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10-11-2002, 12:57 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2
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Maybe buying a 94 GT, need help.
OK, guys I need some help here. I currently own a (cough) Chevy Camaro, and am looking at buying a mustang GT. I have found a GT in my price range and with decent mileage(62,250). The only downer is the color(rasberry). What I need help on is what should I look for on the engine to see if the engine is in good shape. Also tell me what is normal wear and what isn't.
It's not that I am dumb and don't know what to look for, it's more not being familar with the engine.. If this car doesn't pan out, the info may help me for other cars. So any help would be cool. |
10-11-2002, 04:18 PM | #2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Altoona, PA
Posts: 336
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You may have a better response if you ask in a 94-95 specific section which this site does not have. These two sites do though...
http://www.corral.net http://www.stangnet.com I don't know if you were told wrong or what, but strawberry red wasn't avail. on 94-95's, they were avail in vibrant red, rio red, and laser red.
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-Paul Dec '04 5.0 Mustang and Super Fords Magazine Featured Car 1995 NA GT CONVERTIBLE BEST PASS TO DATE: 12.19 at 112.51 AFR's, FTI cam, edelbrock intake, EEC TUNER and all the bolt ons on the stock shortblock. http://www.angelfire.com/pa2/killercanary |
10-11-2002, 10:43 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Macomb IL
Posts: 42
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Well, Just having bought a 94 gt recently... I would say for one don't do what i did and not check for oil leaks... The kid never told me that it had a rear main leak. Which i fixed along with the clutch. I still got it cheap enough i didn't care though.
Also take it for a test drive and burn the tires once to make sure both tires are spinning which will mean your clutch in the rear end isn't out. Put some rpms too it too... Make sure you don't hear knocking or noises that you know shouldn't be there. Visually inspect the whole engine for any sorta flued leaks along with the underneath. Some are easily fixable but some are a pain in the ***. And also after just running it sorta hard just sorta smell for anything not right. Also make sure it idels well... make sure it goes down when its warmed up too between .6 and .9 rpms. Then also check if there is even tire where, and when test driving it put the breaks sharply on and make sure that it doesn't pull too hard one way or the other. Everything is fixable to an extent, but this will give you an idea of what you will be looking at fixing soon. And whether or not its a deal. Sorry if it sounds to babyish.
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94 GT (Full length headers, Off Road H Pipe and Flowmasters) MSD Ignition, 75 shot nitrous, cold air induction. 65mm t.b. pulleys and 3:73 gears. everything else STOCK!! 60' = 2.04; 1/4 = 13.9 on street tires dynoed with 87 octane at 240hp 310 lb torch w/out nitrous. Its a pooch but im working on it. |
10-12-2002, 10:27 AM | #4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Kamloops, BC
Posts: 2,875
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I can't really think of too much specific on the 94-95 GT's. They are easy to work on if there is a problem. When buying used there is always a risk of a problem, right?
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