MustangWorks.com - The Ford Mustang Power Source!

Go Back   MustangWorks.com : Ford Forums > Mustang & Ford Tech > Windsor Power
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices


Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 11-24-2002, 08:31 PM   #1
93calcobra
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: sacramento california
Posts: 97
Default what weight oil to use for a 302 foxbody

got a foxbody which is the best weight oil to use some say 10w30 10w40 20w50 which is best? block only has about 20k on it
__________________
1993 red cobra
1999 ford lightning
1999 bmw 3m
2003 lincoln ls
93calcobra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2002, 09:11 PM   #2
82 GT
Import Slayer
 
82 GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
Default

It all depends on climate IMO. Since you you don't experience winters like I do here in Pa. then I would use 10w-30 or 10w40
20w-50 is for racing and very hot climates and a lot of stop/go driving.
__________________
'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.
82 GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2002, 10:36 PM   #3
MEDIK418
Registered Member
 
MEDIK418's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA
Posts: 780
Default

We run full synthetic in all the Mustangs at this house. 5w-30 in the winter ( and it does get cold here) and 10w-30 in the summer. I run Mobile 1 in me and Maw's vehicles and the boys both run Syntec in thier cars. I know, I probably just started a small war about synthetic vs. petroleum but this is what we use and it works to keep peace of mind.
__________________
1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet.
Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer.
MEDIK418 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2002, 11:50 PM   #4
MidNiteBlu 5.0
I got something to say
 
MidNiteBlu 5.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,557
Default

i use 10w30. I dont use synthetic cause my car has 100,000 miles on it hehe
__________________
91 LX Hatch 5.0 - made for the twisties
89 LX Hatchback 5.0 5spd. stolen/stripped 4/7/05
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?3494
1987 Toyota Pickup
Ricer Haters Club Member #33

Want a custom gauge cluster for your Vintage Mustang?
www.jmeenterprises.com
MidNiteBlu 5.0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2002, 01:31 AM   #5
skiwesser
Registered Member
 
skiwesser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
Default

Should I not put synthetic oil in a high milage car?
I was just about to.
__________________
88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306.

DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ
skiwesser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2002, 09:28 AM   #6
lx5091
Registered Member
 
lx5091's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Fall River, MA
Posts: 467
Default

I've always run Mobil1 in everything I have. This has never caused any problems for me. I currently have 105K on the odometer. I change it at around 6000 miles, because it always has a lot of surfactant to it still and this is when it tends to start getting dirty. You want to change your oil when it gets dirty, because all oils are good enough these days to go 20K and still be slick, the problem is the detergents suck up the dirt in your engine and once they have captured as much dirt as they can then the dirt that cannot be "captured" by the detergents will float around in the engine and start to cause damage. When your oil gets dark it's time to change it, and I find that I can usually go 6K between changes using Mobil1.
__________________
'02 Explorer XLT 4.0L --Nice Vehicle

'97 Saturn SL1--Soon to be ditched for a Ford!
lx5091 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 12:03 AM   #7
Mach 1
Registered Member
 
Mach 1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
Default

I just switched to Mobil 1 0W-30 in my truck. Good stuff. Flows faster, better gas mileage, same great protection..
__________________
2002 GT
1993 GT (SOLD)
'93 Mustang GT
RHC member #142
Mach 1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 12:32 AM   #8
MEDIK418
Registered Member
 
MEDIK418's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA
Posts: 780
Default

THere was an argument years ago and I suppose it still surfaces now and again that synthetic oil in an old engine would all of a sudden cause multitudes of oil leaks. The argument was perpetrated mostly by people who didn't want to spring for the expensive stuff in an old car and needed an excuse not to do so. I suppose if you had a leak it might get worse, the stuff does flow better but, I've never seen this and I am running it in an engine with 186,000 miles on it right now.

True, running synthetic now after lots of miles won't undo any damage that's already been done and by no means am I asserting that petroleum based oils will damage an engine, I simply mean mileage is mileage, more miles means more wear, no matter which oil you run. However, starting life anew with synthetic oil in an old engine certainly won't hurt anything and perhaps (and I believe it will) it will last even longer than it would have otherwise. I say go for it.
__________________
1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet.
Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer.
MEDIK418 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 04:05 AM   #9
Mach 1
Registered Member
 
Mach 1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
Default

Anybody else using 0W-30?
__________________
2002 GT
1993 GT (SOLD)
'93 Mustang GT
RHC member #142
Mach 1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 07:14 AM   #10
95mustanggt
Registered Member
 
95mustanggt's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Kamloops, BC
Posts: 2,875
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by MEDIK418
...( and it does get cold here) ...
COLD in Texas?!? When I lived in Dallas the parka's and mits came out at 55 degrees and every thing just about shut down at 32 degrees. Crap, I'll go out with just a T'shirt for quick erans (sp?) until 0-10 degrees!


Quote:
Originally posted by Mach 1
Anybody else using 0W-30?
I don't, but where I'm from a lot of people do. In moy opinion, a good synthetic 5 weight is good enough for most of Southern Canada and the USA. People startedt o switch over to 0 weight oil once the temperature dropped below -30 to -35 degrees C. And even then, I found a good synthetic 5 weight was decent until that temperature. When you daily "high" (that's when the sun comes out and is beating down on you) only hits -35 or -40 you should switch.
__________________
1995 Mustang GT

20016 F150 Lariat Super Crew
95mustanggt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 01:16 PM   #11
Mach 1
Registered Member
 
Mach 1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by 95mustanggt
COLD
I don't, but where I'm from a lot of people do. In moy opinion, a good synthetic 5 weight is good enough for most of Southern Canada and the USA. People startedt o switch over to 0 weight oil once the temperature dropped below -30 to -35 degrees C. And even then, I found a good synthetic 5 weight was decent until that temperature. When you daily "high" (that's when the sun comes out and is beating down on you) only hits -35 or -40 you should switch.
My trucks owner manual calls for 10w-30 or 5w-30 when very cold, as most cars today recommend the same weight oil.

However, my truck has a TSB (technical service bullutin) issued by the manufacture for a "valve train noise" problem caused by overhead cam engine and hydraulic valve lifters getting air stuck in them and not bleeding out properly or quick enough after startup.

The TSB says to use "mobil 1 0w-30" even though the manual calls for 10w-30, and that it still provides all the protection needed as 10w-30 with the additional benefits of faster flow when the engine is cold.

food for thought, as cold start up wear is the major cause of engine wear.
__________________
2002 GT
1993 GT (SOLD)
'93 Mustang GT
RHC member #142
Mach 1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 01:39 PM   #12
2FastLX
The Photoshop Guru
 
2FastLX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mecca, Indiana
Posts: 1,419
Default

I switched to Mobile 1 tri-synthetic oil after 135,000 miles and never developed one leak. But then again it never had any leaks before I switched. But I agree with Medic. If you have a leak already it will probably get worse.

There is also a slight performance gain to be had with synthetic oils. I saw an article where they gained 8rwhp by switching all the fluids to synthetic. That's not a lot, but every little bit helps.

Another benefit is the cleaning power of the Mobile 1 oil. I religeously changed my oil every 3000 miles with the petroleum based oil. When I pulled my valve covers there was a slight film of sludge. I switched to Mobile 1 and ran for around 5 more oil changes or so (at 4000-5000 miles between each oil change) then had to pull my heads to replace the head gaskets. To my amazement when I pulled the valve covers they looked like a brand new set of heads. Not a spec of sludge to be found anywhere. Even the lifter valley looked like a freshly cleaned block. I was very impressed and now swear by this stuff. It may be more expensive, but to me it's one of the best things you can do for your engine...high mileage or not.

Another thing that I think may have helped though is I was running the K&N oil filters. The oil seemed to stay clean longer when I swicthed to them.
__________________
Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels.

"The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance."
Griggs Racing


ICQ# 42269241
2FastLX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 02:14 PM   #13
bottlebaby91
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 141
Default

I have seen dyno test that there is a 3-5 rwhp lose using sythetic on mildly built 5 litres, but you cant believe everything you read.
bottlebaby91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 03:40 PM   #14
347 on juice
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Lynnwood, WA USA
Posts: 8
Default Amsoil

I use Amsoil 0-30 in my car and it works great. No leaks whatsoever. I would recommend synthetic to most anyone.
347 on juice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 04:34 PM   #15
82 GT
Import Slayer
 
82 GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by 2FastLX


Another benefit is the cleaning power of the Mobile 1 oil. I religeously changed my oil every 3000 miles with the petroleum based oil. When I pulled my valve covers there was a slight film of sludge. I switched to Mobile 1 and ran for around 5 more oil changes or so (at 4000-5000 miles between each oil change) then had to pull my heads to replace the head gaskets. To my amazement when I pulled the valve covers they looked like a brand new set of heads. Not a spec of sludge to be found anywhere. Even the lifter valley looked like a freshly cleaned block. I was very impressed and now swear by this stuff. It may be more expensive, but to me it's one of the best things you can do for your engine...high mileage or not.
I've always ran Valvoline 10w-40 in my mustangs, and still do.
When I tore my 351 down this summer I did'nt find one bit of sludge in the lifter gally or anywhere else for that matter.
I agree the synthetics are better then petro. based oils but there are some excellent petro based oils out there if you don't have the cash for the synthetics.
__________________
'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.
82 GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 04:44 PM   #16
Mach 1
Registered Member
 
Mach 1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
Default Re: Amsoil

Quote:
Originally posted by 347 on juice
I use Amsoil 0-30 in my car and it works great. No leaks whatsoever. I would recommend synthetic to most anyone.
Yeah, i think 0-30 synthetic is the way to go. great stuff. this weight isnt available in dino oil is it?
__________________
2002 GT
1993 GT (SOLD)
'93 Mustang GT
RHC member #142
Mach 1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 06:37 PM   #17
MEDIK418
Registered Member
 
MEDIK418's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA
Posts: 780
Default

Yes it are cold here once in a while. This morning it was 17 degrees at my house and it's 5:30pm and a whopping 34 degrees now.
__________________
1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet.
Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer.
MEDIK418 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 06:47 PM   #18
Mach 1
Registered Member
 
Mach 1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by MEDIK418
Yes it are cold here once in a while. This morning it was 17 degrees at my house and it's 5:30pm and a whopping 34 degrees now.
You southern People have to realize something....cold to you is not cold to someone in Canada. Its all what your used too,.......

Ive seen people wear shorts when it was 34 degrees outside. Why you ask? Because it felt warm to them. when your used to temps. in the negatives, 34 degrees is time for a tropicana party..
__________________
2002 GT
1993 GT (SOLD)
'93 Mustang GT
RHC member #142
Mach 1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 09:53 PM   #19
JaxTheDJ
Registered Member
 
JaxTheDJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Jacksonville,Fla.
Posts: 134
Default

I have tried basically all the top brand oils and recorded time,temp and how well it stood up after 40 runs at the track,this is my result:
Best parrafin based oil(regular motor oil): Pennzoil 10w30
Best Synthetic Blend: Castrol 5w30
Best Full Synthetic: Royal Purple 5w15 ( best 1/4 times) overall

We tested 5 major brands on 2 almost identical Mustangs and these are the best WE found based on ET and durability.

I personally run royal purple in MY Stang. try your own tests and see what works best for you.
__________________
Jack
1989 Mustang LX: Converted to Carb.650 AED Holley DP,Weiand Stealth Intake,Edelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum Heads,Hooker Super Comps, Ground Pounder Uppers and Lowers,Moroso Drag Springs,NEW COMP Xtreme Energy Cam and 1.6 RR. ,a few other goodies.*** New 1/4 times-12.50
1987 SC GT ( fast as hell)
2001 Powerstroke Tow Vehicle 1989 Coupe.

Sometimes when you cry,no one sees your tears..........
Sometimes when you are happy,no one sees your smile.........
But,FART just ONE time..........
JaxTheDJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2002, 11:40 PM   #20
MEDIK418
Registered Member
 
MEDIK418's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA
Posts: 780
Default

Yeah, but it was in the 80's here a couple of days ago. I grew up in Maine and you is right. Them Eskimos up yonder can have the cold stuff.

The cold here is nice because it only lasts a couple of months and it's back to the good stuff. I think the longest cold spell I can remember right off was one in 1982, December 16 the temperature fell to 6 degrees and that was the high for about 2 weeks. The bad part is the 30-60 mile an hour winds we have here. See, we're up here in the part of Texas that borders with Alaska. The only thing between us and the North pole is a barbed wire fence and most of it's down.

FYI, we use Royal Purple in every piece of rotating equipment in our refinery and the reliability folks swear by the stuff.
__________________
1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet.
Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer.
MEDIK418 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
weight reduction on a 94 cobra mak375 Windsor Power 2 11-21-2003 10:20 AM
88workcar-? reducing weight Simi Stang Windsor Power 10 11-08-2002 05:55 PM
Please Comment of Speed Secret # 2 jim_howard_pdx Windsor Power 20 11-06-2002 11:44 AM
351 Windsor motor weight vs 302 5.0 weight????? ELBGATOR3 Windsor Power 1 03-12-2001 12:07 AM
Weight and Weight Distribution 97snakedriver Corner Carvers Delight 4 01-11-2001 12:21 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:49 AM.


SEARCH