Underhood heat caused by cam?

[Mike_W]

I had E-303 cam & everything was fine. I changed to x-303 & I noticed alot more underhood heat & my longtube headers changing color, now I have starter problems, which I will try to take care of with high torque mini starter & double wrap along with header wrap. What variable makes a cam do this? If I can't control it, change cams?

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90LX,Vortech-V2SQ

[NO SLO PK]

I also experienced similar issues after I installed just the E-Cam (I know you have the X). I believe it's caused by the overlap specifications, but I'm not certain...

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Russ L
'91 LX
Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

[This message has been edited by NO SLO PK (edited 05-03-2001).]

[dinomite]

There was a post here a few days ago about getting hood vents, a lot of people were looking at some kit for Subaru's, it looked nice. A cowl induction hood would get rid of some heat as well, but neither will help with the headers. I don't know what to say about them changing color, if the get really hot, I'd say its bad, but unit or someone else will know better on that.....

[QuantumMotorsports]

Is the water temp higher too? I know this sounds far off, but if for some reason you were running a tad leaner than usual, it would cause your engine to heat up more. Just a thought.

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Michael Black
Quantum Motorsports
Norman, Oklahoma

1988 Merc Cougar 5.0 HO, Ported and Polished E7TEs, 2.25" duals w/ 2 chamber flowmasters, T5 tranny
New E/T!!!
14.626 @ 94.94mph, 2.194 60' time, a little better than last time. Keep in mind this thang is heavy (3590lbs) Finally 14s!!!!

[Mike_W]

Water temp. is fine. I do have a cowl hood (heat pours out, stormin normin hood would be cool). As far as changing color goes, they were just turning a more blue. I talked to a fellow mustang enthusiast, who told me 30# inj. are no good, something about pulse width and too lean & too rich at different rpms. He told me to go with 42# with the dyno tune/chip.

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90LX,Vortech-V2SQ

[Fostang]

I think your engine is heating up because its running lean or rich either one can accomplish this. But from the sounds of it I'd go with lean. The headers say it all.

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67'fastback-Edelbrock carb,intake,cam,valve springs.Rhode lifters, CompCam rocker arms, windage tray,cerama coated headers,dual flows with H-pipe, modded c-4,tci stall converter,perma cool electric fan,aluminum water pump,griffen aluminum radiator,accel 8.8 cable,wide cap distriburator,magnetic pick up,v-matic hurst shifter,edelbrock performer nitrous, carter electric fuel pump,ignitor coil,solid motor mounts,magna racing suspension,poly urathane bushings,under rider traction bars, comp. eng. s

[Rick 91GT]

Originally posted by Mike_W:
Water temp. is fine. I do have a cowl hood (heat pours out, stormin normin hood would be cool). As far as changing color goes, they were just turning a more blue. I talked to a fellow mustang enthusiast, who told me 30# inj. are no good, something about pulse width and too lean & too rich at different rpms. He told me to go with 42# with the dyno tune/chip.

I think the 42# injectors would be better and you could eliminate the FMU also. If you deciede to go to the larger injectors and are interested in getting rid of your 30#'s let me know please.



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