Skyman..Now if he has a manual transmission there is no power loss..Although I do agree that there wont be any site of 310rwhp. I doubt there will even be 300hp..

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347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Cobra Computer, Cobra Transmission, GT40 Ported and Polished Upper and Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, March Underdrive Pulleys, Electric Fan, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, NGK Plugs, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 77mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, High Tolerant Painted Calipers and Drums.

The driveline on a T-5 manually equipped car will cost the motor about 17% of it's power. Why do you think the tranny fluid, bearings, rear end oil, and all the other components get hot? Friction. There is a lot of it, even with a manual equipped car.

An AOD-E automatic version would cost 22%.

I don't know why I came up with 310rwhp, I just started defending my decision without really looking at it. I wasn't even really paying attention to the amount of flow they'd need to make I guess?

Basically what I would be asking is for the stock heads to flow an additional 67% or 150hp, and like I posted on another topic (just never made it back to this one) for that to happen it would take me a week of calculus, and a bucket of JB weld. http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...rd/redface.gif

Sorry if I offended any one, I really jumped on SaleenGTS and Killercanary without thinking about my post. Guess I got a little automatic ego inflation going or something http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...oard/smile.gif so I didn't do the math or analyze the combo from a physics standpoint.

Anyway, what does a set of GT-40 irons go for? Last time I checked I think I saw some for about $200/set used. I'm still thinking it's a lot to ask for sure, especially with iron heads, but I think he should be able to make closer to 300rwhp with that combo.

Also, from what I've heard the GT-40X aluminum heads work great with the F-303. I've done some more research on the F-303 as well, it's a good blower cam, but for the most part, unless it's matched real well to a N/A combo, people don't seem to like it at all.

So am I just wasting my time screwing around with these stock heads? I didn't want to spend any more than I had to on them because I was wanting to go with some aluminums when the cash flow permitted.

If I went with GT-40 irons my headers would still bolt up wouldn't they? And are they a direct bolt on? How much HP would I gain using those over the stock ported heads with this combo?

Thanks!

2fastlx, I have some windsor jr. irons that I could get rid of for a good price if you are interested. The intake has a gasket match, and the exhaust has some porting done to them. They took me to a 11.8 so these should get you where you want to be.

Unit, no offense taken, I love wxpressing my opinion, that is what God invented them for http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...oard/smile.gif

2fast- If you plan on getting aluminum heads in the future, why not use the money you would buy the GT-40's with and save it towards a set? IMO, you'd only be wasting your money in that situation. I know it is hard living with stock heads. My Cobra I just bought feels like a snail compared to my last car that had TFS TW's.

It is up to you. The GT-40 Irons(Cobra Heads)will get you about 25-35 more hp....nothing to brag about, but hp is hp. The "P" heads are a little better, but only work the best with GT-40 componets. You will need different headers with those. I think thise put out about 35 more hp, but have more potential than the Cobra heads.

Good Luck

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Dustin
1993 Cobra #1926

Bassani Full lengths,Bassani short X-pipe, American thunder Cat back, 3.55's. More to come...

Thanks SaleenGTS. I guess I'll just use the stockers for now. I should gain a bit of HP out of them with the porting I am doing and the 3 angle valve job. Thanks a lot guys.

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Hey guys, sorry I'm coming in a little late on this post...but here are some stats on my 91 Coupe w/BFG Drag Radials (just to help gauge performance)

1991 LX Coupe 5.0
3040 lbs. w/o driver, 3250 with driver
3.55's, shifter (T5), pulleys, TFS TW heads ported to stage 2 (flow #'s - 206/272 @.500"), steeda #19 cam (480/480), 24# injectors, GT40 intake, 65 mm TB, 75 MAF.

With this combo, I run consistent 13.2's @ 105 or 106 mph with a 2000 rpm "slip of the clutch" method of launch and 2.1 60's (Yes, I know, these really suck!)

Anyways, on the dnyo a couple months ago (with no tuning whatsoever):

289 RWHP
312 RWTQ

Hope this helps as some sort of baseline.
E

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1991 5.0 LX Coupe -37,800 miles

13.17 @ 106.14 mph w/ 2.138 60'

Pro-Charger D-1SC on the way!!!

Well it looks likt I'll have to settle for 13 second times then. Maybe even low 14's if I can't get traction by then =P

I'm going to yank everything out of the car permanently like the carpet in the hatch, rear seat, and all the stuff I don't need to get rid of as much weight as I can.

This is off topic but I'm also going to get a set of DR's or slicks. Anyone used Hoosier slicks before? What do you recommend? Thanks again.