What fuel pump to run on a mostly stock motor?

[Chevyguy]

My original pump is working fine, but I am considering replacing it before it fails, the car has 112K and 11 years on it. I am trying to replace shot original stuff with at least moderately upgraded stuff as I go along. So I am pondering a in tank replacment pump, and the higher flow units seem like a no brainer, but will I need a new FPR, will this work fine with the stock 19# injectors and MAF?? I would like to step up to a 65mm TB, possibly a used unit, any spares around?? Eh, maybe in the spring.

Next Mod..... MAC 2.5" cat back system
After I sell the 88 Notch 4 banger

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Frank W
90 5.0 LX coupe Daily driver. Silencer removed, K&N filter. Flexalite fan, 3 core radiator. FMS flywheel and Clutch, FMS blue wires Energy Suspension end links
88 Notch 2.3L 5 speed Parts/beater car My two Notchbacks

74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 Finally fixed getting a 454 to put in garage
<A HREF="http://www.chevellepages.com/folingo" TARGET=_blank>www.chevellepages.

[andy669]

A friend of mine has a good BBK 155LPH, he wants $50 for it. You wont need an AFPR. Check out fleebay, im sure theres some on there.
andy


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3 Black 94 GT Vert. AODE/TKO conversion, 3:73's, ported X-305's, GT40 manifolds, 75mm TB, 30lbers, PMS, 300 horse Top Gun wet kit, and all the other little stuff

[Rick 91GT]

Get a 255lph from the beginning, a bigger pump will not hurt a thing then you will not be replacing it in a few years for a larger one. You can get a 255lph from Jd'S Performance www.jdsperformance.com for $100. Tell Dave, Rick sent ya

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Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!
[b]12.16 @ 113.5, 1.78 60ft..no traction in the 90 degree

I'd agree w/ Rick.....go w/ the biggest you can/want right from the start (when it comes to the FP that is) so you're not swapping it out 2-3 x's later on. Either 190 or 255 would be the right choices.....depends how far you think you'll be getting into this game!

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'90 LX 5.0;12K original miles (no sh*&);3.55 gears; March pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads;BBK 1 5/8" equal length shorties;MSD 6AL ignition w/ blaster 2 coil;FMS E303 cam;Pro-M 75mm MAF;BBK 70mm TB; Eibach drag-launch spring kit;Southside welded subs;9" K&N cone filter charger;Hurst shifter;Cervini's 3" turbo hood;A/C delete; gutted cats;2 chamber Flomasters;Corbeau racing seats;FMS 30# injectors;JMS chip; Holley 190lb fp;TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113 - 1.78 60')

[Chevyguy]

Cool website (JDS) With only $10 between the 190 and 255 LPH makes the larger one seem better. Won't that just cycle alot more fuel throught the stock FPR and return line?? If there really is no drawback guess get the big gun.

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Frank W
90 5.0 LX coupe Daily driver. Silencer removed, K&N filter. Flexalite fan, 3 core radiator. FMS flywheel and Clutch, FMS blue wires Energy Suspension end links
88 Notch 2.3L 5 speed Parts/beater car My two Notchbacks

74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 Finally fixed getting a 454 to put in garage
<A HREF="http://www.chevellepages.com/folingo" TARGET=_blank>www.chevellepages.

[1BAD89]

It won't flow anymore fuel than the stocker, until you get the FPR.

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1989 GT, 3:55's, full exhaust, 4 in. hood, Pro 5.0, Have many other parts 4 sale. All parts for sale now.

2000 Camaro SS-A4, 13.7's bone stock.

1989 Chevy S-10, EX. Cab-383(500+hp on motor), trick flow heads, trick flow pistons, etc... autometer phantom gauges, "built" 700R4, roll cage, lexan back window, corbeau seats, R.H.S. 5 harnesses, Fuel cell, convo pro wheels, 15x14's with 29x18.5 M/T'S on back, 15x4's on front, nitrous, and so much more!

[elma22]

Once i stumbled upon an article in which the guy also went with a 255 pump on a stock motor. As a result his car wouldn't start as fast as it did before. As it turns out the fuel pump created too much pressure even for the stock FRP and was flooding his system, which resulted in poor starts. I just purchased a 155L fuel pump for my car.
Good luck.

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[Unit 5302]

The 255 will create additional strain on the fuel pressure regulator. It will also create hot running conditions on the pump itself, making it more prone to premature failure. Mostly due to the stock fuel system being unable to flow the 255lph properly, thus creating more resistance to the pump in the lines. This would especially be the case when the tank is low on fuel. Extra heat from the pump working harder, along with low fuel that isn't cooling the pump properly could significantly shorten the life of the pump. There is also an additional drain on your electrical system. Not a big deal, but it's there.

They did an article on this years ago in Muscle Mustang and Fast Fords.

By the way, the stock 88lph-92lph pump will safely support about 260hp. A 110lph for up to about 300hp, 155 will allow you to do over 400hp, and a 190lph should be okay for 500. Now that's all naturally aspirated, if you go forced induction, you may want a little more.

[dinomite]

unit makes a good point, think about how far you ar gonna go first. i'd say get a 110 or 155, it'll do ya just fine.

[Chevyguy]

Thanks Guys, my knowledge of physics led me to question the 255lph pump in my app.

The 155 sounds like a good compromise

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Frank W
90 5.0 LX coupe Daily driver. Silencer removed, K&N filter. Flexalite fan, 3 core radiator. FMS flywheel and Clutch, FMS blue wires Energy Suspension end links
88 Notch 2.3L 5 speed Parts/beater car My two Notchbacks

74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 Finally fixed getting a 454 to put in garage
<A HREF="http://www.chevellepages.com/folingo" TARGET=_blank>www.chevellepages.

[Unit 5302]

The 155lph pump will support all but the gnarliest N/A combos on a 302. I would probably get it just because it's easier to shop for than the sometimes hard to find 110, and it is usually cheaper when I've looked.

[Rick 91GT]

Unit- I never took into consideration about the heat and strain on the 255lph with the stock system. Thanks for calling me on that

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Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!
[b]12.16 @ 113.5, 1.78 60ft..no traction in the 90 degree

[87horsepower]

Originally posted by Unit 5302:
The 255 will create additional strain on the fuel pressure regulator. It will also create hot running conditions on the pump itself, making it more prone to premature failure. Mostly due to the stock fuel system being unable to flow the 255lph properly, thus creating more resistance to the pump in the lines. This would especially be the case when the tank is low on fuel. Extra heat from the pump working harder, along with low fuel that isn't cooling the pump properly could significantly shorten the life of the pump. There is also an additional drain on your electrical system. Not a big deal, but it's there.

They did an article on this years ago in Muscle Mustang and Fast Fords.

By the way, the stock 88lph-92lph pump will safely support about 260hp. A 110lph for up to about 300hp, 155 will allow you to do over 400hp, and a 190lph should be okay for 500. Now that's all naturally aspirated, if you go forced induction, you may want a little more.

Exactly, stick with the 155LPH. If you need bigger later on they are cheap enough.