Installing A Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter

BowTie Eater 5 Liter · 12-29-2001, 04:42 PM

Ok, I just ordered my Steeda Tir-Ax shifter today, and have a few questions about installing it....

1)How long will it take?

2)How Hard Is It?(Will I need someone else's help?)

3)What tools do i need?

4)What other materials do i need???

Thanks For Your Time
Kris

Rick 91GT · 12-30-2001, 10:32 AM

Kris it is very easy...

First you will need I believe a 5/32" wrench to get the top plate off, which has the rubber seal around the shifter. It is a pain and tricky but with some patience it will not take long, there are 4 bolts, 2- towards the rear which are easy, and then 2- that are partially under the consol towards the radio.

Then you will need a 1/2" socket (Straight or swivel) a extension and a rachet. Take those 4 bolts off then tap on the shifter or use a small pry bar to pop it off the tranny. Then use a razor blade or scraper to remove all the old Permatex that is on the tranny(Make sure none falls in the tranny) then put a nice new bead of Permatex around the opening 1/8" Bead seems to work fine. Then just re-install the shifter with the 4- bolts and don't over torque them or you will crack the tranny. You may need to trim the rubber boot on the top plate to get it around the base of the Steeda, I had to for my Pro-5.0. Then adjust the shifter to make sure it goes into gear. You want the stop bolts to be about 1/8" away from the shifter while it is in gear so put it in 2nd and look at the bolt, then do the same thing in 3rd. Then re-install the top plate then slide the leather boot down the handle, snap it down and re-install the shifter handle.

This will be a mod you will really like it makes such a difference over that sloppy stock shifter. It may be a little noiser since it is so much more solid the valve train noise may be louder.

See Ya, Happy New Year,

Rick

Chevyguy · 12-30-2001, 09:48 PM

I used a tip that Car craft detailed on their 86. Get a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel, and cut away the console plastic that is blocking the two forward bolts that hold down the rubber boot. Obviously be carefull to avoid cutting any plastic that holds the leather boot in place. That trick saved a bunch of time.

Also be carefull with the boot, it's a pain to get a new one from ford, and if it gets torn up expect a big draft and tons of road noise

12-29-2001, 04:42 PM	#1
BowTie Eater 5 Liter Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World Posts: 871	Installing A Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Ok, I just ordered my Steeda Tir-Ax shifter today, and have a few questions about installing it.... 1)How long will it take? 2)How Hard Is It?(Will I need someone else's help?) 3)What tools do i need? 4)What other materials do i need??? Thanks For Your Time Kris __________________ 1984 Bronco II, 36" Michelin Military Tires, 95 EFI 5.0, NP435 Tranny, NP208 Doubler, NP205 Transfer Case, Fill Size Solid Dana 44 Front End, WH Progressive Rate Rock Crawling Coils, Bronco 8.8 Rear, Skyjacker Softride Leafs, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Locker. Final Crawl Ratio Of 175:1 88 GT Best 60ft. 2.181 Best ET 14.350 Best MPH 98.01 ~WRECKED!!!!~

12-30-2001, 10:32 AM	#2
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Kris it is very easy... First you will need I believe a 5/32" wrench to get the top plate off, which has the rubber seal around the shifter. It is a pain and tricky but with some patience it will not take long, there are 4 bolts, 2- towards the rear which are easy, and then 2- that are partially under the consol towards the radio. Then you will need a 1/2" socket (Straight or swivel) a extension and a rachet. Take those 4 bolts off then tap on the shifter or use a small pry bar to pop it off the tranny. Then use a razor blade or scraper to remove all the old Permatex that is on the tranny(Make sure none falls in the tranny) then put a nice new bead of Permatex around the opening 1/8" Bead seems to work fine. Then just re-install the shifter with the 4- bolts and don't over torque them or you will crack the tranny. You may need to trim the rubber boot on the top plate to get it around the base of the Steeda, I had to for my Pro-5.0. Then adjust the shifter to make sure it goes into gear. You want the stop bolts to be about 1/8" away from the shifter while it is in gear so put it in 2nd and look at the bolt, then do the same thing in 3rd. Then re-install the top plate then slide the leather boot down the handle, snap it down and re-install the shifter handle. This will be a mod you will really like it makes such a difference over that sloppy stock shifter. It may be a little noiser since it is so much more solid the valve train noise may be louder. See Ya, Happy New Year, Rick __________________ *D/R 10108 NMRA Drag Radial, 25.5 chassis, F1R* *Check out RNH Performance Performance Engines and Custom Fabrication.* *From Mild to Wild we can build what you want, when you want it.* FOR SALE Stainless Steel Torque Box Supports

12-30-2001, 09:48 PM	#3
Chevyguy Backyard Mechanic/Chemist Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Acton MA USA Posts: 435	I used a tip that Car craft detailed on their 86. Get a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel, and cut away the console plastic that is blocking the two forward bolts that hold down the rubber boot. Obviously be carefull to avoid cutting any plastic that holds the leather boot in place. That trick saved a bunch of time. Also be carefull with the boot, it's a pain to get a new one from ford, and if it gets torn up expect a big draft and tons of road noise __________________ 2001 Crown Vic Maurader Airbox/MAF, DR chip Edel IAS shocks Single exhaust :wtf: 93 P-71 Vic interceptor Backup car now 90 5.0 LX Notch SOLD 74 Chevy Laguna type S-3 454 under construction Currently apart undergoing bodywork.

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