why am I slow off the line???

isaacGT91 · 09-18-2001, 09:20 AM

i have a 91 mustang. how do i get faster or quicker off the line with an automatic with a B&M shift kit. engine includes: cobra intake upper-lower(upper ported),Crane ignition kit,70mm throttle,cold air kit,MSD cap-rotor,motorsport wires,computer chip(??),motorsport timing chain....plannig to put 4:10 gears at the rear end.

mustang17 · 09-18-2001, 10:43 AM

The gears will help a ton. 4.10's are great for an auto.

One problem I see is that you have a 70mm TB. That is way too big for your current set up. You must be losing a great deal of low end power, hence the trouble off the line.

I'd go with a 65mm unless you going to be doing alot of mods. Some people like the 65mm even with heads,intake,cam, ect.

by the way, welcome to Mustangworks!

Good luck!

------------------
1995 GT Black- Edelbrock 6037's,Intake,Edelbrock cam,70mm TB,75mm pro-m,Taylor wires, pulleys,Equal length headers,K&N filter
Flowmaster,3.73's, Eibach pro rate springs
lower control arms Centerforce clutch
New motor in the works!

silver_pilate · 09-18-2001, 11:44 AM

Isaac,

You need a higher stalling torque converter. The stock converter stalls around 1500 rpm, well below your 302's powerband. You need a converter stalling around 2500-2800 rpm.

I'll tell you this. The converter, by itself, is without a doubt the best single mod I have done. It will get you off the line much more quickly, you will have much better throttle response, and your overall driving experience will become much more enjoyable.

My converter is a non lock-up converter. If you want to save a few mpg and aren't necessarily out for absolute street performance, go for a lock-up converter from someone like Precision Industries (the best out there, but pricey at $700), Lentech, or Performance Automatic. Reguardless, you will want to get a tranny cooler to extend tranny life, and you should have one for your AOD anyway.

Just remember, often in the case of high performance precision auto parts, you pay for what you get. Don't skimp on it or you will likely regret it.

Good luck and if you have any questions, let me know.

--nathan

------------------
--silver_pilate

'91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods...

Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh...
--Texas Panhandle--
Check out my site

Jeff Chambers · 09-18-2001, 11:55 AM

I'll agree completely with Nathan. Gears and converter. If you have the chance, put your car on a chassis dyno. The curves will really show you exactly what your converter is doing. Different converters behave differently. If you've got a real loose converter, it may be costing you ET with too much slip down in the low end. Remember, one dyno curve is worth a thousand words.

------------------
Jeff Chambers
Trophy Stock #3
11.462 Seconds / 117.43 MPH
Chambers Racing Team

HiFlow5 0 · 09-18-2001, 12:45 PM

i don't know about u, but i hate my B&M shift kit, i'm going to install a transgo. i've heard good things about them. go with gears (4.10's)and a stall converter(2800), that will help greatly!

------------------
89 GT AOD w/ shift kit, B&M rachet shifter, Trickflow intake, Crane (E-type) cam, 70Tb, 75MAF, 1.6 Rockers, Pulleys, MAC headers and H-pipe, Dynomax mufflers, K&N, 3 core radiator, white face gauges, custom interior, cobra R rims
MY89GT

6T9PONY · 09-19-2001, 12:08 AM

I really like my B&M shift kit. With 3.70 gears and 295/50/15s in back I'd chirp 2nd just about every time I was running it hard on that shift. I don't recommend going around a turn on a shitty street and letting it kickdown. It may cause a wreck. I know this.

------------------
Previously "BennyBoy"
'69 Coupe with 351W-I rolled it 8/8
Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, C4: shift kit, 9" Currie: Trac-Lok 3.70s, 290hp-stock heads

Vector · 09-19-2001, 12:47 AM

6T9PONY, I can chirp 2nd easy in my step-mom's '92 AOD Convertible, all stock 2.73s

90dpscoupe · 09-19-2001, 04:32 PM

hey isaac, seems your from sa too, you ever go to the local tracks? you are at a great site now, what these guys said is good info, of course you could always convert to a t-5 lol j/k.

------------------
90 lx coupe: 5spd, energy susp trans mounts, fms hd clutch, Mac coldair fenderwell, Mac h-pipe, supercoil, ADS chip, 160 stat, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs.
Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks)
Best mph: 98.17
Best 60': 1.9607

someday mods:4.10's, slicks.

6T9PONY · 09-19-2001, 06:48 PM

Vector...295/50s....nuff said....

------------------
Previously "BennyBoy"
'69 Coupe with 351W-I rolled it 8/8
Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, C4: shift kit, 9" Currie: Trac-Lok 3.70s, 290hp-stock heads

09-19-2001, 07:57 PM

Stall converter......gears......and what rpm are you launching at??? P.S. remember that practice makes perfect

------------------
'90 LX 5.0;12K original miles (no sh*&);3.55 gears; March pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads;BBK 1 5/8" equal length shorties;MSD 6AL ignition w/ blaster 2 coil;FMS E303 cam;Pro-M 75mm MAF;BBK 70mm TB; Eibach drag-launch spring kit;Southside welded subs;9" K&N cone filter charger;Hurst shifter;Cervini's 3" turbo hood;A/C delete; gutted cats;2 chamber Flomasters;Corbeau racing seats;FMS 30# injectors;JMS chip; Holley 190lb fp;TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113 - 1.78 60')

09-18-2001, 09:20 AM	#1
isaacGT91 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Antonio,TX Posts: 9	why am I slow off the line??? i have a 91 mustang. how do i get faster or quicker off the line with an automatic with a B&M shift kit. engine includes: cobra intake upper-lower(upper ported),Crane ignition kit,70mm throttle,cold air kit,MSD cap-rotor,motorsport wires,computer chip(??),motorsport timing chain....plannig to put 4:10 gears at the rear end.

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09-18-2001, 10:43 AM	#2
mustang17 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Concord, MA, USA Posts: 264	The gears will help a ton. 4.10's are great for an auto. One problem I see is that you have a 70mm TB. That is way too big for your current set up. You must be losing a great deal of low end power, hence the trouble off the line. I'd go with a 65mm unless you going to be doing alot of mods. Some people like the 65mm even with heads,intake,cam, ect. by the way, welcome to Mustangworks! Good luck! ------------------ 1995 GT Black- Edelbrock 6037's,Intake,Edelbrock cam,70mm TB,75mm pro-m,Taylor wires, pulleys,Equal length headers,K&N filter Flowmaster,3.73's, Eibach pro rate springs lower control arms Centerforce clutch New motor in the works!

09-18-2001, 11:44 AM	#3
silver_pilate DURKA DURKA!! Join Date: Sep 1997 Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle) Posts: 1,418	Isaac, You need a higher stalling torque converter. The stock converter stalls around 1500 rpm, well below your 302's powerband. You need a converter stalling around 2500-2800 rpm. I'll tell you this. The converter, by itself, is without a doubt the best single mod I have done. It will get you off the line much more quickly, you will have much better throttle response, and your overall driving experience will become much more enjoyable. My converter is a non lock-up converter. If you want to save a few mpg and aren't necessarily out for absolute street performance, go for a lock-up converter from someone like Precision Industries (the best out there, but pricey at $700), Lentech, or Performance Automatic. Reguardless, you will want to get a tranny cooler to extend tranny life, and you should have one for your AOD anyway. Just remember, often in the case of high performance precision auto parts, you pay for what you get. Don't skimp on it or you will likely regret it. Good luck and if you have any questions, let me know. --nathan ------------------ --silver_pilate '91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods... Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh... --Texas Panhandle-- Check out my site

09-18-2001, 11:55 AM	#4
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	I'll agree completely with Nathan. Gears and converter. If you have the chance, put your car on a chassis dyno. The curves will really show you exactly what your converter is doing. Different converters behave differently. If you've got a real loose converter, it may be costing you ET with too much slip down in the low end. Remember, one dyno curve is worth a thousand words. ------------------ Jeff Chambers Trophy Stock #3 11.462 Seconds / 117.43 MPH Chambers Racing Team

09-18-2001, 12:45 PM	#5
HiFlow5 0 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Springfield, Ma, usa Posts: 706	i don't know about u, but i hate my B&M shift kit, i'm going to install a transgo. i've heard good things about them. go with gears (4.10's)and a stall converter(2800), that will help greatly! ------------------ 89 GT AOD w/ shift kit, B&M rachet shifter, Trickflow intake, Crane (E-type) cam, 70Tb, 75MAF, 1.6 Rockers, Pulleys, MAC headers and H-pipe, Dynomax mufflers, K&N, 3 core radiator, white face gauges, custom interior, cobra R rims MY89GT

09-19-2001, 12:08 AM	#6
6T9PONY All about the Windsor. Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 2,052	I really like my B&M shift kit. With 3.70 gears and 295/50/15s in back I'd chirp 2nd just about every time I was running it hard on that shift. I don't recommend going around a turn on a shitty street and letting it kickdown. It may cause a wreck. I know this. ------------------ Previously "BennyBoy" '69 Coupe with 351W-I rolled it 8/8 Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, C4: shift kit, 9" Currie: Trac-Lok 3.70s, 290hp-stock heads

09-19-2001, 12:47 AM	#7
Vector Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Comox, BC, Canada Posts: 119	6T9PONY, I can chirp 2nd easy in my step-mom's '92 AOD Convertible, all stock 2.73s

09-19-2001, 04:32 PM	#8
90dpscoupe Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa Posts: 1,407	hey isaac, seems your from sa too, you ever go to the local tracks? you are at a great site now, what these guys said is good info, of course you could always convert to a t-5 lol j/k. ------------------ 90 lx coupe: 5spd, energy susp trans mounts, fms hd clutch, Mac coldair fenderwell, Mac h-pipe, supercoil, ADS chip, 160 stat, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs. Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks) Best mph: 98.17 Best 60': 1.9607 someday mods:4.10's, slicks.

09-19-2001, 06:48 PM	#9
6T9PONY All about the Windsor. Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 2,052	Vector...295/50s....nuff said.... ------------------ Previously "BennyBoy" '69 Coupe with 351W-I rolled it 8/8 Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, C4: shift kit, 9" Currie: Trac-Lok 3.70s, 290hp-stock heads

09-19-2001, 07:57 PM	#10
bada$$lx Guest Posts: n/a	Stall converter......gears......and what rpm are you launching at??? P.S. remember that practice makes perfect ------------------ '90 LX 5.0;12K original miles (no sh*&);3.55 gears; March pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads;BBK 1 5/8" equal length shorties;MSD 6AL ignition w/ blaster 2 coil;FMS E303 cam;Pro-M 75mm MAF;BBK 70mm TB; Eibach drag-launch spring kit;Southside welded subs;9" K&N cone filter charger;Hurst shifter;Cervini's 3" turbo hood;A/C delete; gutted cats;2 chamber Flomasters;Corbeau racing seats;FMS 30# injectors;JMS chip; Holley 190lb fp;TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113 - 1.78 60')