Tranny cooler + Ice water in front of air filter = 40 degree drop in temp!!!
 

I went to the track today and a friend of a friend has this setup. He has a Coleman cooler with a Holley pump running ice water through a tranny cooler mounted in front of his air filter in the fender. I watched the temperature of the incoming air drop from 80 degrees to 40 degrees in a minute or so after he turned on the pump. I am pretty sure the car has a completely stock 5.0 in it and runs 7.98's in the eigth mile. WOW! He was running slicks and had every interior piece yanked out of the car, but that's still quick for a completely stock 5.0.

I just thought I'd share this little trick with you guys.

Oh yeah, he said when the weather heats up and people lose time off their ET's he doesn't. It makes for a more consistent time even if the weather isn't consistent. Pretty cool.

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Gunning for 12's!
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[This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 11-03-2001).]

sounds like it might work. And WOW the 1/8 converted to the 1/4 is mid 12's That is haling!!
Might try that Idea some time it would be fun

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Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, Home ported Lower Intake, No power steering, No A/C
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You mean he does this during the run or just in the pits. If he does it during the run won't that restrict air flow. If you can post some pics I'd love to see how it's hooked up


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THE SLO PONY
1992 Ford Mustand LX. 2.3 liter four-banger, auto. Future mods: V-8 swap.
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If it ain't broke, you ain't tryin hard enough

tireburner163 - It is mounted in the car and he runs the pump all the way down the track. When he turns it on you can feel the inlet tube and filter box get cooler.

A lot of people have said the same thing to him about it restricting air flow, but numbers don't lie. It's really a simple setup... He used the stock air box and mounted the tranny cooler in front of the filter and used expanding foam to seal it all up. He ran lines from the cooler through the heater core lines I believe and into the cockpit where he has a Coleman cooler sitting in the floor board filled with ice and water. The lines go into the cooler by way of the Holley pump. I doubt I could get pics because I don't even know the guy and the track's closed until next year. Oh yeah, he has a 9" rear end too, but other than that he never mentioned any suspension mods either.

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Gunning for 12's!
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Mid 12's on a basically stock stang? The guy could get rich writing a book about it, maybe doing seminars. No, but man, I'd have to see it in the works!

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'91 LX convertible , T-5,Centerforce Dual Friction, FMS adjustable cable w/quadrant, ported/polished/milled E7 heads, 1.6rr, 1.94/1.60 stainless valves, BBK 1 5/8" equal length shorties, 2 1/2" off road H-pipe, Summit 2 1/2" catback, March Performance Pulleys and A/C Eliminator

I'm going to make one for my car and see how it works. Hell, if it works that good I should be in the 11's LOL.

I was told about this setup by a friend a couple months ago and I was in disbelief too. When I saw under the hood of this stripped down Mustang and noticed two lines covered in heat reflective tape going to the air box along with a meat thermometer I put two and two together. I knew these guys knew each other to begin with so I asked him if that was the ice-water technique. That's when I believed it so I don't blame you. I don't know what other factors are propelling this guy into the 7's on an eighth mile track, but something is defiantely working for him. If you saw the car you'd be doubtful it would even run 8's.

Hmmm.


Suppose you constructed a modified air box, with one entire side being taken up by a trans or oil cooler, and the other side being PVC pipe straight to the TB.


Suppose you covered it in a few layers of pantyhose.


Suppose you then ran a modified fuel pump through a cool can full of icy water.


Hmmm....




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'93 LX notchback, mechanically stock for the moment...

No A/C, no pw, no pdl, no rear defroster, no "5.0" badges.

What's next: Full-length headers, gutted airbox, 65mm TB.

He said the next thing he's going to try is to make a sleeve around the PVC pipe he made for the inlet and flood the area between the sleeve and the PVC with cold water as well (an actual cold air kit that works!). Also, he's going to hook some lines up to the original coolant lines flowing through the EGR spacer. It has to help a quite a bit, especially on hot days. Who has a track still open that can get some on and off numbers? I think he has before so if I can get in touch with the guy I know I'll find out.

I have seen this setup on turbo 4 engines, locally we have a guy with a coleman cooler in the trunk running a marine pump with a custom made aluminum box with a heater core in it. This guy runs 11.90 in the qtr with 23lbs of boost on a mild built 2300 turbo in his 84 GT. No detonation and works like the Vortec after cooler.If you have the new MMFF his car is in the photo section for True Street Norwalk. It might be hard to believe but a heater core is not restrictive that is why a simple blower gives you so much heat in the winter. This idea will work even better if you use a 5 gallon Jaz fuel cell and your old fuel pump you removed for a bigger one in your tank. Mount the pump in the cell then run what they call 3 core hose which is insulated and used in the trucking industry for cooler"fridge" trailers. I should have mine done in a couple of weeks with full photos. This system will also pass NHRA tech as a safe rear ballast.

This sounds no different than the dry ice trick to me.\

12.44 1/4 mile on a stock stang I would bet money that he is nowhere near stock if what you say is true.

I dont think that the coldest air is gonna give you 150HP wich is probably what you would have to gain to run a 12.44.

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88 mustang gt convertible bored to 306 BBk equal length headers, mac cold air fender kit, 3.73 FMS gears, Steeds Tri-ax shifter, Steeda underdrive pullies, Custom off road X-pipe, 2 chamber flow masters, cowl hood, nitto drag radials, ford racing clutch, 160* thermostat 16 degrees of timing electric fan off 94' t-bird jacobs electronics cap and wires. Edelbrock 1 1/2 inch drop springs. (Best E.T. 14.79@93mph @3000ft)

Oh crap! I forgot to mention he has 3.73's.

[This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 11-05-2001).]

guys two things first off might not be that restrictive for the stock engine .

second

He was running slicks and had every interior piece yanked out of the car

light weight will make up for horsepower any day. were talking of a gutted stang no big deal and as for money from a book . the stock nhra record is in the 11's by a gutted notch back

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89 with 395 single stage n2o .garret t3. 373's Suspention worked out finnaly . need cage .

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i belive it in a sec..speccialy if his car is SD

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1987 black notch(ex 4 banger)
DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one..
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I dont see what all the excitement is about? Everybody knows our cars like cold air and run better and make more power with cold air. A noticeable difference, yes. But do you really want to butcher your car up to make it work? I happen to like my heater core doing what its supposed to do, make heat when its cold outside.

To each his own I guess....

You don't have to butcher your car to make it work. You could actually put the ice water in a homemade cooler in the inner fender well sort of like the windshield washer fluid. It would be a completely self contained unti inside the fender and nobody would even know it was there.

We used to put ice packs on the intake inbetween runs, but we never got as fancy as your buddy. The ice packs made a measurable difference, though.

Take care,
-Chris

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I've never used ice bags. To me, unless the car is full drag it's really not worth it. I want to know what my car will run on the street so I don't get into doing things to change the way my car will run down the strip unless it's permanent.

Keep in mind that your buddies set-up is only as good as the amount of time the ice water stays cold, which for daily driving won't be too long.

Take care,
-Chris

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Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: Peckerwoods Pit Stop

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My teams site: Jim Porter Racing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN.

Yeah I realize that. But if you're heading out knowing you'll be going where all the ricers hang out a cooler full of ice should be enough to take car of every ricer around before it melts http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/wink.gif

It would be too embarassing to say "Let me pop my hood and throw some ice on the intake" LOL.

I see you got a new web site up Chris. I like the Newspaper theme.

I redid my site and started a second one for the team, but they're both mostly photo albums. What's cool is that the photos turn into a viewer controlled full size slide show after selecting the first picture. I need to add a page to the team page about winning the championship.

I agree as far as adding ice to the intake when cruising! I was just talking about the old days when all we did was run 1/4's. Besides, I had a Holley Strip Dominator intake manifold, which rose so high off the engine, you could reach your hand underneath it and grab the other valve cover! There was lots of room for ice packs!

Take care,
-Chris

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Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: Peckerwoods Pit Stop

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My teams site: Jim Porter Racing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN.

Hey guys, About this cooler idea. After reading this I was thinking about possibly building one for my drag car, but mine will be a carb. car. I plan on running a velocity stack on top of the carb with no filter, just a screen. I was wondering about attaching a cooler between the hood scoop and the stack. How much would it restrict airflow? Is this possible? I plan on running a stock hood with a cobra jet hood scoop. I dont want to buy a cowl hood and start hacking it up. Or later maybe a Cobra R with the SVO scoop.

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'93 lx notch 4 banger (drive it to work currently), Using the 306, 8.8 posi, 4.10's, summit rear cover, elec. fan, cowl hood, wieand stealth intake, Heddman 1-3/4 long tubes, holley 650 d.p.carb., built c-?, e-303, full autometer guages, msd box, mallory unilite dist, and coil, roll cage, summit seat, subs, 15x10's in the back with slicks, skinnies up front, custom dash, all in use for 1988 Hatch Drag Car.

It isn't going to hurt airflow if you buy a big enough cooler. If I can explain this to where you can understand you will see what I mean...

Take a 4" square tube that has a funnel on one end that opens up to 4" x 8". This 4" square tube would have a surface area of 16 square inches if you took a cross section at the narrowest point. Now, looking at a 4" x 8" tranny cooler (32 square inches of surface area), suppose that the cooling lines and fins take up 50% of the area that this cooler occupies, so the other 50% is the space where air flows through. That leaves you with 16 square inches of surface area open to flow air, so you have absolutely no restriction to worry about.

Thanks man, all I gotta do know is call Summit.

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'93 lx notch 4 banger (drive it to work currently), Using the 306, 8.8 posi, 4.10's, summit rear cover, elec. fan, cowl hood, wieand stealth intake, Heddman 1-3/4 long tubes, holley 650 d.p.carb., built c-?, e-303, full autometer guages, msd box, mallory unilite dist, and coil, roll cage, summit seat, subs, 15x10's in the back with slicks, skinnies up front, custom dash, all in use for 1988 Hatch Drag Car.

Delete double post. Stupid ragged computer
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'93 lx notch 4 banger (drive it to work currently), Using the 306, 8.8 posi, 4.10's, summit rear cover, elec. fan, cowl hood, wieand stealth intake, Heddman 1-3/4 long tubes, holley 650 d.p.carb., built c-?, e-303, full autometer guages, msd box, mallory unilite dist, and coil, roll cage, summit seat, subs, 15x10's in the back with slicks, skinnies up front, custom dash, all in use for 1988 Hatch Drag Car.

[This message has been edited by pony_power_90 (edited 11-07-2001).]

Basically we are talking about an intercooler for a N/A car.
The weather would have to be darn hot to see any noticeable gains for all your work. 90 degree air would make a nice little drop in tmep, but 60 degree air really won't be affected much. Too little gain for the work. I think it would be better to put your time and money into something else. I would be more into the idea if N/A race cars would use it, but because one guy with a quick mustang uses it doesn't convince me.

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6L: Dynomax cat-back, MN-12 perf. offroad downtubes and Y-pipe w/ Magnaflow resonator, 80mm MAF with cone filter, B&M trans cooler, Inject-Tech chip, MAC U/D pulleys, KVR front brake upgrade, SVO 70mm TB. 15.2 @ 91 w/ just chip and MAF. 14's next time to the track.

No Longer own: 91 LX 5.0L 5 spd

I agree with you, 91LX2BFAST, I am building a n/a drag car and that is why I am gonna try it. Granted I am not gonna use a Holley blue pump and a $100 dollar cooler but I think for a $100 bucks I think I can build the tank, buy a decent cooler, and a resonable 12v universial inline fuel pump. I think it will work but if not I will come up with something else to use this set up for, Can you imagine a 12v, self cooling, Beer pump.

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'93 lx notch 4 banger (drive it to work currently), Using the 306, 8.8 posi, 4.10's, summit rear cover, elec. fan, cowl hood, wieand stealth intake, Heddman 1-3/4 long tubes, holley 650 d.p.carb., built c-?, e-303, full autometer guages, msd box, mallory unilite dist, and coil, roll cage, summit seat, subs, 15x10's in the back with slicks, skinnies up front, custom dash, all in use for 1988 Hatch Drag Car.

It was about 60 degrees out that day, the thermometer inside his filter box showed 80 degrees even after the car had sat for awhile. When the cooler was turned on it dropped to 40 degrees. Just because it's 60 outside doesn't mean the air in your filter box is 60 degrees too. Especially after running the car and the engine warms up.

I'll find out what kind of difference the cooler makes if I can contact the guy. I know he made a few runs without it then turned it on for a few to see what kind of difference it actually made.

Skip the extra weight of the cooler and ice and just move north.

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'95 Chrome Yellow GT ragtop, KN filter charger, Dynomax cat back, Accel plugs and wires, Chromed '95 Cobra R's (bought for $19.95, now 2 are warped!
Our baby <a href="http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?1883">

Yep' http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/wink.gif

Ok, here's an email I got from his friend explaining the car.

"1st and foremost, his car is GUTTED. From there, its a 302 with lightly ported E7 heads, he removed the thermactor bumps, he *may* have matched the upper to lower and lower to heads, but I'm not sure. Its a speed density car. 1-1/2" lontubes, 2-1/2" h-pipe, ran open. 3.70 gears, almost every accesory has been removed, smog, ac, power steering, its not much of a street car anymore, but that was/is his goal, just to race it and not drive it. The timing is bumped and thats about it. He did a stock rebuild on the motor, just dingleberry honed the cylinders. Not much there for suspension, he runs 26x8.5 slicks. Launching @ 5000 rpms, last week he got 1.64-60'. He also has a HAL, tubular K-member. I think he may have added 4 cylinder springs, but no shocks or struts or control arms."

Cool man, my car should be a little faster than his. I am using alot of aftermarket "Better" parts that he doesnt run and my car is gutted also. Everything is coming off my car and it is a few more cubes and much more porting than he has, bigger slicks, but mine is a carb car. Well see what happens.

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'93 lx notch 4 banger (drive it to work currently), Using the 306, 8.8 posi, 4.10's, summit rear cover, elec. fan, cowl hood, wieand stealth intake, Heddman 1-3/4 long tubes, holley 650 d.p.carb., built c-?, e-303, full autometer guages, msd box, mallory unilite dist, and coil, roll cage, summit seat, subs, 15x10's in the back with slicks, skinnies up front, custom dash, all in use for 1988 Hatch Drag Car.