When should I change my timing chain?
 

When should I change my timing chain? It's a 88 GT 5.0

Well that all depends, is it a bone stock daily driver, high or low miles, going to get a cam? Basically if it's just a daily driver don't worry too much about it until the motor goes south, but if you are going to modify at all, put it in when you do a cam swap. Don't be surprised if your old one has quite a bit of slack in it, it's not all that uncommon.

Re: When should I change my timing chain?
 

Unless you're running the heck out of your engine, you'll probably never need a timing chain. Under normal use, very seldom does a timing chain go bad.

I'm sorry, guys, but I totally disagree. A timing chain has measurable wear after less than 5k miles. Stock or built, babied or trashed, any 5.0 will have a noticible improvement by changing the timing set at 100k miles. I've always done my vehicles at 75k miles, or any time the gears are exposed (kinda like installing a new clutch every time the tranny is out).

An engine may run for 300k miles or more on the original chain and gears, but why? It could go that long on the original plugs, too, but again, why?

Easy, cheap job, with good results.

I say change it no later than 100k miles.

Take care,
ÅChris

My stang has 135,000 miles and when I changed the oil pan gasket last month I stuck my finger up and felt the slack on the timing chain. Fairly decent amount of slack, nice to see the factory chain is a double roller, not the scary link chain my chevy had. Not sure if I want to tear into it just to change the chain, though as Chris said, that amount of stretch can effect the timing, and cam timing too (duh)

If I did expose the chain, I would be too tempted to do a cam swap as well. I know everyone says just keep the stocker, but heck MORE POWER is GOOD

It's a vicious circle, isn't it!

:D

Take care,
ÅChris

Or a water pump stud breaks off in the block!!!:mad:

Most tech bulletins say to replace your timing chain a minimum of every 100,000 miles.

I bought a Cloyes true roller street set up. It allows you to run the cam straight up, 4 degrees advanced (more low torque) or 4 degrees retarded ( more horsepower at high rpms). $59.00.

Now I just replace the chain anytime the timing cover comes off. Chains run $17.95.

On any chain there is the side from the crank to the cam, it should have NO SLACK to very minimal slack, on the back side there will often be about 1/2 inch of slack. This is normal.

If the chain breaks, the valves stay open, the pistons collide, things bend and break.......NO FUN.

$17.95 every 100,000 miles is like an oil change.....

Just something to think about.....

Camshafts...... yummmmy

I have two in my garage. What are you looking for? One is good for about .08 hp per cubic inch, the other is good for .09 hp per cubic inch. One is the HO/351W pattern and the other is a 289/302 pattern.

Use the 351W pattern on any new cams you buy. Smoother power production, less crank stress. All very good things.

i would also recommend the timing chain change at 100,000 miles. very easy job and the result is a motor that feels more respnsonsive and also peace of mind

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I hate it when that happens,I've had it happen in 2 of 7 mustangs I've had. The water pump bolts are just real weak from Ford and when they rust, well, game over. Thank God for easy outs! I have changed timing chains when I do cam swaps everytime.

Speaking of changes, what kind of fluid should be used in a gear oil change? What is recommended?

Jim one word of advice, the chain and gears are really supposed to be replaced together, as they tend to form wear patterns between the teeth and the chain.

Frequent chain changing is not really a bad thing. Many racers use the cheapo stock chains on their Chevys and just replace them every few runs, the cheapo Cloyes double row non true roller chain and gears costs a Whopping $17.00 for a Chevy SB and even has 3 keyways.

Hmm I just changed my WP thank god no bolts broke, the few real long ones must be the ones that break eh?? Steel bolts in a Aluminum cover = stuck bolts I guess

I started to replace my water pump out in my driveway.. a seemingly simple job.. but my problem was my longest bolt seized inside the water pump ... so it was actulay freee from teh block, but the only way I could get the water pump off would be to take off all teh brackets for EVERYTHING and spin the whole pump off... I ended up sedning it to a local mechanic who spent a hour with a torch basicaly cutting the water pump off the bolt... that aluminun sucks...
-as