Changing clutch

Just me · 10-06-2003, 12:15 PM

Hello all. I'm changing my clutch this week but I wanted to make sure it was the clutch one last time. Thanks for answering my post before. Since this is still fresh in my mind, I took the car out this morning and while it was cold had no problems bringing the car out of 1st gear. I didn't even have the poblem the whole 20 minutes of driving. I went to the teller then drove again and still no problem. I went to eat some fast food then got back into the car and this is where my problem starts. Engaging into 1st gear from a stop gives me bad chatter and the whole car shakes, but only 1st gear. So I've decided to change my clutch this week. I changed the clutch just 2 years ago and haven't had any slipping. Do any of you think it may be something else? I just wanted to make sure. How would I know if its the flywheel or pressure plate? Also should I change my rear main seal? If so, would I need any special tools? Thanks in advance.

Just me
91'lx, 302 block, crank pulley, no smog, short belt, Wolverine 1087 cam, 15 deg timing, TFS TW heads, motorsport 1.6 3/8 stud RR, ARP studs, TFS chrome hardened push rods, 24lb inj, BBK 255lph fuel pump, Areomotive billet adj FPR, Performer RPM intake(ported to 75mm), 1" spacer, Motorsport polished tall valve covers(love em), Pro-M 77, Acufab 75mm TB, Ford idle air bypass valve, K&N conical, MSD 6AL and coil, 9mm MS cables, NGK bkr5e 11 plugs@55, motorsport 3 core radiator,160 thermostat, Hurst short throw, motorsport 410 gears, aluminum drive shaft,Kenny brown Subs, Mac 1 3/4"Long tube, custom 3"off road xpipe, 2 chamber Flow Masters, 3 1/2" tailpipes HAL tubular K-member, KYB struts and shocks, Eibach springs, Steeda 2.5" Cowl, Steeda rear wing, black Dupont centari acrylic enamel paint.

Beanhead · 10-06-2003, 01:39 PM

Same thing happens to me on my V6 occasionally, however, it's usually more a resultant of how I use the clutch pedal. Seriously. See if it still chatters when you lift the pedal up more gently than your ordinarily would, using more gas. At least give that a shot before going through the trouble of replacing your clutch.

For the most part, on a daily driver, you should not have to swap a clutch out in only two years.

Oh, and if you do decide to go ahead and change the clutch, make sure to have the flywheel resurfaced, for it may in fact be a scored or warped flywheel causing the chatter.... Also, make sure you replace your pilot bearing, for this get/borrow a good pilot bearing puller.

Oh yeah, one more thing, replace the rear mail oil seal too.

QuantumMotorsports · 10-06-2003, 01:51 PM

Most of the time, clutch chatter comes from either oil leaking out of the rear main seal and getting on the flywheel or pressure plate surface which causes it not to grab consistantly, or from the flywheel or pressure plate getting warped. Either way, if you want to fix it, replace the clutch, have the flywheel turned, and replace the rear main seal. All you should need to replace the seal is a really flat screwdriver or chizzle and a hammer. I may be smoking a fat sack and not remembering exactly how the seal comes out but I think there's a lip that you can wedge the screwdriver under and pry it out. Anyway, good luck.

Beanhead · 10-06-2003, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by QuantumMotorsports
All you should need to replace the seal is a really flat screwdriver or chizzle and a hammer. I may be smoking a fat sack and not remembering exactly how the seal comes out but I think there's a lip that you can wedge the screwdriver under and pry it out. Anyway, good luck.

Yeah, it's easy to get out with a screw driver, but be REALLY careful not to scratch anything. Also, get the *proper* tool to put it in. I used a hammer, and a really large heavy duty plastic cup, and still wasn't able to get it on 'perfectly'. Thus, after I put everything back, I found that the rear oil seal was leaking. Guess what? Everything back out, new seal, everything back in...

Just me · 10-06-2003, 06:59 PM

Thanks. I forgot to mention that I've had the car 10 years with the original clutch and all the mods were put on around 4 years ago. Before the mods all was fine but 2 years ago I started to have chatter so I replaced the original clutch and pressure plate. At that time I didn't see the seal leaking but still had the chatter even after changing the clutch. For the past 2 years I haven't changed the clutch again cause I work from home so the chatter isn't a big bother, but if I want to go to the track which is a ways away, the chatter will act up right on cue in the sportsman's lanes. I've tried to let out the clutch and work the gas pedal many different ways. Th whole car shakes when I let out the clutch slowly and revup the gas. The only way it won't chatter is if I launch from light to light which has been great practice but guys in mini vans fly by thinking they're beating me cause I'll launch at almost half throttle then let off the throttle to engage in normal driving. Also having short gears with a loud exhaust doesn't help. lol. Oh well, I get a kick out of it. Those guys lol. Anyway, sorry for babbling. I'm going to start this week and look for that seal tool and pilot bearing puller. Oh what about the pressure plate? Should I replace that? Thank you so much.

Beanhead · 10-06-2003, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Just me
Thanks. I forgot to mention that I've had the car 10 years with the original clutch and all the mods were put on around 4 years ago. Before the mods all was fine but 2 years ago I started to have chatter so I replaced the original clutch and pressure plate. At that time I didn't see the seal leaking but still had the chatter even after changing the clutch. For the past 2 years I haven't changed the clutch again cause I work from home so the chatter isn't a big bother, but if I want to go to the track which is a ways away, the chatter will act up right on cue in the sportsman's lanes. I've tried to let out the clutch and work the gas pedal many different ways. Th whole car shakes when I let out the clutch slowly and revup the gas. The only way it won't chatter is if I launch from light to light which has been great practice but guys in mini vans fly by thinking they're beating me cause I'll launch at almost half throttle then let off the throttle to engage in normal driving. Also having short gears with a loud exhaust doesn't help. lol. Oh well, I get a kick out of it. Those guys lol. Anyway, sorry for babbling. I'm going to start this week and look for that seal tool and pilot bearing puller. Oh what about the pressure plate? Should I replace that? Thank you so much.

Yes, replace the pressure plate.

Here's what you should replace while you're "in there":

Clutch disc
Pressure Plate
Throwout Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Rear Main Oil Seal

Given the age of the flywheel, personally, I'd get a new one, but you might be able to get away with having it re-surfaced.

***when putting the 6 flywheel bolts back on, put "red" sealant on the threads to make sure you get no oil leaks through the bolts***

Oh yeah, good time to change the tranny fluid too.

Check out SPEC clutches. I've got a STAGE 1 on my Cobra, for just under $200, I got the pressure plate, clutch disc, and throwout bearing...

Good luck!

PS

See if you can get/borrow the pilot bearing puller made by Snap-On. I will tell you right now, that if its never been changed, it will likely be a ***** to remove. Packing it with grease and inserting a dowel will NOT work. Mine was in so tight, that I actually broke the puller tool I borrowed from Autozone. You need a puller with "legs" that will set on the flywheel and pull the bearing up and out as you turn it.

Heed my words, I spent a good 3 hours wrestling with that thing, and it wasn't until the local Ford Motorsport dealer loaned me the Snap On puller that I was able to get it out.

And like I mentioned before, the other mistake I made was not getting the rear oil seal in "perfectly". It sure as heck looked perfect after I put it in, but it wasn't.

Pyromaniac79 · 10-07-2003, 08:07 AM

You didn't say if your clutch was hydraulic or cable. If it is cable and you put in an after market clutch I would replace the cable and quadrant with an after market set.

Just me · 10-07-2003, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Given the age of the flywheel, personally, I'd get a new one, but you might be able to get away with having it re-surfaced.

I originally wanted to get a new flywheel but don't know which kind to get or from where. Billet steel would seem like the right choice as its basically buying the direct replacement. Is this right? Aluminum is too expensive.
Beanhead, thanks or all the info. I will do it exactly like you said.

Quote:

You didn't say if your clutch was hydraulic or cable. If it is cable and you put in an after market clutch I would replace the cable and quadrant with an after market set.

I installed a new cable/quadrant last year with a BBK setup on my mission to fix this problem.
Thanks

USMC302 · 10-07-2003, 10:25 AM

He has a 91, so it's a cable clutch, and I also recommend an aftermarket clutch cable and quadrant. I have had good results with my BBK for years.

Honestly, if you still had a slight chatter after replacing the clutch the first time then I doubt it's the clutch, when you replaced it before did you have the flywheel resurfaced then? Look for blue hot spots on the clutch for excessive heat, you might want to look into getting another flywheel too. There is a nice one on ebay right now.......

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2435804959

QuantumMotorsports · 10-07-2003, 02:21 PM

www.jegs.com has Ford Motorsport Flywheels for $99. damn good deal, great flywheel. No one needs an aluminum flywheel. When you launch it's good to have some rotating mass so that you won't bog down as much. It doesn't take that much HP to accelerate a steel flywheel at high RPMs anyway. Aluminum ones are dumb in my opinion.

Just me · 10-10-2003, 01:45 PM

Thank you very much guys. I'm going to look for the blue spots on the clutch. I noticed that when I looked under the car I saw a little gunked oil between the engine and tranny. I don't think its coming from the screen in the lower intake(PCV?) but its hard to see back there to notice a trail going down. Anyway, I'll be under the car this weekend. I'm geeting the Ford motorsport $99 flywheel. I'm also getting the clutch as well as the other stuff. Thanks again for your help guys.

10-06-2003, 12:15 PM	#1
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	Changing clutch Hello all. I'm changing my clutch this week but I wanted to make sure it was the clutch one last time. Thanks for answering my post before. Since this is still fresh in my mind, I took the car out this morning and while it was cold had no problems bringing the car out of 1st gear. I didn't even have the poblem the whole 20 minutes of driving. I went to the teller then drove again and still no problem. I went to eat some fast food then got back into the car and this is where my problem starts. Engaging into 1st gear from a stop gives me bad chatter and the whole car shakes, but only 1st gear. So I've decided to change my clutch this week. I changed the clutch just 2 years ago and haven't had any slipping. Do any of you think it may be something else? I just wanted to make sure. How would I know if its the flywheel or pressure plate? Also should I change my rear main seal? If so, would I need any special tools? Thanks in advance. Just me 91'lx, 302 block, crank pulley, no smog, short belt, Wolverine 1087 cam, 15 deg timing, TFS TW heads, motorsport 1.6 3/8 stud RR, ARP studs, TFS chrome hardened push rods, 24lb inj, BBK 255lph fuel pump, Areomotive billet adj FPR, Performer RPM intake(ported to 75mm), 1" spacer, Motorsport polished tall valve covers(love em), Pro-M 77, Acufab 75mm TB, Ford idle air bypass valve, K&N conical, MSD 6AL and coil, 9mm MS cables, NGK bkr5e 11 plugs@55, motorsport 3 core radiator,160 thermostat, Hurst short throw, motorsport 410 gears, aluminum drive shaft,Kenny brown Subs, Mac 1 3/4"Long tube, custom 3"off road xpipe, 2 chamber Flow Masters, 3 1/2" tailpipes HAL tubular K-member, KYB struts and shocks, Eibach springs, Steeda 2.5" Cowl, Steeda rear wing, black Dupont centari acrylic enamel paint.

10-06-2003, 01:39 PM	#2
Beanhead Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Near Boston, MA Posts: 51	Same thing happens to me on my V6 occasionally, however, it's usually more a resultant of how I use the clutch pedal. Seriously. See if it still chatters when you lift the pedal up more gently than your ordinarily would, using more gas. At least give that a shot before going through the trouble of replacing your clutch. For the most part, on a daily driver, you should not have to swap a clutch out in only two years. Oh, and if you do decide to go ahead and change the clutch, make sure to have the flywheel resurfaced, for it may in fact be a scored or warped flywheel causing the chatter.... Also, make sure you replace your pilot bearing, for this get/borrow a good pilot bearing puller. Oh yeah, one more thing, replace the rear mail oil seal too. __________________ '94 Cobra '95 V6

10-06-2003, 01:51 PM	#3
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	Most of the time, clutch chatter comes from either oil leaking out of the rear main seal and getting on the flywheel or pressure plate surface which causes it not to grab consistantly, or from the flywheel or pressure plate getting warped. Either way, if you want to fix it, replace the clutch, have the flywheel turned, and replace the rear main seal. All you should need to replace the seal is a really flat screwdriver or chizzle and a hammer. I may be smoking a fat sack and not remembering exactly how the seal comes out but I think there's a lip that you can wedge the screwdriver under and pry it out. Anyway, good luck. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

10-07-2003, 10:25 AM	#9
USMC302 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Gallatin, Tn Posts: 1,326	He has a 91, so it's a cable clutch, and I also recommend an aftermarket clutch cable and quadrant. I have had good results with my BBK for years. Honestly, if you still had a slight chatter after replacing the clutch the first time then I doubt it's the clutch, when you replaced it before did you have the flywheel resurfaced then? Look for blue hot spots on the clutch for excessive heat, you might want to look into getting another flywheel too. There is a nice one on ebay right now....... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2435804959 __________________

10-07-2003, 02:21 PM	#10
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	www.jegs.com has Ford Motorsport Flywheels for $99. damn good deal, great flywheel. No one needs an aluminum flywheel. When you launch it's good to have some rotating mass so that you won't bog down as much. It doesn't take that much HP to accelerate a steel flywheel at high RPMs anyway. Aluminum ones are dumb in my opinion. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

10-06-2003, 06:59 PM	#5
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	Thanks. I forgot to mention that I've had the car 10 years with the original clutch and all the mods were put on around 4 years ago. Before the mods all was fine but 2 years ago I started to have chatter so I replaced the original clutch and pressure plate. At that time I didn't see the seal leaking but still had the chatter even after changing the clutch. For the past 2 years I haven't changed the clutch again cause I work from home so the chatter isn't a big bother, but if I want to go to the track which is a ways away, the chatter will act up right on cue in the sportsman's lanes. I've tried to let out the clutch and work the gas pedal many different ways. Th whole car shakes when I let out the clutch slowly and revup the gas. The only way it won't chatter is if I launch from light to light which has been great practice but guys in mini vans fly by thinking they're beating me cause I'll launch at almost half throttle then let off the throttle to engage in normal driving. Also having short gears with a loud exhaust doesn't help. lol. Oh well, I get a kick out of it. Those guys lol. Anyway, sorry for babbling. I'm going to start this week and look for that seal tool and pilot bearing puller. Oh what about the pressure plate? Should I replace that? Thank you so much.

10-07-2003, 08:07 AM	#7
Pyromaniac79 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Enterprise, AL Posts: 26	You didn't say if your clutch was hydraulic or cable. If it is cable and you put in an after market clutch I would replace the cable and quadrant with an after market set.

10-10-2003, 01:45 PM	#11
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	Thank you very much guys. I'm going to look for the blue spots on the clutch. I noticed that when I looked under the car I saw a little gunked oil between the engine and tranny. I don't think its coming from the screen in the lower intake(PCV?) but its hard to see back there to notice a trail going down. Anyway, I'll be under the car this weekend. I'm geeting the Ford motorsport $99 flywheel. I'm also getting the clutch as well as the other stuff. Thanks again for your help guys.

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