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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Altoona, PA
Posts: 336
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![]() The stock clutch fan on my dad's 91GT was cracked and he wanted to upgrade to an electric one. I told him to just swap in an electric fan from a 94-up stang. After posting this on the web, it was suggested that he also upgrade the alt to a 130amp unit. Well we went to the salvage yard today and got an electric fan from a 2.3L ford tempo and a 130 amp alt. from a 94 3.8L stang. Now we looked at tons of fans, but they all looked the same in terms of the motor and blades, but the housing was the only thing that was different so we picked up the nicest one. We don't plan on using the housing anyway. Now the alt. had the same part number as one from a 94-95GT, and we were told it too was a 130amp unit. Now I've seen post before about having to upgrade some wire when putting in a higher amp alt., otherwise it may melt. What steps need to be taken to install the alt, and which wire needs to be bigger? Anyone know?
------------------ 95 GT convt' 5 speed, 3.73's,FMS HD clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, ASP alum. underdrive pulleys, Bassani offroad X pipe, 2 chmbr flowmasters, K&N w/o silencer, edelbrock performer intake, FRPP 65mm T-body, FRPP shorty headers, FRPP aluminum driveshaft.Hooker 4pt chrome car bar, Xenon/Wings West ground effects, custom interior Best ET: 13.83 Best MPH: 98.55mph with Best 60': 1.91 on Nitto DR's Homepage: <A HREF="http://www.angelfire.com/pa2/killercanary" TARGET=_blank>http://www.angelfire |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Newnan, GA, UnitedStates
Posts: 83
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![]() I just ordered a new 130amp alt for my 92 and should have it in a week,it comes with a harness so if no one else gives you an answer I let you know.Im sure someone will beat me to it though.
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#3 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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![]() At my local alt/starter rebuild shop they recommended the 130 amp alt when our alt went out in one of our plow trucks. They gave us a little sheet that explains how to do it.
You just splice the two black with orange stripes wires (from original plug for original alt) together and crimp (a better idea is to solder a wire to the two wires and then solder a ring terminal onto the one wire, but this other way will work too) a ring terminal on the end and connect it to the big post on the alt. Next you cut the small white wire away from the original plug and connect it to a clip from the new alt (this is the regulator wire). This little clip might or might not be on the alt. Sometimes junkyards just cut and pull so they might have left the clip on the alt. The clip is a little grey clip that a single wire goes into and it plugs into the regulator. If not go to the local alt rebuild shop and ask for a clip for the regulator for a Ford 3G 130 amp alt, they should have them. Also there are not threads in the new alt body so you will need a bolt and nut with some lockwashers to fasten the top of the alt. Some people said that the new alt needs some trimming to fit, on my plow truck it didn't need trimming, but it is a different setup. Hope this helps and someone can chime in and confirm this. Jason ------------------ 88GT stock shortblock, GT-40 iron heads, Edlebrock Performer intake, 24# inj, Pro-M 75mm Bullet MAM, 3.73, hurst short throw, F-303, electric fan, alum rad, FMS HD clutch, R134a ac conversion, 70mm TB , and some other stuff I probably forgot, 13.02@106 with a 1.87 60ft |
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#4 |
Dirk Diggler
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: SLOATSBURG, NY
Posts: 1,931
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![]() might i suggest running a 4ga wire to the starter soloniond and junk all the old wires..i got mine setup nice..also try to use wleding cable when u do it..it is the best stuff out there and its not expensive..i also would suggest if you ever wanted to put the battery in the trunk then to use 1/0 gauge welding cable..one of my favorite mods..never knew how i did without..i dont got any elctrical problems with that baby upfront and a nice size chevy truck sidemount in the trunk
------------------ 1987 black notch(ex 4 banger) DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one.. AIM=onesillynotch |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Altoona, PA
Posts: 336
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![]() Thanks guys, that helps alot. It seems complicated- is it?
------------------ 95 GT convt' 5 speed, 3.73's,FMS HD clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, ASP alum. underdrive pulleys, Bassani offroad X pipe, 2 chmbr flowmasters, K&N w/o silencer, edelbrock performer intake, FRPP 65mm T-body, FRPP shorty headers, FRPP aluminum driveshaft.Hooker 4pt chrome car bar, Xenon/Wings West ground effects, custom interior Best ET: 13.83 Best MPH: 98.55mph with Best 60': 1.91 on Nitto DR's Homepage: <A HREF="http://www.angelfire.com/pa2/killercanary" TARGET=_blank>http://www.angelfire |
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#6 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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![]() No, just make sure you disconnect the battery cable (duh, but I almost forgot to do it). The plow truck we put the 130 amper on is still working fine. Plowed a few times this winter, and the plow moves faster than when the plow was new (it is 7 years old).
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