building a motor finally...anyone running an anderson motorsport cam?

ex-lt1-guy · 11-13-2002, 11:15 PM

HI everyone, im building a 327 (standard bore 302 pistons with 331 kit) full drag motor. I have seen a few cams from anderson motorsports that have caught my attention recently. They have a Hi-rev series available, with matching valvesprings, I was curious if anyone has ever run any of these cams before, or have a different cam they recommend for my combo. I'll be running at about 9.5-10.5 compression, using edelbrock victor jrs heads, victor 5.0 intake, plus the 331 stroker kit. Given the flow for the heads and intake what cam would u guys recommend, i liked the n-91 or n-71. I was interested in the n-111 but i dont know about that peticular cam. can anyone help me?? thanks in advance

ex-lt1-guy · 11-13-2002, 11:29 PM

oh yeah its goin into my free notchback i got a month or so back hehe, im goin all out on the drivetrain just because i didnt pay a thing for the car

jim_howard_pdx · 11-14-2002, 03:22 PM

Read my speed secrets one through 5, I may have 6 posted soon too.

FIRST, you need to run at least .005 over pistons. WHY???? You need to get the cylinder wall to piston skirt precise to .0025 to .0035, run zero gap rings, and MOST IMPORTANTLY YOU NEED THIS BORE AND HONE WITH A TORQUE PLATE!!!!!!.

I don't care how good they say your bores are, when you put torque on the head bolts the bores will distort. No stock block is bored with torque plates NONE, NADA, END OF STORY. If you are building a 332 with a new block STOP. Get a seasoned core where the core shift has already occurred.

THIS IS REALLY ENGINE BUILDING 101, but you need to have perfectly round cylinders, reduce the blow through, and keep the cylinder walls tight to the piston. I know some racers hitting the piston to wall clearance at .0012 to .0015!!!! They are winning class races at every event where they finish, so they have a good argument that tight is right.

Next, what does your bracket allow for pistons and rods???? If you are not limited, go with very light weight rods and pistons. I like J&E, ROSS, or PROBE pieces. LIGHT light LIGHT. Go with an Aluminum rod go make it lighter still, and have the crank knife edged just to the rod/piston balance point.

You can use the cam you looked at, but I would go with a Comp Cam solid roller lifter cam. They have almost 60 in their catalog for small block fords. I like their 255 duration @.050 with 44 degrees overlap and .570 lift on the intake and 265 5.80 lift on the exhaust. Run 1.6 rollers but clearance the pistons for 1.7 rollers and use them if you need them at the track for a grunge race.

Use a high compression piston. Keep the quench really tight, and do not allow a big hole in the combustion chamber. If you are not allowed to run pop up domed pistons, then angle cut the combusion chamber to eliminate the dead space. You want the quench at the spark plug to be .012 to .015 MAXIMUM.

With tight quench and tight clearance at the combustion chamber you will have a great engine that naturally resists detonation. I like to run a water injector anyway. They just help keep the engine a bunch happier.

Make sure you run a good windage tray AND A CRANK SCRAPPER. The windage tray will run 150.00 and a crank scrapper is about 14.00. Use a stud kit on the mains and the heads and use a girdle down below if you plan to spin it faster than 6,500 rpm on a sustainded basis.

Hope this helps.....

You might think the cam is too built, but with the low overlap, it will take an 11.0 to 1 compression engine but build the same cylinder pressure as if you were running 12.5 to 1 compression. You will have less detonation than a high static compression engine AND you will have much less intake dillution effect than a standard roller cam. This is called building dynamic compression ratios and it is what we do now a days to get really dramatic ets and top speeds without sacraficing engine longevity.
Have the intake extrude honed. You cannot understand how much this improves the intake quality. It reduces buffeting and reverberant energy better than any intake improvement I have found on EFI cars.

fiveohpatrol · 11-14-2002, 03:56 PM

I recently visited Anderson's shop and met Rick as he was tuning on a friend of mine's (302man) supercharged stang. Rick is an extremely nice guy, and really knows his stuff. He IS the tech line when you call their shop, and will reccomend the best cam (of his) for your setup. I would just call and talk to him if I were you.

I know those hi-rev cams/springs work too, because 302man has an anderson Rap71cam with springs in his car (hydraulic roller) and it revved all the way to 7500rpm with ease. Its awful fun watching 680rwhp spin it up that high on the dyno, but a little scary at the same time

MEDIK418 · 11-15-2002, 10:06 AM

Dang Jim. . ..read the question!

ex-lt1-guy · 11-15-2002, 09:09 PM

phewwwwww

Thanks for the help Jim, I may need to take a nap after reading that lonnnnng post, but i appreciate it.

11-13-2002, 11:15 PM	#1
ex-lt1-guy Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: O'Fallon IL Posts: 93	building a motor finally...anyone running an anderson motorsport cam? HI everyone, im building a 327 (standard bore 302 pistons with 331 kit) full drag motor. I have seen a few cams from anderson motorsports that have caught my attention recently. They have a Hi-rev series available, with matching valvesprings, I was curious if anyone has ever run any of these cams before, or have a different cam they recommend for my combo. I'll be running at about 9.5-10.5 compression, using edelbrock victor jrs heads, victor 5.0 intake, plus the 331 stroker kit. Given the flow for the heads and intake what cam would u guys recommend, i liked the n-91 or n-71. I was interested in the n-111 but i dont know about that peticular cam. can anyone help me?? thanks in advance

11-14-2002, 03:22 PM	#3
jim_howard_pdx Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 247	Read my speed secrets one through 5, I may have 6 posted soon too. FIRST, you need to run at least .005 over pistons. WHY???? You need to get the cylinder wall to piston skirt precise to .0025 to .0035, run zero gap rings, and MOST IMPORTANTLY YOU NEED THIS BORE AND HONE WITH A TORQUE PLATE!!!!!!. I don't care how good they say your bores are, when you put torque on the head bolts the bores will distort. No stock block is bored with torque plates NONE, NADA, END OF STORY. If you are building a 332 with a new block STOP. Get a seasoned core where the core shift has already occurred. THIS IS REALLY ENGINE BUILDING 101, but you need to have perfectly round cylinders, reduce the blow through, and keep the cylinder walls tight to the piston. I know some racers hitting the piston to wall clearance at .0012 to .0015!!!! They are winning class races at every event where they finish, so they have a good argument that tight is right. Next, what does your bracket allow for pistons and rods???? If you are not limited, go with very light weight rods and pistons. I like J&E, ROSS, or PROBE pieces. LIGHT light LIGHT. Go with an Aluminum rod go make it lighter still, and have the crank knife edged just to the rod/piston balance point. You can use the cam you looked at, but I would go with a Comp Cam solid roller lifter cam. They have almost 60 in their catalog for small block fords. I like their 255 duration @.050 with 44 degrees overlap and .570 lift on the intake and 265 5.80 lift on the exhaust. Run 1.6 rollers but clearance the pistons for 1.7 rollers and use them if you need them at the track for a grunge race. Use a high compression piston. Keep the quench really tight, and do not allow a big hole in the combustion chamber. If you are not allowed to run pop up domed pistons, then angle cut the combusion chamber to eliminate the dead space. You want the quench at the spark plug to be .012 to .015 MAXIMUM. With tight quench and tight clearance at the combustion chamber you will have a great engine that naturally resists detonation. I like to run a water injector anyway. They just help keep the engine a bunch happier. Make sure you run a good windage tray AND A CRANK SCRAPPER. The windage tray will run 150.00 and a crank scrapper is about 14.00. Use a stud kit on the mains and the heads and use a girdle down below if you plan to spin it faster than 6,500 rpm on a sustainded basis. Hope this helps..... You might think the cam is too built, but with the low overlap, it will take an 11.0 to 1 compression engine but build the same cylinder pressure as if you were running 12.5 to 1 compression. You will have less detonation than a high static compression engine AND you will have much less intake dillution effect than a standard roller cam. This is called building dynamic compression ratios and it is what we do now a days to get really dramatic ets and top speeds without sacraficing engine longevity. Have the intake extrude honed. You cannot understand how much this improves the intake quality. It reduces buffeting and reverberant energy better than any intake improvement I have found on EFI cars. __________________ 1966 Customized for daily street and highway domination. 358 Windsor running 425 HP C-4 Auto and 3.25 Posi

11-14-2002, 03:56 PM	#4
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	I recently visited Anderson's shop and met Rick as he was tuning on a friend of mine's (302man) supercharged stang. Rick is an extremely nice guy, and really knows his stuff. He IS the tech line when you call their shop, and will reccomend the best cam (of his) for your setup. I would just call and talk to him if I were you. I know those hi-rev cams/springs work too, because 302man has an anderson Rap71cam with springs in his car (hydraulic roller) and it revved all the way to 7500rpm with ease. Its awful fun watching 680rwhp spin it up that high on the dyno, but a little scary at the same time __________________ NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft

11-15-2002, 10:06 AM	#5
MEDIK418 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA Posts: 780	Dang Jim. . ..read the question! __________________ 1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet. Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer.

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11-13-2002, 11:29 PM	#2
ex-lt1-guy Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: O'Fallon IL Posts: 93	oh yeah its goin into my free notchback i got a month or so back hehe, im goin all out on the drivetrain just because i didnt pay a thing for the car

11-15-2002, 09:09 PM	#6
ex-lt1-guy Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: O'Fallon IL Posts: 93	phewwwwww Thanks for the help Jim, I may need to take a nap after reading that lonnnnng post, but i appreciate it.