VERY dissapointed with these 2....

Chris_H · 04-16-2001, 05:22 PM

Ok about 2 weeks ago I installed my Black Magic Electric fan. Today I put on my Stewart water pump to help with the cooling. I took it for a ride through the city with the A/C on and it still ran hot, even got up to about 230* on the autometer gauge. It's only about 90* outside today and will get much warmer thoughout the summer. Why is this thing still running so hot? I have a 180* thermostat in it. Anybody have any ideas as to what I can do to help with teh cooling besides an aluminum radiator? Any help is appreciated. Ohh also, I thought about going back to my stock waterpump pulley. Is that even going to help any?

Chris

------------------
1987 LX, rebuilt 306, Mac shorty headers 1 5/8, 2 1/2" Mac off road h-pipe, 2 1/2" 2 Chamber Flowmasters cat-back, Mac underdrive pullies, 3.55, K&N, Tremec 3550, King Cobra Clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax, Autometer gauges, White face gauges, blue silicone radiator hoses, Steeda Clutch Adjuster Kit.
Best times:
2.331 60ft, 9.966 @ 71.069 1/8 mile, 15.491 @ 91.846 1/4 mile at 4000 ft. elevation on street tires

Smokedawg · 04-16-2001, 05:40 PM

My 347stroker has been running upwards around 240 in 75 degree weather. That is with a perma-cool fan and 3core radiator. My uncle runs stock cars and he told me to cut the center out of my thermostat. So I did and now it runs 160-190. I love it!

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

Chris_H · 04-16-2001, 06:07 PM

Smokedawg, wouldn't that almost be the same as running without a thermostat in the car? I've heard good and bad things about doing that.

Chris

NO SLO PK · 04-16-2001, 06:29 PM

As an alternative, you could use a high flow 160 degree thermostat. Also, Redline Water Wetter and a 75%/25% water/antifreeze mix helps. An aluminum radiator helps, although a high efficiency brass/copper does have better thermal transfer properties. Get rid of the underdrive pulleys, if you are using them.

My 2cents.

------------------
Russ L
'91 LX
Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

FOROTA · 04-16-2001, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Chris_H:
Smokedawg, wouldn't that almost be the same as running without a thermostat in the car? I've heard good and bad things about doing that.

Chris

If you only cut out the center there is some restriction still to keep the water in the block a little longer. Might not be a real good idea if you still need a heater in the winter though.

Smokedawg · 04-16-2001, 06:45 PM

As FOROTA said. I did leave the outside so that there is restriction there. But I am S.O.L if I want heat in the winter. But this car wont get driven in the winter anyways

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

XOCHXXIII · 04-16-2001, 07:15 PM

I'D FOLLOW NO SLP POK'S ADVICE,I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY MUSTANG,SO I WENT AHEAD AND ISTALLED A 160 DEGREE THERMO AND FLUSHED THE RADIATOR,PRBOLEM SOLVED

Chris_H · 04-16-2001, 11:32 PM

Sounds like everybody is pretty much saying drop down on the thermostat. Will the 160* stat help keep the temp down, but at the same time not keep the car in open loop thinking its too cold? I've seen pictures of what running without a t-stat does with the oil sludge. Just don't want to be doing more harm one way than the other. Still kind of new at this game. Thanx for all the replies, anymore will be greatly appreciated.

Chris

Capri306 · 04-17-2001, 12:11 AM

I think that aluminum radiator is calling your name, dude. Did you wire the fan to run all the time the engine is on, or is it thermostatically controlled? Is it kicking on? I'm still wondering what condition your radiator is in. Sounds like a freakin' mess really. Even after driving at 130mph and then going straight into city traffic, I've never had a problem since replacing the radiator & fan clutch. You'd be really surprised what a new radiator can do. Good luck. Oh, and get a high-flow thermostat (Robert Shaw makes good ones).

------------------
Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online
1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73
1987 Mustang LX Notch

Chris_H · 04-17-2001, 12:39 AM

Capri, I am thinking the same thing with the radiator. Think you can convince the wife better than I can cause I sure need help with this one!! The radiator is less than 2 yrs old. It was replaced just before the motor was rebuilt. Had I known anything about the car at the time I probably would have gotten an aluminum one. Also, where can I pick up one of those Robert Shaw t-stats? Thanx for the reply.

Chris

shovelnose · 04-17-2001, 01:23 AM

I agree on the High flow thermostat. Pretty sure there wax filled. Work good. The stock wp pulley will help at low rpm.(they made the ud wp pulley to work the factory belt).

You didn't get the wrong direction wp by accident? Or a bad wp.

The only time I get to 230 is at the drags in the staging lanes. I have 190 stat, UD pulleys, electric fan(No shroud),stock rad and wp.

------------------
82 Mercury Capri 302.
Comp. Cams
Tremec 3550
3.73's
12.8@106 N/AKevin's Capri

2FastLX · 04-17-2001, 03:08 AM

I just redid my cooling system with a heavy duty radiator from Pep Boys ($120) and a Stewart high flow pump and a cheap @$$ Auto Zone electric fan. My car runs so cool now the needle barely moves.

You probably have a plugged radiator since everything else should be running up to par.

------------------
ICQ# 42269241
Indiana Stangers Association
Buy your parts here

Rick 91GT · 04-17-2001, 06:51 AM

Sounds like a radiator issue to me, I was running a Stewart pump, 180 thermo and a Flex fan and ran about 210 degrees, then I switched to the Ron Davis Racing radiator. After the install I needed to run a 195 thermo just to get the motor to run 180 degrees, which the stock EEC needs or it add fuel and retards timing. I just switched to a Perma Cool fan. I paid $269.00 for my Ron Davis through Tommie Vaughun or Downs FOrd also sells them.

------------------
Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!

Mach 1 · 04-17-2001, 07:47 AM

I had cooling issues in the past. I would switch to a 180 high flow stat, not a 160. I did this, along with the stewart water pump, fluidyne radiator, and the black magic (by the way, the black magic cools no better or worse than the stock fan),

You can get the high flow 180 from Sumitt or Auto Zone carries them also. I would go to auto zone because sumitt sent me the wrong one.

I had to go to an aluminum rad. I had a three core heavy duty copper/brass, and it just didnt do the job. I recommend the Fluidyne rad. Its bad a$$.

------------------
1993 GT/AOD
'93 Mustang GT

04-17-2001, 09:29 AM

One thing you guys forgot to mention, is if you have A/C or not. The original post was about the A/C being on and it heating up.

I have a 3 core Griffin alum rad, a black magic fan, brand new stock water pump, underdrive pulleys, 180 degree hi-flow t-stat, and A/C.

Car runs 180-185 even in the hottest conditions. But when you turn the A/C on my car slowly overheats. This would indicate either inadequate (sp?) fan cfm, or not enough flow, assuming the cooling system is in good shape.

I am going to try to take out the restrictor in the heater core lines, and see if that helps. I am also going to try the stock water pump pulley and possibly a high-flow water pump.

I currently run water wetter and 50/50 mix antifreeze. I will try these things soon as the weather gets hot. Temp just dropped into the 30's and its snowing right now.

I posted about this before, and got all kinds of helpful info, but not one person who posted had A/C and used it.

Jason

Chris_H · 04-17-2001, 10:16 AM

Well I have to admit that I did use some stop-leak in the radiator this past winter to try and fix the heater-core. Should I try to have the radiator flushed out real good? I do have the flow restrictor in the heater hose, but I didn't think that would make much of a difference. My thinking now is to flush this radiator and see if that helps. If not, time for a new radiator? I appreciate all the posts everybody has given me.

Chris

NO SLO PK · 04-17-2001, 10:34 AM

Stop Leak? I think it may have plugged your radiator. I've had bad luck with that stuff, perfonally.

About the T-stat, if you can get away with a 180 then it would be better than a 160. I have to use a 160 because by the time a 180 opens, it's too late, the engine gets hot and detonates.

You can order a hi-flow thermostat from Summit. They cost $8.95.

------------------
Russ L
'91 LX
Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

[This message has been edited by NO SLO PK (edited 04-17-2001).]

04-17-2001, 10:45 AM

If the AC is what is making U overheat U need a better fan more than a new Rad!!!. My car ran 210-240 with AC in the summer. 210-220 without AC. When i went with the Summit 4 core rad, my temps went down to 190-210 without AC and 190-220 with AC. Not being happy still, I had my stock fan come on at a lower temp and viola, it now runs b/n 170-195 with or without the AC.

------------------
TFS heads, Holley intake, AFM B-2 cam, 77mm MAF, 65mmTB, Bassani X-pipe with cats and Autologic custom chip. NOS dry kit, 80hp shot just installed.
Black SN95
13.8 @105mph NA
13.2 @112mph 80hp NOS
Wet track, running on NOS setting on NA runs (pig rich and 8 deg timing)

Chris_H · 04-17-2001, 01:07 PM

Wel I just replaced that stock fan and clutch with the Black Magic. Is that one not going to be enough to cool this thing off? 110* outside is too hot to not have a/c. Went the past 2 yrs without it. I almost bought the heavy duty fan and clutch, but opted for the black magic. Was that a mistake?

Chris

smokedchevy · 04-17-2001, 01:29 PM

IS your radiator in good condition? Try draining it and pouring water back in. It should go down without backing up. If it backs up and overflows then chugs to go down, it's probably plugged. Your radiator might just need to be reamed out. Mine did that and when I got it fixed it ran cool as winter.

04-16-2001, 05:22 PM	#1
Chris_H Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: New Mexico Posts: 488	VERY dissapointed with these 2.... Ok about 2 weeks ago I installed my Black Magic Electric fan. Today I put on my Stewart water pump to help with the cooling. I took it for a ride through the city with the A/C on and it still ran hot, even got up to about 230* on the autometer gauge. It's only about 90* outside today and will get much warmer thoughout the summer. Why is this thing still running so hot? I have a 180* thermostat in it. Anybody have any ideas as to what I can do to help with teh cooling besides an aluminum radiator? Any help is appreciated. Ohh also, I thought about going back to my stock waterpump pulley. Is that even going to help any? Chris ------------------ 1987 LX, rebuilt 306, Mac shorty headers 1 5/8, 2 1/2" Mac off road h-pipe, 2 1/2" 2 Chamber Flowmasters cat-back, Mac underdrive pullies, 3.55, K&N, Tremec 3550, King Cobra Clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax, Autometer gauges, White face gauges, blue silicone radiator hoses, Steeda Clutch Adjuster Kit. Best times: 2.331 60ft, 9.966 @ 71.069 1/8 mile, 15.491 @ 91.846 1/4 mile at 4000 ft. elevation on street tires

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04-16-2001, 05:40 PM	#2
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	My 347stroker has been running upwards around 240 in 75 degree weather. That is with a perma-cool fan and 3core radiator. My uncle runs stock cars and he told me to cut the center out of my thermostat. So I did and now it runs 160-190. I love it! ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

04-16-2001, 06:07 PM	#3
Chris_H Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: New Mexico Posts: 488	Smokedawg, wouldn't that almost be the same as running without a thermostat in the car? I've heard good and bad things about doing that. Chris

04-16-2001, 06:29 PM	#4
NO SLO PK Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Arcadia, CA, USA Posts: 731	As an alternative, you could use a high flow 160 degree thermostat. Also, Redline Water Wetter and a 75%/25% water/antifreeze mix helps. An aluminum radiator helps, although a high efficiency brass/copper does have better thermal transfer properties. Get rid of the underdrive pulleys, if you are using them. My 2cents. ------------------ Russ L '91 LX Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

04-16-2001, 06:45 PM	#6
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	As FOROTA said. I did leave the outside so that there is restriction there. But I am S.O.L if I want heat in the winter. But this car wont get driven in the winter anyways ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

04-16-2001, 07:15 PM	#7
XOCHXXIII Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: BRIGHTON,CO USA Posts: 6	I'D FOLLOW NO SLP POK'S ADVICE,I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY MUSTANG,SO I WENT AHEAD AND ISTALLED A 160 DEGREE THERMO AND FLUSHED THE RADIATOR,PRBOLEM SOLVED

04-16-2001, 11:32 PM	#8
Chris_H Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: New Mexico Posts: 488	Sounds like everybody is pretty much saying drop down on the thermostat. Will the 160* stat help keep the temp down, but at the same time not keep the car in open loop thinking its too cold? I've seen pictures of what running without a t-stat does with the oil sludge. Just don't want to be doing more harm one way than the other. Still kind of new at this game. Thanx for all the replies, anymore will be greatly appreciated. Chris

04-17-2001, 12:11 AM	#9
Capri306 Moderator Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 1,001	I think that aluminum radiator is calling your name, dude. Did you wire the fan to run all the time the engine is on, or is it thermostatically controlled? Is it kicking on? I'm still wondering what condition your radiator is in. Sounds like a freakin' mess really. Even after driving at 130mph and then going straight into city traffic, I've never had a problem since replacing the radiator & fan clutch. You'd be really surprised what a new radiator can do. Good luck. Oh, and get a high-flow thermostat (Robert Shaw makes good ones). ------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch

04-17-2001, 12:39 AM	#10
Chris_H Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: New Mexico Posts: 488	Capri, I am thinking the same thing with the radiator. Think you can convince the wife better than I can cause I sure need help with this one!! The radiator is less than 2 yrs old. It was replaced just before the motor was rebuilt. Had I known anything about the car at the time I probably would have gotten an aluminum one. Also, where can I pick up one of those Robert Shaw t-stats? Thanx for the reply. Chris

04-17-2001, 01:23 AM	#11
shovelnose Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 234	I agree on the High flow thermostat. Pretty sure there wax filled. Work good. The stock wp pulley will help at low rpm.(they made the ud wp pulley to work the factory belt). You didn't get the wrong direction wp by accident? Or a bad wp. The only time I get to 230 is at the drags in the staging lanes. I have 190 stat, UD pulleys, electric fan(No shroud),stock rad and wp. ------------------ 82 Mercury Capri 302. Comp. Cams Tremec 3550 3.73's 12.8@106 N/AKevin's Capri

04-17-2001, 03:08 AM	#12
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	I just redid my cooling system with a heavy duty radiator from Pep Boys ($120) and a Stewart high flow pump and a cheap @$$ Auto Zone electric fan. My car runs so cool now the needle barely moves. You probably have a plugged radiator since everything else should be running up to par. ------------------ ICQ# 42269241 Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here

04-17-2001, 06:51 AM	#13
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Sounds like a radiator issue to me, I was running a Stewart pump, 180 thermo and a Flex fan and ran about 210 degrees, then I switched to the Ron Davis Racing radiator. After the install I needed to run a 195 thermo just to get the motor to run 180 degrees, which the stock EEC needs or it add fuel and retards timing. I just switched to a Perma Cool fan. I paid $269.00 for my Ron Davis through Tommie Vaughun or Downs FOrd also sells them. ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!

04-17-2001, 07:47 AM	#14
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	I had cooling issues in the past. I would switch to a 180 high flow stat, not a 160. I did this, along with the stewart water pump, fluidyne radiator, and the black magic (by the way, the black magic cools no better or worse than the stock fan), You can get the high flow 180 from Sumitt or Auto Zone carries them also. I would go to auto zone because sumitt sent me the wrong one. I had to go to an aluminum rad. I had a three core heavy duty copper/brass, and it just didnt do the job. I recommend the Fluidyne rad. Its bad a$$. ------------------ 1993 GT/AOD '93 Mustang GT

04-17-2001, 09:29 AM	#15
88GT5.013.02 Guest Posts: n/a	One thing you guys forgot to mention, is if you have A/C or not. The original post was about the A/C being on and it heating up. I have a 3 core Griffin alum rad, a black magic fan, brand new stock water pump, underdrive pulleys, 180 degree hi-flow t-stat, and A/C. Car runs 180-185 even in the hottest conditions. But when you turn the A/C on my car slowly overheats. This would indicate either inadequate (sp?) fan cfm, or not enough flow, assuming the cooling system is in good shape. I am going to try to take out the restrictor in the heater core lines, and see if that helps. I am also going to try the stock water pump pulley and possibly a high-flow water pump. I currently run water wetter and 50/50 mix antifreeze. I will try these things soon as the weather gets hot. Temp just dropped into the 30's and its snowing right now. I posted about this before, and got all kinds of helpful info, but not one person who posted had A/C and used it. Jason

04-17-2001, 10:16 AM	#16
Chris_H Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: New Mexico Posts: 488	Well I have to admit that I did use some stop-leak in the radiator this past winter to try and fix the heater-core. Should I try to have the radiator flushed out real good? I do have the flow restrictor in the heater hose, but I didn't think that would make much of a difference. My thinking now is to flush this radiator and see if that helps. If not, time for a new radiator? I appreciate all the posts everybody has given me. Chris

04-17-2001, 10:34 AM	#17
NO SLO PK Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Arcadia, CA, USA Posts: 731	Stop Leak? I think it may have plugged your radiator. I've had bad luck with that stuff, perfonally. About the T-stat, if you can get away with a 180 then it would be better than a 160. I have to use a 160 because by the time a 180 opens, it's too late, the engine gets hot and detonates. You can order a hi-flow thermostat from Summit. They cost $8.95. ------------------ Russ L '91 LX Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles. [This message has been edited by NO SLO PK (edited 04-17-2001).]

04-17-2001, 10:45 AM	#18
blkrain Guest Posts: n/a	If the AC is what is making U overheat U need a better fan more than a new Rad!!!. My car ran 210-240 with AC in the summer. 210-220 without AC. When i went with the Summit 4 core rad, my temps went down to 190-210 without AC and 190-220 with AC. Not being happy still, I had my stock fan come on at a lower temp and viola, it now runs b/n 170-195 with or without the AC. ------------------ TFS heads, Holley intake, AFM B-2 cam, 77mm MAF, 65mmTB, Bassani X-pipe with cats and Autologic custom chip. NOS dry kit, 80hp shot just installed. Black SN95 13.8 @105mph NA 13.2 @112mph 80hp NOS Wet track, running on NOS setting on NA runs (pig rich and 8 deg timing)

04-17-2001, 01:07 PM	#19
Chris_H Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: New Mexico Posts: 488	Wel I just replaced that stock fan and clutch with the Black Magic. Is that one not going to be enough to cool this thing off? 110* outside is too hot to not have a/c. Went the past 2 yrs without it. I almost bought the heavy duty fan and clutch, but opted for the black magic. Was that a mistake? Chris

04-17-2001, 01:29 PM	#20
smokedchevy Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: ventura,CA Posts: 438	IS your radiator in good condition? Try draining it and pouring water back in. It should go down without backing up. If it backs up and overflows then chugs to go down, it's probably plugged. Your radiator might just need to be reamed out. Mine did that and when I got it fixed it ran cool as winter.