Bad valve guide?

Hozer 88GTConv · 01-23-2004, 08:38 AM

Does a bad valve guide get progressively worse?
Motor is consuming oil now at a rate of 1 quart every two hundred miles, but no smoke. Number five plug is coated with oil and I swap it out every month. I just don't have the time to pull the heads now.
My question is am I doing any more damage? I don't no if it is a valve seal or guide but that is what I suspect. Again, no smoke at all.
I think if I pull the heads I am just going to go with AFR's.

QuantumMotorsports · 01-23-2004, 10:28 AM

The valve guide itself doesn't keep oil from entering the chamber. That's what the seal does. The guide keeps the valve centered in the seat and allows it to slide up and down. If the seal is going bad, not much you can do to help it without pulling the valve spring on that cylinder and replacing the seal. It could also be the rings on that cylinder. I won't hurt to drive the car that way though. If you're going to have a valve job and new seals put on later, it won't make any difference how long you drive it.

Hozer 88GTConv · 01-23-2004, 10:32 AM

The motor is less than 20k old from a complete rebuild.
My only thing about bad rings is wouldn't it smoke?
I mean it doesn't smoke at all, never.
Would that lead you to believe it was a bad seal?
If it is a bad seal, I should be able to get at it from the top with out pulling the head right? I just need to push some air into the cylinder so I don't drop the valve right?

Also, what are the chances that I spun the valve?

Thanks

Dark_5.0 · 01-23-2004, 01:26 PM

"Also, what are the chances that I spun the valve?"

I have never heard this term, but it sounds like piston rings or valve seals to me.

429mustang · 01-23-2004, 02:20 PM

You could probably just put the piston at TDC on that cylinder so it doesn't fall out of the head, it's just a little harder to hold the valve when putting the retainer/lock back on. I had to do it with every one after I put my motor back together on a stand, I forgot to install either the seals or shims, I forget but it wasn't very hard.

Hozer 88GTConv · 01-23-2004, 02:38 PM

I am going to put number 5 at TDC tonight and pull the valve cover off.
I'll try to hold the valve stem up anyway with a pair of really long needle nose pliers and hopefully there will be a valve seal that has risen up the valve stem.
Thanks for the tips guys.
I'll let you know.

Coupe Devil · 01-23-2004, 03:14 PM

You can buy the tool that plugs into an air line and screws into teh spark plug hole relatively cheap (like 14 bucks ) a tool everyone should have. And then you can just pressurize the cylinder with air. WORKS SO MCUH BETTER..

01-23-2004, 08:38 AM	#1
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	Bad valve guide? Does a bad valve guide get progressively worse? Motor is consuming oil now at a rate of 1 quart every two hundred miles, but no smoke. Number five plug is coated with oil and I swap it out every month. I just don't have the time to pull the heads now. My question is am I doing any more damage? I don't no if it is a valve seal or guide but that is what I suspect. Again, no smoke at all. I think if I pull the heads I am just going to go with AFR's. __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

01-23-2004, 10:28 AM	#2
QuantumMotorsports Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA Posts: 597	The valve guide itself doesn't keep oil from entering the chamber. That's what the seal does. The guide keeps the valve centered in the seat and allows it to slide up and down. If the seal is going bad, not much you can do to help it without pulling the valve spring on that cylinder and replacing the seal. It could also be the rings on that cylinder. I won't hurt to drive the car that way though. If you're going to have a valve job and new seals put on later, it won't make any difference how long you drive it. __________________ Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites

01-23-2004, 10:32 AM	#3
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	Interesting... The motor is less than 20k old from a complete rebuild. My only thing about bad rings is wouldn't it smoke? I mean it doesn't smoke at all, never. Would that lead you to believe it was a bad seal? If it is a bad seal, I should be able to get at it from the top with out pulling the head right? I just need to push some air into the cylinder so I don't drop the valve right? Also, what are the chances that I spun the valve? Thanks __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy Last edited by Hozer 88GTConv; 01-23-2004 at 01:08 PM..

01-23-2004, 01:26 PM	#4
Dark_5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Staging lane Posts: 4,337	"Also, what are the chances that I spun the valve?" I have never heard this term, but it sounds like piston rings or valve seals to me. __________________ 92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer

01-23-2004, 02:20 PM	#5
429mustang Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: westerville, OH USA Posts: 618	You could probably just put the piston at TDC on that cylinder so it doesn't fall out of the head, it's just a little harder to hold the valve when putting the retainer/lock back on. I had to do it with every one after I put my motor back together on a stand, I forgot to install either the seals or shims, I forget but it wasn't very hard. __________________ 1990 Notchback: BBK Ceramic Coated Full length headers, Dr. Gas 3"- 2 1/2" x-pipe, Flowmaster 40's/turndowns.

01-23-2004, 02:38 PM	#6
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	Tonight I am going to put number 5 at TDC tonight and pull the valve cover off. I'll try to hold the valve stem up anyway with a pair of really long needle nose pliers and hopefully there will be a valve seal that has risen up the valve stem. Thanks for the tips guys. I'll let you know. __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

01-23-2004, 03:14 PM	#7
Coupe Devil Moderator Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Myrtle Beach SC Posts: 1,643	You can buy the tool that plugs into an air line and screws into teh spark plug hole relatively cheap (like 14 bucks ) a tool everyone should have. And then you can just pressurize the cylinder with air. WORKS SO MCUH BETTER.. __________________ 1990 GT, 347, TFS TW Heads, TFS Cam, TFS Track heat, Twin turbos, FMIC, T5. Built Ford Tough Moderator

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