voltage problems

Conman · 09-15-2002, 09:53 PM

well I just went to return a movie, it's dark out so I needed the lights on.
The stock meter in the top left (is it amps or volts?) was just over the red. The amps idiot light was fading in and out, it wasn't sure if it wanted to be on or not. Anyways turning the lights on and off made no difference. I have a half decent stereo and it still pounded nicely (I only turned it up to test the system) So I went and returned the movie and when I got back I shut the car off and it started right back up again (it was a couple kilometers that I drove)

The only problems I noticed was the guage and a lack of power at higher RPM's. It basically felt like the timing was set at about 2° BTDC.

charging system seemed to be working fine

what could this be?
thanks for the help guys

zepherman · 09-16-2002, 12:39 AM

Are you still having this problem? Check the connections on your alternator, and the battery. Check the voltage on your battery, if its lower than 12.3v then you should charge it. If it drops again, you might have a problem with your charging system.

93GTDIN · 09-16-2002, 12:57 AM

turn your car on, hook a DVOM up to your battery, if it reads 14.5+ volts you are fine. If not, alternator time!

i didn't mean that to rhyme it just sort of happened.

cyberstang5.0 · 09-16-2002, 07:21 AM

I did this upgrade to my Fox and it runs beautiful. No more voltage issues for me.

http://www.racesystems.com/3gproj/index.htm

Conman · 09-16-2002, 01:43 PM

well with the car off I have 12.5V at the battery
with it running 12.2V
All of the wiring looks ok
Is there an easy way to make sure it is the alternator and not a problem somewhere in the wiring

Another question, I have a bad loss of power at upper RPM's which is understandable
How do those guys that take off their belt while drag racing have enough power to run the engine to it's full potential?

cyberstang5.0 · 09-16-2002, 01:48 PM

some ppl don't need a belt for drag racing... it's only to run your accessories, like A/C, power sterring, and water pump. If you don't have those things, the you don't need them

You should be getting 14 vlots when the car is running. Take your alternator to an autoparts store and have them test it.

Conman · 09-16-2002, 02:00 PM

I know that you only need a belt for accessories but isn't the alternator an accessory, how do they get 14 volts with out an alternator running?

cyberstang5.0 · 09-16-2002, 02:02 PM

You only need voltage for the ignition system... and a battery will do the job. You just need an alternator to charge it up over time. One trip down the stirp won't kill the battery

Mustang_289 · 09-16-2002, 07:17 PM

If you've got less than 14 volts across the battery while car is idling normally it's the alt. If this is the original alt in your car it's time to change. You say you've got a 1/2 decent stereo I would recommend upgrading to a 130A alt - so your charging and stereo have plenty of DC go-go juice

Conman · 09-16-2002, 08:40 PM

well I took the alt to a parts store and had them test it and it is pooched

now the dilema, the stock 75 amp is $132 and the 94+ 130 amp is $322 (these are canadian prices) I can't really afford the 130 right now
I think I'll look around at a few bone yards tomorrow

If I can find one, what markings are there on a 130A that will positively identify it as such?

Mustang_289 · 09-17-2002, 06:25 AM

Check ebay as well. PA-PERFORMANCE has a 3G 130A alt for $199 US dollars. This alt comes with a lifetime warranty - if it goes bad they'll send you another.

Conman · 09-17-2002, 01:35 PM

well I replaced the alternator today, along with the voltage regulator on the back of it and it made no difference to my problems

would it be the wiring somewhere or maybe a fuseable link

RPM427 · 09-17-2002, 02:32 PM

I bought a rebiult 3G for my car with a defective voltage regulator. It fried itself and my battery. I have the stock one back on thier now, but it is barely doing the job. Does anyone sell a rebiuld kit for the 3G?

It was only used for about 200 miles. It just needs the internals. I don't want to spend more money on a new one.

Conman · 09-17-2002, 02:56 PM

I think I found my problem

There are some big problems with the wiring going to the starter relay, someone that had the car before me had some problems too and that is the worst fix-it job I have ever seen. He soldered in some new section of wire and in his solder job I could see chunks of solder wire that haden't even started to melt. One wire is completly broken and just cutting out bad sections I completly broke another wire that was hanging on by a thread.

hope this fixes it

09-15-2002, 09:53 PM	#1
Conman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 351	voltage problems well I just went to return a movie, it's dark out so I needed the lights on. The stock meter in the top left (is it amps or volts?) was just over the red. The amps idiot light was fading in and out, it wasn't sure if it wanted to be on or not. Anyways turning the lights on and off made no difference. I have a half decent stereo and it still pounded nicely (I only turned it up to test the system) So I went and returned the movie and when I got back I shut the car off and it started right back up again (it was a couple kilometers that I drove) The only problems I noticed was the guage and a lack of power at higher RPM's. It basically felt like the timing was set at about 2° BTDC. charging system seemed to be working fine what could this be? thanks for the help guys __________________ '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care.

09-16-2002, 12:39 AM	#2
zepherman Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Oklahoma City OK USA Posts: 236	Are you still having this problem? Check the connections on your alternator, and the battery. Check the voltage on your battery, if its lower than 12.3v then you should charge it. If it drops again, you might have a problem with your charging system. __________________ 90 GT 25th Anni. Did the AOD to T-5 swap, SPEC clutch, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, BBK 2½ inch off-road H pipe, Flows, BBK 70mm TB/EGR, Ford Racing aluminim driveshaft, 3.55's, welded subframes, Ram Air, 3 core radiator, NOS dry kit 75 shot, and a K&N filter. 12.9 @ 108

09-16-2002, 12:57 AM	#3
93GTDIN Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Live music capital of the world, TX Posts: 324	turn your car on, hook a DVOM up to your battery, if it reads 14.5+ volts you are fine. If not, alternator time! i didn't mean that to rhyme it just sort of happened. __________________ 96 Cobra - a bit too stock. 14.0 @ 101

09-16-2002, 01:43 PM	#5
Conman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 351	well with the car off I have 12.5V at the battery with it running 12.2V All of the wiring looks ok Is there an easy way to make sure it is the alternator and not a problem somewhere in the wiring Another question, I have a bad loss of power at upper RPM's which is understandable How do those guys that take off their belt while drag racing have enough power to run the engine to it's full potential? __________________ '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care.

09-16-2002, 02:00 PM	#7
Conman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 351	I know that you only need a belt for accessories but isn't the alternator an accessory, how do they get 14 volts with out an alternator running? __________________ '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care.

09-16-2002, 07:21 AM	#4
cyberstang5.0 347ci of HORSE POWER!!! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,416	I did this upgrade to my Fox and it runs beautiful. No more voltage issues for me. http://www.racesystems.com/3gproj/index.htm

09-16-2002, 01:48 PM	#6
cyberstang5.0 347ci of HORSE POWER!!! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,416	some ppl don't need a belt for drag racing... it's only to run your accessories, like A/C, power sterring, and water pump. If you don't have those things, the you don't need them You should be getting 14 vlots when the car is running. Take your alternator to an autoparts store and have them test it.

09-16-2002, 02:02 PM	#8
cyberstang5.0 347ci of HORSE POWER!!! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,416	You only need voltage for the ignition system... and a battery will do the job. You just need an alternator to charge it up over time. One trip down the stirp won't kill the battery

09-16-2002, 07:17 PM	#9
Mustang_289 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Posts: 512	If you've got less than 14 volts across the battery while car is idling normally it's the alt. If this is the original alt in your car it's time to change. You say you've got a 1/2 decent stereo I would recommend upgrading to a 130A alt - so your charging and stereo have plenty of DC go-go juice

09-16-2002, 08:40 PM	#10
Conman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 351	well I took the alt to a parts store and had them test it and it is pooched now the dilema, the stock 75 amp is $132 and the 94+ 130 amp is $322 (these are canadian prices) I can't really afford the 130 right now I think I'll look around at a few bone yards tomorrow If I can find one, what markings are there on a 130A that will positively identify it as such? __________________ '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care.

09-17-2002, 06:25 AM	#11
Mustang_289 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Posts: 512	Check ebay as well. PA-PERFORMANCE has a 3G 130A alt for $199 US dollars. This alt comes with a lifetime warranty - if it goes bad they'll send you another.

09-17-2002, 01:35 PM	#12
Conman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 351	well I replaced the alternator today, along with the voltage regulator on the back of it and it made no difference to my problems would it be the wiring somewhere or maybe a fuseable link __________________ '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care.

09-17-2002, 02:32 PM	#13
RPM427 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Huntington NY Posts: 573	I bought a rebiult 3G for my car with a defective voltage regulator. It fried itself and my battery. I have the stock one back on thier now, but it is barely doing the job. Does anyone sell a rebiuld kit for the 3G? It was only used for about 200 miles. It just needs the internals. I don't want to spend more money on a new one. __________________ -1993 Mustang, 900rwhp 03-04 cobra based 4v swap, full Griggs setup, project underway -1994 Ranger w/ 427cid windsor (daily beater) check it out!

09-17-2002, 02:56 PM	#14
Conman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 351	I think I found my problem There are some big problems with the wiring going to the starter relay, someone that had the car before me had some problems too and that is the worst fix-it job I have ever seen. He soldered in some new section of wire and in his solder job I could see chunks of solder wire that haden't even started to melt. One wire is completly broken and just cutting out bad sections I completly broke another wire that was hanging on by a thread. hope this fixes it __________________ '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care.

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