Veterans Help Needed!!! What do I do Next??? Really in need of Advice!!!

Piston · 03-06-2001, 01:13 AM

Need Advice:

Current Mods on my 94GT:

Suspension:
Koni Shocks and Struts (Adjustable). FMS Springs (C Type). Polyurethane bushings all the way around. Hotchkis Upper/Lower Control Arms. 18inch Koni Villans with Nitto Tires. (275x35 in rear 245x40 upfront). Frame Ties.

Tranny:
Tremec 3550 with Kirbin Shifter. FMS Steel Billet Flywheel, FMS Heavy Duty Clutch. Custom Aluminum drive shaft. New Bellhousing. 3.73 Gears.

Motor:
Stock bottom end with 40k miles. Full Tube Headers to off road H-pipe into some mufflers. TFS heads out of box no porting. Edelbrock Upper/Lower Intake (no porting). 70mm TB. 75 Granetelli MAF. BBK Cold Air Induction Kit. 1.7 Rocker Arms. B2 Anderson Cam. 24lb Injectors. Stock fuel pump. I have a 255lph waiting to go in but I fear it’s too big so I’m thinking to get a 195lph. Aeromotive Fuel Regulator.

Miscellaneous:

PMS Computer. MSD Ignition and coil. Motorsport Distributor. Finally got me a 5inch Tach. Line Lock.

Here is my dilemma. I know my stock bottom end will not hold up forever on these parts. So I have been thinking about what the next step should be. The options I have are as good as you guys suggest.

I have considered at DSS block from (www.dssracing.com). I wanted the PRO BULLET 306 block for $1999.99 with the addition of the TFS wedge pistons it’s a little more ($2199 I think). Then I was going to add a windage rage for $109. However, someone has told me that DSS blocks are not as good as they come off. ??? I don’t know I was going to let you guys decide on that one for me. If you have a DSS block and you know they are good let me know. On the other hand if they are shitty like my 3550 tremec can be sometimes please let me know. I was thinking about taking this block to Rick Anderson and having him install it and then tune my PMS on a DYNO. However, if he is way backed up I will have someone else install the block. Then take the car to Rick for tuning. I definitely want Stage 2 Porting no matter which option I go on the upper/lower intake and heads.

The next option was to take the Car to Rick Anderson from the begging and have him build me a block that will hold up to the stress I’m going to put on it. I want reliability and durability from my car. I also want emissions legal (E303 maybe??). That may require a change in cam from what I have now. I know that I need cats to pass, that’s in the works (Anyone know some good high flow cats?).

The last option is anything you guys can brain storm up for me.

Future plans. I really hope I don’t spend too much more making it faster (I’ll be happy with low 12’s or high 11’s on motor. The things I am planning is a cage, brakes, some ET streets, and some rear end work. I may strap on a 100HP shot of nitrous for low 11’s. But besides that I’m good to go. The main thing I’m trying to get out of this is a worry free car. I know that this is not exactly possible but I want to get as close as I can. I want reliable and durable block that’s going to hold up on the stress I’m putting on it.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the lenghty message.

[This message has been edited by Piston (edited 03-06-2001).]

WADS56 · 03-06-2001, 01:37 AM

Low 12's high 11's is not that much to ask from a stock block. The pistons is what the weak link is. You only can do so much with a production block. You say that you are running the anderson B2 cam, Isn't that one of his blower cams? If so and all you want is high 11's I would get a supercharger. You already have the PMS, and if you have Rick tune it He will be able to keep away detonation therefore keeping the hypertectic pistons safe.

------------------
Blown 347 W/Canfield heads, solid roller cam, track times this spring mid 10's or bust

93lx 5.0 daily driver

Mach 1 · 03-06-2001, 04:12 AM

Whats the problem with your stock bottom end? Hold up with what parts? Heads and intake dont put any more stress on your shortblock? You dont need anything and your wasting your money. Run it like it is. If your talking a blower with lots of boost, or over a 150 shot of NOS, then you need to worry, but not now.

------------------
1993 GT/AOD
'93 Mustang GT

03-06-2001, 04:45 AM

I'm with Mach 1 on this..

If you only have 40,000 miles on your stock bottem-end and have no excessive oil use,or low compression problems,then don't worry about anything.

When your motor starts using alotta oil,etc,then look into another shortblock,otherwise your just wasting $$$

------------------
Paxton Blown 87GT

Piston · 03-06-2001, 10:56 AM

So the ideal thing would be to take my car to a shop and get everything ported stage II. Then get it tuned? I know that you guys were saying not to worry about the bottom end but countless of people have said that the heads may cause things to go bad on the bottom end. I'm just overly concerned because I rather fix the problem now and not have to rebuild an engnie from bottom up. Another thing that has me worried is piston to valve clearance. I know it has to be close with this cam.

On top of that I think that I have a valve lash problem. As me and my buddy put the motor together(top end only). I belive that driver side rockers are on good. But on the passanger side one or two are either lose, tapping the vavle cover or they could be fine and the valve cover is too small. Because of the EGR I couldn't fit bigger valve covers on. I know that the rockers were hitting the valve covers because I noticed wear underneath my valve cover. Very slight but noticeable. We have tried setting the lash a couple of times never can get it prefect. I think it's pretty good now but I know it can be better. I'm just worried about floating a valve and such.

To sum it up I'm worried about the added stress on the bottom end. I want to be proactive and fix the potential problems before they happen.

03-06-2001, 01:13 AM	#1
Piston Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 77	Veterans Help Needed!!! What do I do Next??? Really in need of Advice!!! Need Advice: Current Mods on my 94GT: Suspension: Koni Shocks and Struts (Adjustable). FMS Springs (C Type). Polyurethane bushings all the way around. Hotchkis Upper/Lower Control Arms. 18inch Koni Villans with Nitto Tires. (275x35 in rear 245x40 upfront). Frame Ties. Tranny: Tremec 3550 with Kirbin Shifter. FMS Steel Billet Flywheel, FMS Heavy Duty Clutch. Custom Aluminum drive shaft. New Bellhousing. 3.73 Gears. Motor: Stock bottom end with 40k miles. Full Tube Headers to off road H-pipe into some mufflers. TFS heads out of box no porting. Edelbrock Upper/Lower Intake (no porting). 70mm TB. 75 Granetelli MAF. BBK Cold Air Induction Kit. 1.7 Rocker Arms. B2 Anderson Cam. 24lb Injectors. Stock fuel pump. I have a 255lph waiting to go in but I fear it’s too big so I’m thinking to get a 195lph. Aeromotive Fuel Regulator. Miscellaneous: PMS Computer. MSD Ignition and coil. Motorsport Distributor. Finally got me a 5inch Tach. Line Lock. Here is my dilemma. I know my stock bottom end will not hold up forever on these parts. So I have been thinking about what the next step should be. The options I have are as good as you guys suggest. I have considered at DSS block from (www.dssracing.com). I wanted the PRO BULLET 306 block for $1999.99 with the addition of the TFS wedge pistons it’s a little more ($2199 I think). Then I was going to add a windage rage for $109. However, someone has told me that DSS blocks are not as good as they come off. ??? I don’t know I was going to let you guys decide on that one for me. If you have a DSS block and you know they are good let me know. On the other hand if they are shitty like my 3550 tremec can be sometimes please let me know. I was thinking about taking this block to Rick Anderson and having him install it and then tune my PMS on a DYNO. However, if he is way backed up I will have someone else install the block. Then take the car to Rick for tuning. I definitely want Stage 2 Porting no matter which option I go on the upper/lower intake and heads. The next option was to take the Car to Rick Anderson from the begging and have him build me a block that will hold up to the stress I’m going to put on it. I want reliability and durability from my car. I also want emissions legal (E303 maybe??). That may require a change in cam from what I have now. I know that I need cats to pass, that’s in the works (Anyone know some good high flow cats?). The last option is anything you guys can brain storm up for me. Future plans. I really hope I don’t spend too much more making it faster (I’ll be happy with low 12’s or high 11’s on motor. The things I am planning is a cage, brakes, some ET streets, and some rear end work. I may strap on a 100HP shot of nitrous for low 11’s. But besides that I’m good to go. The main thing I’m trying to get out of this is a worry free car. I know that this is not exactly possible but I want to get as close as I can. I want reliable and durable block that’s going to hold up on the stress I’m putting on it. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the lenghty message. [This message has been edited by Piston (edited 03-06-2001).]

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03-06-2001, 01:37 AM	#2
WADS56 gear banger Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: CHICAGO Posts: 1,144	Low 12's high 11's is not that much to ask from a stock block. The pistons is what the weak link is. You only can do so much with a production block. You say that you are running the anderson B2 cam, Isn't that one of his blower cams? If so and all you want is high 11's I would get a supercharger. You already have the PMS, and if you have Rick tune it He will be able to keep away detonation therefore keeping the hypertectic pistons safe. ------------------ Blown 347 W/Canfield heads, solid roller cam, track times this spring mid 10's or bust 93lx 5.0 daily driver

03-06-2001, 04:12 AM	#3
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	Whats the problem with your stock bottom end? Hold up with what parts? Heads and intake dont put any more stress on your shortblock? You dont need anything and your wasting your money. Run it like it is. If your talking a blower with lots of boost, or over a 150 shot of NOS, then you need to worry, but not now. ------------------ 1993 GT/AOD '93 Mustang GT

03-06-2001, 04:45 AM	#4
Mustanguy Guest Posts: n/a	I'm with Mach 1 on this.. If you only have 40,000 miles on your stock bottem-end and have no excessive oil use,or low compression problems,then don't worry about anything. When your motor starts using alotta oil,etc,then look into another shortblock,otherwise your just wasting $$$ ------------------ Paxton Blown 87GT

03-06-2001, 10:56 AM	#5
Piston Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 77	So the ideal thing would be to take my car to a shop and get everything ported stage II. Then get it tuned? I know that you guys were saying not to worry about the bottom end but countless of people have said that the heads may cause things to go bad on the bottom end. I'm just overly concerned because I rather fix the problem now and not have to rebuild an engnie from bottom up. Another thing that has me worried is piston to valve clearance. I know it has to be close with this cam. On top of that I think that I have a valve lash problem. As me and my buddy put the motor together(top end only). I belive that driver side rockers are on good. But on the passanger side one or two are either lose, tapping the vavle cover or they could be fine and the valve cover is too small. Because of the EGR I couldn't fit bigger valve covers on. I know that the rockers were hitting the valve covers because I noticed wear underneath my valve cover. Very slight but noticeable. We have tried setting the lash a couple of times never can get it prefect. I think it's pretty good now but I know it can be better. I'm just worried about floating a valve and such. To sum it up I'm worried about the added stress on the bottom end. I want to be proactive and fix the potential problems before they happen.