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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SanAntonio, Tx
Posts: 734
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![]() This is'nt new info to some of you, but keep an eye on driveshaft bolts, My car developed a bad vibration on deceleration, i checked under the car to inspect u-joints, and noticed all 4 of my d/s fasteners backed out, almost all the way,(finger tight) i dont know how it hung on while lauching hard as he11 that night before.
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Police package 5spd 90 Lx, Stock original motor, 3.27grs, BM fan, fms 10.5 clutch, D&D quadrant, and adjuster, ADS chip, 180 stat, mac cai, mac h-pipe, mac subframe connectors, ASP crank pulley, ripper shifter, 26x10.5 M/T sport pros welds. 246 hp according to analyzer ![]() Race weight: 3,120 E.t-13.57 with 26x10.50's e.t. streets. 1.88 60' mph- 99.92 mph |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Stroudsburg, PA, USA
Posts: 150
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![]() hey you might of just helped me out. the other day i was on the highway and was comming down from 90 something mph and the car was vibrating and it only did it when i was deaccelerating. I am definiatly going to check those bolts tomarrow.
thanks
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88 Stang 306 ci. GT Mustang heads- ported and polished/milled---Soon to be AFR 185cc 1.7 crane roller rockers/extra hardened pushrods FRPP X-303 Cam Stock Intake-1 inch intake spacer BBK Cold Air Induction Stock Injectors--going to 24 pounders BBK Full Length Headers Mac 2.5 inch Cat-Back 8 Point Cage Sub Frame Connectors World Class T-5 Steeda Shift Cable,Quadrant,Firewall adjuster King Cobra Clutch Pro 5.0 Shifter Alunimum Driveshaft/ Drive shaft loop Kenny Brown suspension 3.55 gears |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Staging lane
Posts: 4,337
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![]() Yeah you got lucky that you caught it when you did....It would have sucked if it happened at the track.
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92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 234
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![]() I've had the same thing happen to me. Just after the track as well. I'll take some luck once in awhile.
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82 Mercury Capri 302, Comp. Cams, Tremec 3550, 3.73's, 12.8@106 N/A Kevin's Capri Kevin's Mustang |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() yeah, its a good idea to crank those babies down after swapping driveshafts. You need to get a pipe and put it over the end of a box end wrench to get some real tourqe on them.
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Clayton, North Carolina, USA
Posts: 803
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![]() Ditto to Mach 1 comments, I have a 12mm wrench with a slight bend to it from tightening mine with a pipe over the wrench....I would also add a little locktite to the fasteners.
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() lol..yeah, my wrench has a slight bend in it also....dam cheap craftsman wrenches....
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Lafayette, Indiana
Posts: 120
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![]() I don't care how tight you get them. If you don't use some locktite they will come loose.
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SanAntonio, Tx
Posts: 734
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![]() Yea, i didnt have any locktite, but i think i will pick some up, i knew that was probaly the cause, along with some 5k launches on sticky tires.
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Police package 5spd 90 Lx, Stock original motor, 3.27grs, BM fan, fms 10.5 clutch, D&D quadrant, and adjuster, ADS chip, 180 stat, mac cai, mac h-pipe, mac subframe connectors, ASP crank pulley, ripper shifter, 26x10.5 M/T sport pros welds. 246 hp according to analyzer ![]() Race weight: 3,120 E.t-13.57 with 26x10.50's e.t. streets. 1.88 60' mph- 99.92 mph |
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#10 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() Quote:
Make the bolts tight enough, and you shouldnt have any problems. The problem is getting enough leverage and torque on the bolts since they arent the easiest to get a socket or wrench on. If you put a open pipe on a wrench, and get them nice and tight, they will not come loose. You dont have to kill them, but put some good torque on them. |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Athens, WV
Posts: 29
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![]() I am against locktite also. Ever worked on a car where the previous mechanic (haha) used locktite like wd-40. It aint fun.
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kevknotch88 1988 Coupe 135k BBK uneq, X-Pipe, mac 2.5, pullies, southsides, alum d/s, 3:08's, Tremec, TFS Stage 1 cam, 65 TB, Mass Air, Gt-40 U&L = 13.645 @ 104.61 |
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#12 |
Mustang Maniac
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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![]() Everytime I'm under the car (oil change or whatever) I check most bolts under the car, including driveshaft bolts.
One thing I kinda don't understand though, why isn't it made so nuts (and maybe a lock washer) go on the other end of the bolts? Looks like there is enough space to fit nuts in there. I dunno, to me it just feels like there'd be a little more assurance of them not turning themselves out. I never really had a problem with them coming out, they always seem tight as I left them when I check them, but I've wondered about that question.
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Valparaiso, IN USA
Posts: 56
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![]() If you notice when you take the original bolts out they have a thread sealant (locktite) on them. I would highly recommend cleaning the bolts up on a wire wheel, loctite them and torque them to the manufactures spec. Depending on what type of locktite you use will determine how hard they are to remove later. Red locktite is considered permanent (or really, really tough to remove), blue is for bolts you want to be able to remove. Over torqueing the bolts puts undo stress on the bolts and make them more prone to snapping under load.
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Largo, FL USA
Posts: 274
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![]() I agree with Beemer. I always use blue locktite and they have never backed out at all. I've never used a pipe to get them tight. I however have used a pipe or two trying to get them out
![]() On a side note, when I bought new bolts from Ford, they had a thread selaer on them already. JMHO.
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Negative Mustang @ present time. |
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#15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() Anybody know what the torque spec. is on the driveshaft bolts?
As far as Im concerned, if you need a pipe to remove them, installing them with a pipe isnt going to hurt them. Like I said already, dont kill them, but the pipe gives you the extra leverage you need to make sure they are snug enough to not back out on you. |
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