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Old 08-27-2004, 07:48 AM   #1
whitepony
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ok i have just took out all my plastics in my car dash and everything. i was just woundering how i would get the paint to stay on i have ben sanding it a bit then primer then paint but some spots it just peels right off.
any ideas would be great
thanks
mike
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Old 08-27-2004, 08:23 AM   #2
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You're painting the interior vinyl?

Makes me shudder when I think of the individual who owned my mustang before me painted all the vents and removable interior plastic and knobs canary yellow (ricer style).

Anyhow.. The problem is that the interior plastic isnt smooth, it's textured bumpy plastic. You need to degloss the plastic to give the paint something to stick to. If you go to scuff the surface of the plastic with high grit (220 at the least), you will only hit the peaks of the bumps and the valleys will still be shiny. If it was ever armor-alled then some of this will still be on there and it will repulse the paint. It will fisheye.

Try engine paint (the duplicolor 500 degree not the 1200 degree). It is ceramic and has completely different (better) adhesion qualities and comes out crazy glossy. If this doesnt work, use steel wool to prep the surface as it gets into pockets easier to scuff the gloss off.

Good luck!
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Old 08-27-2004, 10:27 AM   #3
whitepony
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hahaha ricers like taht yellow for some unknown reason!!

well ia m going from stock to gloss black. ( no yellow,blue,red or green in my car thanks)

i scuffed it with 320
but like you said its taking away the roughness to it.

you also said to use like header piant 500 degree and not the 1200 i just wounderd why not they 1200

and what size of steel wool

thanks for the help
mike
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Old 08-27-2004, 03:26 PM   #4
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I was watching a horsepower show the other day and they just happened to be painting the plastic and vinyl of the interior. They used some kind of clear spray on the plastic and vinyl before they painted. You did not need to sand with this clear spray they used. Might want to check with paint store or high performance place or on the net.

Good luck to you.
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Old 08-27-2004, 11:26 PM   #5
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The 1200 degree header paint uses much more ceramic and comes out looking more matte/eggshell. The 500 degree is engine paint. The reason I love the stuff is that it is the only spraypaint that will actually produce a full, deep gloss. Regular paint comes out matte in my humble experience.

That clear stuff sounds like clear flexible bumper coating. They sell that at like autozone and such. I assume primer would work just as well. Get duplicolor cause it has that special spray nozzle on the top which gives you an even square shaped mist. The regular spray nozzles just make an uneven circular mess full of drips.
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Old 08-28-2004, 01:15 AM   #6
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Dont use paint, use dye. Summit carries stuff called VHT plastic/vinyl dye and its awesome. Just use some dawn degreasing soap and wash the parts well and let dry. Then use several light coats to get the perfect color. I know this from experience, I'm almost done with my entire interior. I went from the black/grey to a black/blue. It looks nice!
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Old 08-28-2004, 11:45 AM   #7
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Now I'm very curious!

How easy is it to apply and does it go on even or do you need a very steady hand like with regular paint? You make it sound like you were doing all the interior...like the seats and such? I would love an all black interior. Super maintenence free...That would get rid of all the little annoying stains and such on my fabric
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Old 08-28-2004, 02:54 PM   #8
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It can be used on fabric and carpet too, but its a little harder. You are supposed to brush the die in to get the full effect, but I never did that since you can get a pre-molded carpet brand new and in various colors for like $90 fom 50resto. I tried it on my seats, but then I decided why waste the time when I planned on getting some Corbeau's in the future.

On vinyl/plastic just use one base coat, not to thick with overlapping strokes. Let dry and finish off with a second finishing coat for full color. The dye has to properly dry for a few days before it completely soaks in though, otherwise it can still scratch off. So in otherwords if you reinstall the pieces soon, just be careful. The trick is, you must remember when using the dye is many light coasts over few thick coats. Its the key! Just get a can or two and practice on something before you do your own. I had plenty of junk interior pieces from my parts car to practice on so it turned out great when I was ready.

If anyone else goes this method and has any questions just give me a holla.
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Old 08-28-2004, 09:00 PM   #9
whitepony
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that VHT stuff sounds good do you know of anyother places that carrie it?
i from canada and it takes like 3 weeks to get stuff from summit and i need it asap.

but it sounds like great stuff

thanks

u got any pictures of it and your interior
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Old 08-29-2004, 07:52 AM   #10
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Heres one of my door panel, but thats all I have right now.
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File Type: jpg dpanel1.jpg (63.3 KB, 31 views)
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Old 08-29-2004, 07:52 AM   #11
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Heres one of my door panel, but thats all I have right now.
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File Type: jpg dpanel1.jpg (63.3 KB, 18 views)
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92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Aluminum Dished Pistons), Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK E.L. Headers, Flowmaster Cat-Back, MAC CAI, FMS Pulleys, Griffin Alum. Radiator, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 Lockup Converter, B & M Super Cooler, B&M Ratchet Shifter; 3:73 gears.
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