Trying to get Thermo. Housing off.....

MattwantsSpeed · 10-15-2002, 01:33 PM

What the heck kind of tools have you guys used to take of ther thermostat housing to change your thermostat? I can't get any kind of sockets on the 2 bolts? Anyone have any insight? Thanx in advance guys

Matt

10-15-2002, 01:40 PM

It's been a while since I've changed mine, but I seem to remember using a wrench and having to turn at least one of those bolts, just a little bit at a time. Either that or maybe a rachet & socket with a u-joint on it?

2FastLX · 10-15-2002, 02:15 PM

The passenger side bolt is a pain in the arse. I had to use a box end/open end wrench and use the open end to turn it a tad, then flip to the box end and finesse it another tad, then back to the open end. If you can afford to buy the new Craftsman Gear Wrenches you might see if they will fit in there. They look just like Chraftsman Professional wrench sets, but have a ratcheting head built in. They are nice because they ratchet in very small increments for these situations, and they aren't big and bulky like the old versions of ratcheting wrenches. I have a set of Armstrong ratcheting wrenches (same) and I absolutely love them. Good luck.

2FastLX · 10-15-2002, 02:16 PM

Oh yeah, if you get the heater hose out of the way first it will give you a little more room to get on that bolt.

Maroon 5.0 LX · 10-15-2002, 04:05 PM

You gotta hold your tongue just right and use a few choice words. I changed mine once, need to do it again. I keep putting it off, 'cause it's such a PITA.

Falcons Talon · 10-16-2002, 02:57 PM

Take off the idler/alternator bracket, take off the water pump, take off the timing chain cover and voila...easy access to the bolts...

All kidding aside, it's a major PITA!!! I would suggest making sure that the thermo gasket is tacked onto the housing pretty well holding in the thermoso it doesn't come off as you're trying to put it back together.

10-15-2002, 01:33 PM	#1
MattwantsSpeed Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lakeland, Fl Posts: 224	Trying to get Thermo. Housing off..... What the heck kind of tools have you guys used to take of ther thermostat housing to change your thermostat? I can't get any kind of sockets on the 2 bolts? Anyone have any insight? Thanx in advance guys Matt __________________ 89 LX Hatch 5.0 5spd, alot of miles, terrible 2.73's, mac cai, pullies, Tri-Ax, 16* timing, elect fan, 3G alt Best to date: 14.331@97.46mph with 14*/stock fan/short belt and a 2.222 60' in 90 degree weather Waiting to put on Off road H and 1 5/8 headers Rice Hater's Club #36

10-15-2002, 01:40 PM	#2
Simi Stang Guest Posts: n/a	Thermostat It's been a while since I've changed mine, but I seem to remember using a wrench and having to turn at least one of those bolts, just a little bit at a time. Either that or maybe a rachet & socket with a u-joint on it?

10-15-2002, 02:15 PM	#3
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	The passenger side bolt is a pain in the arse. I had to use a box end/open end wrench and use the open end to turn it a tad, then flip to the box end and finesse it another tad, then back to the open end. If you can afford to buy the new Craftsman Gear Wrenches you might see if they will fit in there. They look just like Chraftsman Professional wrench sets, but have a ratcheting head built in. They are nice because they ratchet in very small increments for these situations, and they aren't big and bulky like the old versions of ratcheting wrenches. I have a set of Armstrong ratcheting wrenches (same) and I absolutely love them. Good luck. __________________ Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241

10-15-2002, 02:16 PM	#4
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	Oh yeah, if you get the heater hose out of the way first it will give you a little more room to get on that bolt. __________________ Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241

10-15-2002, 04:05 PM	#5
Maroon 5.0 LX Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 471	You gotta hold your tongue just right and use a few choice words. I changed mine once, need to do it again. I keep putting it off, 'cause it's such a PITA. __________________ '89 LX 5.0 - 5 speed. Original Owner '94 E-150 4.9 Hi-Top Conversion Van '06 Mustang V-6, 5 speed

10-16-2002, 02:57 PM	#6
Falcons Talon T.P.M. President Join Date: May 2002 Location: Brownsville Posts: 265	Take off the idler/alternator bracket, take off the water pump, take off the timing chain cover and voila...easy access to the bolts... All kidding aside, it's a major PITA!!! I would suggest making sure that the thermo gasket is tacked onto the housing pretty well holding in the thermoso it doesn't come off as you're trying to put it back together.

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