. If they set it at 35 degrees, then at full advance you'd be running about 53 degrees of total timing. You're asking for serious performance and engine problems if you run this for any length of time on the street, especially under high heat or load conditions.

When I was running the ole pukey E303 cam and we had to make 16 inches of vacuum to pass tech, I had a chip burnt that pumped the timing up to 55 degrees (total), but only up to 1300rpm. After 1300rpm, the timing table dropped back to pretty much stock. It built good vacuum, but it also made the engine idle hotter since I was starting the combustion process so much earlier in the cycle. Alot of heat is absorbed since the combustion was started, and well developed, before the piston ever reached TDC. Most timing retard modules will offer a 'Start Retard' function that actually reduces timing advance during startup so that the high compression race engine doesn't suffer 'kick back'.

Ignore that last line in your reference table PKRWUD, the curve that jimberg has is what the computer is using.

Hint: If you find yourself launching down in the 2000-3500 range (low stall or a stick car on street tires), have your chip burnt to change the table so that full advance is realized much sooner, say at 2000rpm instead of 3000rpm. You'll pick up a little free horsepower & torque.