What would I have to do?

Dr. Speed · 05-03-2002, 10:55 AM

Hey everyone, I'm 15 and getting ready to buy my first car. Around the area where I live, the import craze is taking over my town. I've liked Mustangs for a long time, and I'm planning on buying a SN-95 94' 302. Most of the kids in my high school think that their imports are fast, and they always make fun of me because I want to buy a Mustang GT. Now I want to show them what the 302 domestic beast has got. What modifications would I have to do to run a high 13 ET in the 1/4 (I know that a 13 can take care of all the imports in my school)? Also, how much would this cost, keep in mind that I'm only in high school and I have a limited budget.

Dr. Speed · 05-03-2002, 11:07 AM

I forgot to say N/A

DemonGT · 05-03-2002, 12:12 PM

id say stick some 3.73 gears in it and some exhaust and you should be good..or just slap some nitrous on it.haha..

gears and exhaust can get pricey....bout 400 for gears and for a complete exhaust is like 700-800

Mr 5 0 · 05-03-2002, 01:08 PM

First, remove the air silencer if it's still in place. Advance your initial timing to about 14 degrees (use 92 octane gas). Perform a total tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, gas filter, PCV) Total cost: about $80. - $100. Install a K&N air filter if possible (about $45.), and if not, at least replace the paper filter and do so every 5,000 miles or so.

3.73 gears are expensive ($400. is about right - including installation) but a 'must-have' to see 13's without big engine mods.
You may need to replace the Traction-Lok discs, too. Depends on how the car you ultimately buy was used and what the mileage is.

No need for a whole exhaust system right away, as they are expensive. Just remove the catalytic converters (install an H-pipe- about $100.), where all the real exhaust restriction is. That'll free up some HP. Add some pulleys (another $100.) and learn how to drive it (launch without going up in smoke, mainly) and you've almost got it for about $700. dollars or so over the initial cost of the car.

Not unattainable if you have a full-time summer job or even a part-time job in the fall that pays anything above minimum wage. 'Speed cost money' and that's a fact of automotive life we all have to learn and live with.

Headers and other mods will continue to help lower the et, of course but this should have you well down in the 14's and possible 13's if you really learn how to drive it right, which takes time.

Good luck.

Dr. Speed · 05-03-2002, 01:34 PM

Yeah I know I'll have a problem with the $$$, but I'm turning 16 soon, and I can get a good job that pays much better than minimum at a local hospital. Thanks for the advice, but what does the advance in timing do as opposed to retarding?

Mr 5 0 · 05-03-2002, 02:58 PM

Dr.:

Ignition 'timing' is controlled by the relationship of the position of the piston to when the spark occurs.

If the ignition spark occurs too soon (timing advanced) it can actually push against a piston traveling up the cylinder as it is compressing the fuel/air mixture. This causes detonation, lost power, much higher combustion temperatures and possible early internal engine part failures.

If the spark occurs too late, (timing retarded) the ignition of the fuel mixture occurs after the piston is traveling back down the cylinder. This is wasted energy, unburned fuel, high emissions, and lost power.

Generally, advancing the timing (to about 14 degrees) on a 5.0 engine gives you quicker 'throttle response' and possibly a 1/10 second et drop in most cases. No HP gain but a performance gain - for free. The best kind of mod.

Dr. Speed · 05-03-2002, 03:04 PM

Mr. 5.0: With the modifications you have suggested, how much would American Thunder Flowmaster catback drop the estimated ET? With stock tires what would you expect the 0-60 time to be on an SN-95 AODE.

Mr 5 0 · 05-03-2002, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dr. Speed

Mr. 5.0: With the modifications you have suggested, how much would American Thunder Flowmaster catback drop the estimated ET? With stock tires what would you expect the 0-60 time to be on an SN-95 AODE.

The catback alone won't do much, less than a 1/10th et drop at the very most as the mufflers are not restrictive on the Mustang - the catalytic converters are.

With all the other modifications listed (3.73, H-pipe, timing, etc) plus (I forgot to mention) underdrive pulleys you should see a low to mid 14-second et with an AOD transmission, a big power-loser in stock form.

0-to-60 mph time should be 6.8 or so. Lot of variables to consider when predicting et and 0-60 times but that's a reasonable guess based on other Mustang owners experience with a SN95 5.0 and the AOD. Your et may vary.

Dr. Speed · 05-04-2002, 12:18 AM

Would a aftermarket torque converter drastically improve performance?

Dark_5.0 · 05-04-2002, 08:30 AM

A stall converter would help performance quite a bit, and so would a shift kit......but it you cant do the work yourself the installation charges add up quick.

My advice to you is, try to do most of the work yourself cause it will be a good learning experience. Surely you know someone thats knows there stuff and can help you.

You can find alot of good deals on e-bay. I have found some really good deals on there.

I put 3.73 gears in my car for a total cost of $79.00....bought them off ebay and installed them myself. (get someone that knows there stuff to help)

Off-road X-pipe for a total cost of $80.00...again E-bay and installed myself.

To be honest with you any 5.0 will out run 90% of imports bone stock.

Later,

05-03-2002, 10:55 AM	#1
Dr. Speed Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 9	What would I have to do? Hey everyone, I'm 15 and getting ready to buy my first car. Around the area where I live, the import craze is taking over my town. I've liked Mustangs for a long time, and I'm planning on buying a SN-95 94' 302. Most of the kids in my high school think that their imports are fast, and they always make fun of me because I want to buy a Mustang GT. Now I want to show them what the 302 domestic beast has got. What modifications would I have to do to run a high 13 ET in the 1/4 (I know that a 13 can take care of all the imports in my school)? Also, how much would this cost, keep in mind that I'm only in high school and I have a limited budget.

05-03-2002, 12:12 PM	#3
DemonGT Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 879	id say stick some 3.73 gears in it and some exhaust and you should be good..or just slap some nitrous on it.haha.. gears and exhaust can get pricey....bout 400 for gears and for a complete exhaust is like 700-800 __________________ '91 GT,410W,10.5 to 1 comp,Victor Jr. heads,Victor 5.8 intake,FTI cam,Crane retro fit lifters,Scorpian 1.6 RR's,Melling HV oil pump,MSD distro.,Canton oil pan,FMS flywheel,Romac balancer,FMS timing chain,Accufab 90mm TB,C&L 76mm maf, 42lbers,HD clutch,K&N air filter,Mac long tubes,Pro dumps,powerchamber,FMS 9mm wires,180 thermostat,Ford Racing gauges,5inch Tach,centerline convo pro's,nitto DR's,Pro3i lower control arms,50/50 shocks,3.55 gears,TFS HD diff. cover Next year: Tremec TKO,Spec stage 3 clutch,alum driveshaft,complete fuel system www.angelfire.com/linux/demondan

05-03-2002, 01:08 PM	#4
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Hello 13's! First, remove the air silencer if it's still in place. Advance your initial timing to about 14 degrees (use 92 octane gas). Perform a total tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, gas filter, PCV) Total cost: about $80. - $100. Install a K&N air filter if possible (about $45.), and if not, at least replace the paper filter and do so every 5,000 miles or so. 3.73 gears are expensive ($400. is about right - including installation) but a 'must-have' to see 13's without big engine mods. You may need to replace the Traction-Lok discs, too. Depends on how the car you ultimately buy was used and what the mileage is. No need for a whole exhaust system right away, as they are expensive. Just remove the catalytic converters (install an H-pipe- about $100.), where all the real exhaust restriction is. That'll free up some HP. Add some pulleys (another $100.) and learn how to drive it (launch without going up in smoke, mainly) and you've almost got it for about $700. dollars or so over the initial cost of the car. Not unattainable if you have a full-time summer job or even a part-time job in the fall that pays anything above minimum wage. 'Speed cost money' and that's a fact of automotive life we all have to learn and live with. Headers and other mods will continue to help lower the et, of course but this should have you well down in the 14's and possible 13's if you really learn how to drive it right, which takes time. Good luck.

05-03-2002, 02:58 PM	#6
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Good timing Dr.: Ignition 'timing' is controlled by the relationship of the position of the piston to when the spark occurs. If the ignition spark occurs too soon (timing advanced) it can actually push against a piston traveling up the cylinder as it is compressing the fuel/air mixture. This causes detonation, lost power, much higher combustion temperatures and possible early internal engine part failures. If the spark occurs too late, (timing retarded) the ignition of the fuel mixture occurs after the piston is traveling back down the cylinder. This is wasted energy, unburned fuel, high emissions, and lost power. Generally, advancing the timing (to about 14 degrees) on a 5.0 engine gives you quicker 'throttle response' and possibly a 1/10 second et drop in most cases. No HP gain but a performance gain - for free. The best kind of mod.

05-04-2002, 08:30 AM	#10
Dark_5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Staging lane Posts: 4,337	A stall converter would help performance quite a bit, and so would a shift kit......but it you cant do the work yourself the installation charges add up quick. My advice to you is, try to do most of the work yourself cause it will be a good learning experience. Surely you know someone thats knows there stuff and can help you. You can find alot of good deals on e-bay. I have found some really good deals on there. I put 3.73 gears in my car for a total cost of $79.00....bought them off ebay and installed them myself. (get someone that knows there stuff to help) Off-road X-pipe for a total cost of $80.00...again E-bay and installed myself. To be honest with you any 5.0 will out run 90% of imports bone stock. Later, __________________ 92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer

05-03-2002, 11:07 AM	#2
Dr. Speed Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 9	I forgot to say N/A

05-03-2002, 01:34 PM	#5
Dr. Speed Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 9	Yeah I know I'll have a problem with the $$$, but I'm turning 16 soon, and I can get a good job that pays much better than minimum at a local hospital. Thanks for the advice, but what does the advance in timing do as opposed to retarding?

05-03-2002, 03:04 PM	#7
Dr. Speed Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 9	Mr. 5.0: With the modifications you have suggested, how much would American Thunder Flowmaster catback drop the estimated ET? With stock tires what would you expect the 0-60 time to be on an SN-95 AODE.

05-04-2002, 12:18 AM	#9
Dr. Speed Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 9	Would a aftermarket torque converter drastically improve performance?