advice needed on buying a 5.0

Will G · 02-07-2001, 12:33 AM

Hi this is my first post here...
I own a 1991 Camaro Z28, which im very close to having sold, im looking to go back to the mustang (last car was an 88 LX 4 banger), i dont have anything against the camaro, but im feeling drawn back to the Fox Body for some reason...anyhow I've narrowed it down to 91-93 LX hatcback T-5 or GT T-5.
I know the notchback is suppossed to be a little faster, but i like the hatch...anyhow, there are a few im looking at and i would appreciate advice on what to look for in spotting problems, anything ford specific (like how small block chevy's are know for puffing smoke on startup, or how LT-1's are known to leak oil from the front of the intake manifold)

thanks

------------------
-Will
1991 Camaro Z28
350/5.7 TPI
TH700-R4 auto

90dpscoupe · 02-07-2001, 01:26 AM

Don't fight the forces dude?

im an ex t/a owner, but the fox is always drawed me back too, yea i was looking for a lx hatch, but had a hard time, and on a choice from an aod hatch, and a 5spd coupe, i love my notch now, but any 5oh will do.

Mine has a record of maintenance, and old THP car, i knew it was taken care of somewhat, but i wont say they arent prone to anything like you mentioned "leaking" oil...ect, but i have nothing but good luck, but had 1 fuel pump go out, which is usualy pretty frequent on 86-93 stangs, had my car over a yr, it has 170K now on it, running 13.9 ,and only a whining tranny, which needs a rebuild from hard powershifts.

------------------
90 lx coupe: Mac cold air fenderwell, accel supercoil,advncd ignition,3-core radiatr, FMS alum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs, 3chbr flows.
Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks)
Best mph: 97.80
Best 60': 2.0047

next mods: subframes, mac h-pipe

02-07-2001, 02:59 AM

This goes for buying ANY car:

1)Check the maintanence records,you want to know how well the car has been taken care of/or not taken care of

2)Check body panel spacing making sure all the spacing between the fenders & doors are the same,etc.If they aren't,ask the owner if the vehicle has ever had any damage resulting from a accident.Make sure and look down the side of the car for any noticable imperfections in the body itself.

3)Test drive the car and see how it behaves in town AND out on the highway paying attention to how well the car steers and listening for any odd noises(rear-end howling,rattling noises,etc)

4)Check underneath the car for any visible leakage from the transmission,rear-end.You might to on this step,take the car to a place(mechanic's garage) where you can get the car up onto a lift so you can actually see how everything looks.

These are some things to check,I'm sure others will give you some more ideas

------------------
Paxton Blown 87GT

2FastLX · 02-07-2001, 12:59 PM

Mustanguy pretty much covered all the important stuff. Do the body panel inspection as he mentioned. Very important. Check especially around the hood and front fenders for the gap between them. Most cars that are bent will have the damage in the front end.

And don't forget to check the radiator for oil residue and the dipstick for that milky brown stuff. Those would be signs of a bad head gasket.

Unit 5302 · 02-07-2001, 02:14 PM

Mustang specific problems?

Check the torque boxes. They are what holds the lower control arms of the axle to the car's body. If the car has been beaten with slicks, you may notice they have broken their welds loose.

Several people have complained of the front floorboards being weak and prone to rusting, you may want to check that area as well.

Oil leaking from the back of the engine is going to signal a leaky rear main seal.

Check the power steering fluid, if it looks grayish or milky the rack could be worn.

Check the back of the hatch, lift it up and look at the underside where the latch is. Those are prone to rusting more than any other place on the body.

Take a look at the exhaust, make sure it's not all monkeyed up. It's a total PITA if some guy has cut the H-pipe off before the flange connectors.

Moisture inside the headlights signals a broken seal, if they are yellowed on the outside you can fix that.

take a look under the instrament panel, always a good idea to find out if some reject has been wiring up the car.

Take a look at the wheel wells in the quarter panels. The quarter panel lip should be rust free, and you should pay careful attention to the area as it's the most expensive part to fix when it rusts.

If you can get a decent peak, take a look at the motor mounts and the tranny mount. The motor mounts are prone to cracking and breakage.

Run it up to operating temp with the radiator cap off and take a look for bubbles in the coolant. If you've got 'em, the head gasket is likely blown. (Not likely to happen)

Turn the defroster on and smell for the sweet tinge of antifreeze. The heater cores are a ***** to change!

Listen to the fuel pump when you turn the ignition on. It should be a quiet whirring sound. It shouldn't whine loudly.

I think that covers almost all of the problems that you might not think to look for. The Mustang is actually a reliable beast for sure, but it never hurts making sure you don't have to make up for somebody else neglecting it.

Will G · 02-07-2001, 03:16 PM

thanks for all the replies!

------------------
-Will
1991 Camaro Z28
350/5.7 TPI
TH700-R4 auto

LOCASH · 02-07-2001, 04:00 PM

Aviod t-tops like the clap.

------------------
86 GT T-tops, AOD, B&M shift kit and hammer shifter, ROH wheels, K&N, Timing,MAC headers, 2.5 off road H, 2.5 American Thunder, 87 spindles, rear disc,SS lines, BBK 1.5, poly bushings, Steeda G-trac and subs, Strut bar.
"DRIVE LIKE YOU STOLE IT!"

NOS_Notch · 02-07-2001, 10:50 PM

I...as a 4th mustang owner, say to get a stang as stock as possible.
That way you know it hasn't been beat.
When you read an ad that says" 400 hp, supercharger, adult owned, never beat, highway miles."
Do you think they put the vortech on to get to work faster???
All stock is good.
Check for the trunk/hatch area.
The lip underneath is a bad spot.
other than that what you see is what you get

------------------
4.10's,long tubes & 75 shot...Goes 12.50's
Check it out at http://www.burnouts.webprovider.com

silver_pilate · 02-08-2001, 09:46 AM

Also, take a look under the hood. Take a close look at the fenders where they bolt to the engine compartment frame. If you see some crumpled up areas with rust, you can pretty much bet it's been hit. Also, any collision will usually chip the paint off on those edges.

Another area to look at is the radiator supports. If it's been wrecked bad enough, they likley had to be replaced. Since it takes a fat daddy spot welder to weld them like factory, most places drill a hole through the frame and support and weld around the hole.

Other than that, it should idle smoothly at around 700 rpms, give or take 100.

Vibrations and highway speeds can be a pain in the rear. Sometimes it could be worn tires in need of balance, or it could be engine mounts, driveshaft, flywheel, etc....pain in the rear to track down. Keep that in mind.

Happy hunting.

--nathan

------------------
--silver_pilate

'91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods...

Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh...
--Texas Panhandle--
Check out my site

Skankin · 02-08-2001, 11:59 AM

Buy a 4 banger with a good body, and drop in the engine you really want.

02-08-2001, 12:53 PM

Yea, also check the doors for excess hang. The Fox doors are long and heavy and are prone to drop when opened.
Other than that I think the others covered it.

Green92LX · 02-08-2001, 01:00 PM

I agree with NOS, try to get one as stock as possible. It will cost you more to do the upgrades yourself, but you will rest assured that the car wasn't beat as bad as it would have been with mods...plus whats the fun of buying a car the way you want it....the fun is getting your hands dirty!!!

------------------
1992 5.0 LX, Edelbrock 6037 Heads, Cobra Intake,E-303, 1.6 Roller Rockers,65MM Holley TB, 75 MM Pro M Mass Air, 190 LPH FP w/ 24 lb injectors,BBK equal length shorties,offroad h-pipe,Mac Flowpath Mufflers, Pro 5.0, 3.73's,Motorsport "C" springs,welded subframe connectors, Ponies w/ 225/50 Nittos, 93 Cobra Spoiler

Daily driver: 89 Coupe with 205K plus, BBK shorties,offroad h-pipe,2-chamber flowmasters with dumps, cut and welded stock shifter...and it runs like a champ.

Will G · 02-08-2001, 04:18 PM

yeah when i bought the Z i tried to find one as stock as possible, mine had a flowmaster cat-back and that was it, i found out after the fact that it had been wrecked (whoever put it back together did a dandy job)

------------------
-Will
1991 Camaro Z28
350/5.7 TPI
TH700-R4 auto

02-07-2001, 12:33 AM	#1
Will G Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Jacksonville,FL Posts: 7	advice needed on buying a 5.0 Hi this is my first post here... I own a 1991 Camaro Z28, which im very close to having sold, im looking to go back to the mustang (last car was an 88 LX 4 banger), i dont have anything against the camaro, but im feeling drawn back to the Fox Body for some reason...anyhow I've narrowed it down to 91-93 LX hatcback T-5 or GT T-5. I know the notchback is suppossed to be a little faster, but i like the hatch...anyhow, there are a few im looking at and i would appreciate advice on what to look for in spotting problems, anything ford specific (like how small block chevy's are know for puffing smoke on startup, or how LT-1's are known to leak oil from the front of the intake manifold) thanks ------------------ -Will 1991 Camaro Z28 350/5.7 TPI TH700-R4 auto

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02-07-2001, 01:26 AM	#2
90dpscoupe Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa Posts: 1,407	Don't fight the forces dude? im an ex t/a owner, but the fox is always drawed me back too, yea i was looking for a lx hatch, but had a hard time, and on a choice from an aod hatch, and a 5spd coupe, i love my notch now, but any 5oh will do. Mine has a record of maintenance, and old THP car, i knew it was taken care of somewhat, but i wont say they arent prone to anything like you mentioned "leaking" oil...ect, but i have nothing but good luck, but had 1 fuel pump go out, which is usualy pretty frequent on 86-93 stangs, had my car over a yr, it has 170K now on it, running 13.9 ,and only a whining tranny, which needs a rebuild from hard powershifts. ------------------ 90 lx coupe: Mac cold air fenderwell, accel supercoil,advncd ignition,3-core radiatr, FMS alum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs, 3chbr flows. Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks) Best mph: 97.80 Best 60': 2.0047 next mods: subframes, mac h-pipe

02-07-2001, 02:59 AM	#3
Mustanguy Guest Posts: n/a	This goes for buying ANY car: 1)Check the maintanence records,you want to know how well the car has been taken care of/or not taken care of 2)Check body panel spacing making sure all the spacing between the fenders & doors are the same,etc.If they aren't,ask the owner if the vehicle has ever had any damage resulting from a accident.Make sure and look down the side of the car for any noticable imperfections in the body itself. 3)Test drive the car and see how it behaves in town AND out on the highway paying attention to how well the car steers and listening for any odd noises(rear-end howling,rattling noises,etc) 4)Check underneath the car for any visible leakage from the transmission,rear-end.You might to on this step,take the car to a place(mechanic's garage) where you can get the car up onto a lift so you can actually see how everything looks. These are some things to check,I'm sure others will give you some more ideas ------------------ Paxton Blown 87GT

02-07-2001, 12:59 PM	#4
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	Mustanguy pretty much covered all the important stuff. Do the body panel inspection as he mentioned. Very important. Check especially around the hood and front fenders for the gap between them. Most cars that are bent will have the damage in the front end. And don't forget to check the radiator for oil residue and the dipstick for that milky brown stuff. Those would be signs of a bad head gasket.

02-07-2001, 02:14 PM	#5
Unit 5302 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 5,246	Mustang specific problems? Check the torque boxes. They are what holds the lower control arms of the axle to the car's body. If the car has been beaten with slicks, you may notice they have broken their welds loose. Several people have complained of the front floorboards being weak and prone to rusting, you may want to check that area as well. Oil leaking from the back of the engine is going to signal a leaky rear main seal. Check the power steering fluid, if it looks grayish or milky the rack could be worn. Check the back of the hatch, lift it up and look at the underside where the latch is. Those are prone to rusting more than any other place on the body. Take a look at the exhaust, make sure it's not all monkeyed up. It's a total PITA if some guy has cut the H-pipe off before the flange connectors. Moisture inside the headlights signals a broken seal, if they are yellowed on the outside you can fix that. take a look under the instrament panel, always a good idea to find out if some reject has been wiring up the car. Take a look at the wheel wells in the quarter panels. The quarter panel lip should be rust free, and you should pay careful attention to the area as it's the most expensive part to fix when it rusts. If you can get a decent peak, take a look at the motor mounts and the tranny mount. The motor mounts are prone to cracking and breakage. Run it up to operating temp with the radiator cap off and take a look for bubbles in the coolant. If you've got 'em, the head gasket is likely blown. (Not likely to happen) Turn the defroster on and smell for the sweet tinge of antifreeze. The heater cores are a ***** to change! Listen to the fuel pump when you turn the ignition on. It should be a quiet whirring sound. It shouldn't whine loudly. I think that covers almost all of the problems that you might not think to look for. The Mustang is actually a reliable beast for sure, but it never hurts making sure you don't have to make up for somebody else neglecting it.

02-07-2001, 03:16 PM	#6
Will G Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Jacksonville,FL Posts: 7	thanks for all the replies! ------------------ -Will 1991 Camaro Z28 350/5.7 TPI TH700-R4 auto

02-07-2001, 04:00 PM	#7
LOCASH Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Santa Lucia di Budoia, Italy Posts: 217	Aviod t-tops like the clap. ------------------ 86 GT T-tops, AOD, B&M shift kit and hammer shifter, ROH wheels, K&N, Timing,MAC headers, 2.5 off road H, 2.5 American Thunder, 87 spindles, rear disc,SS lines, BBK 1.5, poly bushings, Steeda G-trac and subs, Strut bar. "DRIVE LIKE YOU STOLE IT!"

02-07-2001, 10:50 PM	#8
NOS_Notch Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Fresno,CA. USA Posts: 384	I...as a 4th mustang owner, say to get a stang as stock as possible. That way you know it hasn't been beat. When you read an ad that says" 400 hp, supercharger, adult owned, never beat, highway miles." Do you think they put the vortech on to get to work faster??? All stock is good. Check for the trunk/hatch area. The lip underneath is a bad spot. other than that what you see is what you get ------------------ 4.10's,long tubes & 75 shot...Goes 12.50's Check it out at http://www.burnouts.webprovider.com

02-08-2001, 09:46 AM	#9
silver_pilate DURKA DURKA!! Join Date: Sep 1997 Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle) Posts: 1,418	Also, take a look under the hood. Take a close look at the fenders where they bolt to the engine compartment frame. If you see some crumpled up areas with rust, you can pretty much bet it's been hit. Also, any collision will usually chip the paint off on those edges. Another area to look at is the radiator supports. If it's been wrecked bad enough, they likley had to be replaced. Since it takes a fat daddy spot welder to weld them like factory, most places drill a hole through the frame and support and weld around the hole. Other than that, it should idle smoothly at around 700 rpms, give or take 100. Vibrations and highway speeds can be a pain in the rear. Sometimes it could be worn tires in need of balance, or it could be engine mounts, driveshaft, flywheel, etc....pain in the rear to track down. Keep that in mind. Happy hunting. --nathan ------------------ --silver_pilate '91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods... Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh... --Texas Panhandle-- Check out my site

02-08-2001, 11:59 AM	#10
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	Buy a 4 banger with a good body, and drop in the engine you really want.

02-08-2001, 12:53 PM	#11
mmike Guest Posts: n/a	Yea, also check the doors for excess hang. The Fox doors are long and heavy and are prone to drop when opened. Other than that I think the others covered it.

02-08-2001, 01:00 PM	#12
Green92LX Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: North Haven,CT Posts: 336	I agree with NOS, try to get one as stock as possible. It will cost you more to do the upgrades yourself, but you will rest assured that the car wasn't beat as bad as it would have been with mods...plus whats the fun of buying a car the way you want it....the fun is getting your hands dirty!!! ------------------ 1992 5.0 LX, Edelbrock 6037 Heads, Cobra Intake,E-303, 1.6 Roller Rockers,65MM Holley TB, 75 MM Pro M Mass Air, 190 LPH FP w/ 24 lb injectors,BBK equal length shorties,offroad h-pipe,Mac Flowpath Mufflers, Pro 5.0, 3.73's,Motorsport "C" springs,welded subframe connectors, Ponies w/ 225/50 Nittos, 93 Cobra Spoiler Daily driver: 89 Coupe with 205K plus, BBK shorties,offroad h-pipe,2-chamber flowmasters with dumps, cut and welded stock shifter...and it runs like a champ.

02-08-2001, 04:18 PM	#13
Will G Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Jacksonville,FL Posts: 7	yeah when i bought the Z i tried to find one as stock as possible, mine had a flowmaster cat-back and that was it, i found out after the fact that it had been wrecked (whoever put it back together did a dandy job) ------------------ -Will 1991 Camaro Z28 350/5.7 TPI TH700-R4 auto