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03-12-2004, 07:57 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 706
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Valve setting techniques...
I have to ask this b/c I set mine two days ago and I f*****d it up on number one. I have a 2 thousandths ding in my number one piston from the exhaust valve.
I think it's okay and poured fluid in the exhaust port of number 1 and it holds. Also the seat looks fine. Trick Flow instructions state 1/4 - 1/2 turn on the rocker stud nut of the closed valve after zero lash. Zero lash being when the instant you cannot twist the pushrod with your fingertips as it seats in the rocker. Then snug up the hex nut inside of roller rocker. Sound right? I go in order with marks on my balancer at TDC, 180*, then to 90*. From now on, I won't go past 1/8 of a turn on the rocker stud nut. Thanks...
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
03-12-2004, 11:42 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
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When the intake valve starts to close set the exhaust valve.
When the exhaust valve starts to open set the intake valve. Just go cylinder by cylinder and tighten the rocker till there is no up and down movement in the pushrod and then tighten the rocker 1/2 of a turn. This is the easiest way IMO. Do not tighten the rocker till you cant twist it with your finger. Carefully tighten the rocker till you get the up and down movement out of the pushrod. and the tighten the rocker 1/4-1 turn I tighten mine 1/2 of a turn.
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92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer |
03-13-2004, 08:40 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: westerville, OH USA
Posts: 618
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I usually twist and try to move it up/down until I fell the first bit of drag, then go 1/2 turn.
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1990 Notchback: BBK Ceramic Coated Full length headers, Dr. Gas 3"- 2 1/2" x-pipe, Flowmaster 40's/turndowns. |
03-13-2004, 09:59 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 706
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lifters...
Problem is my lifters won't pressurize. I primed them for several minutes and most of them came up. Nevertheless, I know I will have to reset them after running the motor for a few minutes. So getting that 1/8-1/4-1/2 turn seems sketchy to me.
I guess that is one thing solid lifter guys don't have to worry about. Thanks for the tips...
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
03-14-2004, 07:20 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Utica, Michigan
Posts: 2,631
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I agree with dark 5.0. That is the way I do it.
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1988 Mustang GT stock bottom 302, C4 10.9 @ 128 with 8 psi of Novi 1000 boost!----STOLEN 1989 Mustang notchback Warmed up 306 with a Procharger. |
03-14-2004, 07:39 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Rockford
Posts: 596
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That's the way I do it as well.
If your still having issues with the lifters not pumping up,...then those are your collapsed lifters. Now if they're your new lifters, then thats a different story. |
03-14-2004, 08:50 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 706
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a little death smoke...
Got it all buttoned up and it runs strong. Only thing is it will smoke lightly and I only noticed it b/c it fogged out my garage after idling for a few minutes. I don't know though, it might be a little fuel too. Hmmm. Any thoughts?
I checked the plugs and they look really good after running for over an hour. Right now I've got an hour and a half on it and it still smokes a hair. Thanks for the valve adjustment tips. I did it the way Dark said to do it and rotated the crank over a dozen times to make sure it all made sense, checking each valve. Still, I could only turn mine 1/8 to 1/4 w/o pushing down a little on the lifter, so that's what I did. Does the fact that I have 1.7 RR's have anything to do with that? Meaning that I might not want to turn as much as I would with a 1.6 b/c of the ratio. I guess that will mean a loose setup and possibly a little more valvetrain noise until I readjust. Thanks again guys.
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
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