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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ontario canada
Posts: 165
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![]() ok guys/ gals i have a set of 3.73's waiting to be put in but i wanna rebuild the posi first but i was wanting to do it myself!
and what i wanna know is should i do it my self or take it to someone? i have never done one before just gears before thanks -mike |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 348
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![]() Are you talking like new clutch packs, etc. If so it's better left to a professional cause your gonna need a ton of specialty tools to rebuild it anyhow.
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92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Aluminum Dished Pistons), Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK E.L. Headers, Flowmaster Cat-Back, MAC CAI, FMS Pulleys, Griffin Alum. Radiator, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 Lockup Converter, B & M Super Cooler, B&M Ratchet Shifter; 3:73 gears. |
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#3 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() it's not hard at all to do, and you don't need any special tools. The only hard part is getting the s-spring back in, and that just takes a big hammer and some creativity.
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#4 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 348
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![]() Quote:
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92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Aluminum Dished Pistons), Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK E.L. Headers, Flowmaster Cat-Back, MAC CAI, FMS Pulleys, Griffin Alum. Radiator, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 Lockup Converter, B & M Super Cooler, B&M Ratchet Shifter; 3:73 gears. |
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#5 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() I figure that because I've done it myself with normal hand tools.
What you do is: remove diff cover, draining the gear oil remove the cross pin retaining bolt, then the cross pin push the axles inward, and remove the c-clips, then pull the axles out some now it would be easiest to remove the bearing caps and pull the diff assembly out to do the rest on a bench (be sure to note where the shims are located and the orientation of the bearing caps (arrows face out I believe, and the left and right need to be put back in the same place) now with the diff on the bench, carefully remove the "s-spring" that is forcing the side spider gears apart you can now get the spider gears out and then replace the clutches and steels For a little extra grip you can change the order of the new clutches and steels that you put back in. I did it in mine and it seemed to help. I put them in clutch, steel, clutch, steel,clutch, etc. You'll have to re-use one of your old clutches on both sides if you do it this way, btw. Now assebly is just the reverse order. The only difficult part is getting the s-spring back in. Some people say that you can whack it with a large hammer (BFH) and it will go in, but i couldnt get that to work on my car, so I compressed it as best as i could with a strong hose-clamp and then installed it. I then cut the clamp and removed it with a pair of pliers. Unless you call a big ******* hammer and a hose clamp special tools, then I don't see the need for any ![]() hope this helps
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 348
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![]() Well if your just talking clutch packs alone, there is one tool you will need. Not sure of the exact name, but it measures what shim thickness you need between the axle spider gears and the clutch pack.
If you install a ring and pinion too, then you'll need some other special tools as well.
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92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Aluminum Dished Pistons), Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK E.L. Headers, Flowmaster Cat-Back, MAC CAI, FMS Pulleys, Griffin Alum. Radiator, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 Lockup Converter, B & M Super Cooler, B&M Ratchet Shifter; 3:73 gears. |
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#7 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
|
![]() You just re-use the same shims that were in there before. The new clutches will be thicker, but thats the idea, more force holding them apart for better traction.
For installing the ring and pinion you are supposed to have a pinion depth gage to properly setup, well, pinion depth ![]() You use a dial indicator on the teeth of the ring gear to check backlash, btw. I've installed a few sets of FMS gears and all have been able to use the same size shims that were used in the factory. The ford motorsport gears are just that good. I'd never use any other brand.
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 348
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![]() Well I'm not going to keep going here and risk another childish war like I've seen too often. I was merely indictaing the way the Ford recommends to do the job right. I'm a HD Mechanic at the local Ford store so for "what it's worth", this is what we do for every differential rebuild.
Right, FMS gears install with the original shims 95% of the time so that can be easy to do. Many people who are "at home" mechanics or beginners do not have dial indicators, torque wrenches, etc., in their posession. Just trying to give a little warning here.
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92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Aluminum Dished Pistons), Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK E.L. Headers, Flowmaster Cat-Back, MAC CAI, FMS Pulleys, Griffin Alum. Radiator, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 Lockup Converter, B & M Super Cooler, B&M Ratchet Shifter; 3:73 gears. |
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#9 | |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() I'm not trying to get into a chilidish flame war either, I just wanted to make sure people know that it CAN be done by the average backyard mechanic.
Quote:
Whitepony, if you are going to have the gears professionally installed, then I would most certainly reccomend having the clutchpacks rebuilt at the same time by the pro. Just easier that way since its already out, and you'll have piece of mind. But if you are going to tackle the job yourself, its not that bad.
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ontario canada
Posts: 165
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![]() well all the proper tools are not a problewm cuz my buddys dad owns a shop beside me. its just i wanted to learn more about the rear end part. i have never done it before i have seen it done.
put yes i wanted to put new clutches in and the extra and my set of 3 73's i am still just woundering if i should take it to him to do ? sorrry about taht i didnt want any fight to get going with this thread guys thanks -mike |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 348
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![]() The best way to learn is to try it yourself. However, if you have a question while doing it, feel free to post again.
__________________
92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Aluminum Dished Pistons), Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK E.L. Headers, Flowmaster Cat-Back, MAC CAI, FMS Pulleys, Griffin Alum. Radiator, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 Lockup Converter, B & M Super Cooler, B&M Ratchet Shifter; 3:73 gears. |
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