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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Spokane
Posts: 8
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![]() I have a 92 5.0, and recently replaced the clutch, resurfaced flywheel etc...anyhow, i did the whole pull up on the pedal and let the cable on the quadrant adjust itself and it works fine, however i have to push the clutch pedal ALL the way to the floor to disengage/engage the clutch and at times when driving, it is harder to put in gear than others. Once in a while i hear a clunk when putting it in gear. Is it just not adjusted right? Or is there an adjustment with the clutch pedal that i can do? Where does your clutch engage?
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Mannheim, Germany
Posts: 124
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![]() Mine does the same thing. A lot of people's do, welcome to the club!!
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89 LX 5.0 Notchback, FINALLY NO LONGER STOCK! |
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#3 |
gear banger
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 1,144
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![]() My 79 will not grab untill the pedal is almost all the way out. I like it because it is nice for powershifting.
My 93 will grab 1" from the floor. I have the Steada quad, and cable and still no luck. I have herd that the steada cables are junk because they stretch out easy. I am starting to agree.
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79 Hatch: NA 347, Stage 2 Canfield Heads, Victor JR. Intake, Blueprinted Holley 750 HP, Solid Roller Cam, Shooting for 10's on motor 93 LX: Tremec, dual friction clutch, fms flywheel, Hedman shorties, O/R H-pipe Ricer hater's club member #49 |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Apalachicola, FL.
Posts: 30
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![]() My car was doing the same thing until I installed a steeda double hook quadrant and the firewall adjuster kit. Now it's better than new. It should fix your problem. Good look.
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306cid,BBk headers,24# racing inj.,75mm bullet,E-303 cam,keith black 10.5-1 pistons,holly ajust. fuel reg.,msd 6AL,msd billet distributor, trick flow intake with bbk 65mm Tb & EGR, world class HD trans. 4.10 gears and dynomax race mags. |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 379
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![]() mine was the same way ....it kept getting worse so i replaced the quatrant and cable .......when the self adjusters spring gets worn out it slowly puts the adjustment closer to the floor ......mine started to get pretty bad ,almost couldn't get it in first
i got the steeda quatrant and cable ......got about 20,000 miles on it and no problems with cable ,it stretched a little for the first couple of weeks but has been working fine ever since ,had to adjust it once cause of clutch wear but no other problems
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the "not so old",old guy 87 Mustang GT T-top >hanlon t-5, pro 5.0, centerforce clutch ,adj. cable/quatrant ,3.27s ,full 2 1/2 ex(off road H) adj. reg. ,e-cam ,70mm TB, cobra intake ,1.7rr ,ported/milled e7ets w/crane springs ,306 balaced/decked short block w/speed pro forged flat top pistons ...257rwhp/302rwt best et 13.7@102 (4/11 ) '80 Capri (future project,currently collecting parts for 351 moter) |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park
Posts: 695
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![]() I've been having the same problem. I put in a new Steeda quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster and a new cable and have been having problems setting the release point where i want it. My clutch is a bit worn so i'm thinking that may have something to do with it. Having the adjuster turned most of the way in seems to give me the best setting I can get, which is the clutch engaging at about 2/3 of the way up. I wanted to get the clutch to release as close to the floor as possible, but haven't had much luck. I guess I'll keep messing with it and see what I can do. I guess I'm not helping you out much, but at least you know your not the only one with this prob.
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Yuma, AZ
Posts: 536
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![]() this is kind of a coincidence, because just today, I had to tighten my Steeda firewall adjuster for the first time since i bought it over a year ago. The cable seems to have stretched a little, and it was hard to get it in gear. So I just popped the hood, turned the adjuster, and presto, good as new.
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Dave 88 GT - 13.4@106 on street tires (2.2 60ft) My Stang RHC member #75 My stang is FOR SALE!! |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin
Posts: 380
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![]() I have the FRPP quadrant and cable and it works great.
The clutch engages right below the brake pedal and that's where I heard it should be and not to mess with it and not to make it engage any lower, or too close to the floor. I don't know if anyone else had to do this but... I had to zip strip my quadrant to something under the dash. The quadrant kept sliding and made it hard to get into gear. Now that it is tied down I can shift gears smoothly. Weird heh? I am really glad I have this setup though. Now I can beat the hell out of it at the track and not have to worry about snapping the clutch cable or breaking the quadrant...except maybe the zip strip ![]()
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'91 LX convertible , T-5, Centerforce Dual Friction, MSD Blaster Coil, FR 9MM wires, 13* timing, 1.6rr, ported/polished/milled stock heads, 1.94/1.60 stainless valves, March Performance Pulleys, K&N panel, 1"spacer, BBK shorties, 2 1/2" off road H, Summit 2 1/2" catback |
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#9 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 120
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I'm sofa king we tall did. |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin
Posts: 380
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![]() Ponycar_302,
Does your quadrant sit tight on the pin it swings on? Mine would slide around wherever and whenever it wanted to. ![]()
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'91 LX convertible , T-5, Centerforce Dual Friction, MSD Blaster Coil, FR 9MM wires, 13* timing, 1.6rr, ported/polished/milled stock heads, 1.94/1.60 stainless valves, March Performance Pulleys, K&N panel, 1"spacer, BBK shorties, 2 1/2" off road H, Summit 2 1/2" catback |
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#11 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 120
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I'm sofa king we tall did. |
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#12 |
Mustangs
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,938
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![]() I just put a centerforce clutch in my GT and with the BBK adjustable quadrant/cable the feel of the clutch is WAY better than the stock one. I remember it used to be hard to get into gear sometimes (just like the other 2 stickshift fox mustangs i've owned) and now it has a great feel and clutch engagement is easier than with the stock clutch and cable/quadrant. There's a reason that the clutch quadrant is such a popular item on the aftermarket....the stock one sucks
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2005 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300-R 1980 Ford Thunderbird - 255 V8 ported heads, 5.0L ported stock headers, O.R. H-pipe and Flowmaster 2-chambers, dual roller timing chain hi-po Mack Truck hood emblem ![]() 1985 Mustang GT 5.0L T5, F-303, GT40p, headers, off-road h, flowmasters, MSD stuff, etc. Sold 02/06/04 ![]() 1989 Mustang GT ET: 13.304@102.29 mph (5-24-03) Sold - 1998 Mustang Cobra coupe, 1/4 mile - street tires: 13.843@103.41 (bone stock) |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Taxachusetts
Posts: 374
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![]() On the '95, it engages smoothly throughout the entire range, starting about an inch from the floor.
On my '93, it only engages in an inch, right up at the top of its travel. It's useful for speedshifting. ![]() |
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Rogers, MN
Posts: 2,089
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![]() You need to get down there with your hands and disengage the pawl to reset it. When a clutch wears out the cable gets tighter and tighter. The stock quadrant is designed to automatically give up some slack when the cable tightens. When you put in a new clutch, the cable is then really loose because of all the loosening it did.
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351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible |
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