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10-21-2001, 08:22 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Panama City, Florida
Posts: 14
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Bad Vibrations
Ever since i owned my 68 stang, there was a big vibration coming from the rear and it makes its way thruogh the steering column and seats. I especially feel it around 40-50 mph.Could it be worn gears,bearings? Please help. It just seems to be getting worse. Thanks
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10-22-2001, 05:01 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: kc,kansas,johnson
Posts: 30
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It can be a lot of things #1 check the input shaft on rear end #2 weel bearings on both sides #3 check the drive shaft it can be bent or out of ballance There is more just start there
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10-22-2001, 07:40 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Oviedo, FL
Posts: 992
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I agree can be anyone of those problems. But, first check the tires.
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10-23-2001, 09:04 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Hampton, Virginia
Posts: 227
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I had a problem similar but at thirty mph. The U-Joint was a little off center on the rear and when I tried to accelerate it would shake and when I let off the cas it would stop. Tires Balanced?
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10-24-2001, 09:10 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 208
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I agree, tires are the quickest and easiest to check. BUT.......I have a question, is this an automatic trans? The reason I ask, is my drive shaft is the cause of a lot of vibration also (it came from a 67 auto car), and I have recently found out that Ford lined the inside of the auto drive shafts with rubber back then to absorb vibration. All well and good back in the 60's, but now that same rubber that made for a smoother ride back then has hardened and cracked and can be loose enough to CAUSE a vibration now.
Good luck. ------------------ 66 GT Fastback,fuel injected 5.0, 5-speed, cable clutch, JBA's and duals, 3.40 gears and handling mods...just call me "Doc" |
10-27-2001, 04:25 AM | #6 |
My poor 79 RIP
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Suisun City,
Posts: 2,320
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another thing to check is the u joints, I've had simular problems with a ranger. this is easy to check somethimes. Just go under your car and see if u can move the driveline around the u-joint area-like up and down motion. Another way to trouble shoot is to put the rear end up on jack stands and drive it like u would, have a friend watch to see what shakes at that speed.
------------------ 66' Mustang 2bbl 289 coupe, stock. 79' Mustang soon to be a 302-selling- 89' Bronco 351w AIRMEN FIRST CLASS KASPAR T. HOWE |
10-27-2001, 08:36 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Clayton, CA USA
Posts: 116
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I also had the same vibration problem. The rubber in my driveshaft was all cracked and corroded. I had it balanced a few times and that helped temporarly. I finally gave in and bought an aluminum driveshaft.
Expensive, but solves the problem. ------------------ '68 convert, 289, C-4, Edelbrock Performer package, Tri-Y headers, 3.25 rear gears |
10-31-2001, 04:39 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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66fastback-
That's great info! Thanks! I never knew that. What years does that apply to? I love learning! Take care, -Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: Peckerwoods Pit Stop My teams site: Jim Porter Racing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. |
10-31-2001, 12:42 PM | #9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 208
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wish I could tell you for sure....just know that Ford did this during the 60's with the automatic equipped cars....I never would have dreamed there was even a difference between driveshafts on auto or stick shift cars.
Sure explains why so many of these cars have drivetrain vibrations now though. ------------------ 66 GT Fastback,fuel injected 5.0, 5-speed, cable clutch, JBA's and duals, 3.40 gears and handling mods...just call me "Doc" |
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