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08-20-2002, 10:00 AM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 299
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fuel filter
lets pretend you were to tell a person who knows very little about cars how to change the fuel filter. who can break it down for them. where is it most importantly? how to change it? and how to tell if it is bad or not? amount of time it should take to change??
thank you very much. I will relay the information to the person who needs theirs changed 89 lx convrt thanks for all replies
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction! |
08-20-2002, 11:50 AM | #2 |
Yay for Chickys
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,532
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Ugh thanks for reminding me! I'm over 110K miles with the ORIGINAL filter
And I wonder why the mileage sucks... It will be done this weekend for sure! I promise...really... |
08-20-2002, 12:26 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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Sure, I'll try this one...
Ok the filter is first located under the car in front of the gas tank, it will be gold or silver in color and have a black hose (this will be the fuel line) coming out of each end of it. So two lines. The lines are connected to the filter by a lock pin sortof, you should be able to pull the pins out and remove the fuel lines from the filter. Do not be directly under the filter and lines when you remove them you will end up with a mouthfull of gas, oh and please don't smoke under there while doing this after the lines are unhooked from the filter, the filter will be bolted into the car by some brackets, they will most likely unscrew but most people slide the filter out of the brackets without removing them. Be sure to note the direction of the filter when you take it out, if the new filter doesn't have a direction of flow you will want to put it in the same way the other was. Reconnect the lines and push the pins back in place to hold the lines there. make sure the filter and lines are secured in place and not going to fall out during flight Make sure it is dry under the filter and go prime the pump a few times by turning the key on. After the 3rd time, go back and check for leaks and wet spots under the car where the filter is, if none, then you should be able to crank it now, if there are, try checking he fuel lines again to make sure they were fastened all of the way. There is also a detailed step by step instruction in your Chiltons manual on how to do this. They will suggest disconnecting the negaive cable most likely too. Good luck and let us know how it went!!!!
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08-20-2002, 06:12 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 299
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Thank you USMC302! The step by step directions were perfect. Thanks a lot. It looked pretty rusty, but that could take only a couyple years i guess. anyways maybe this will help with the nitrous problems ive been having (maybe increase the gas mileage too!) I had no problems whatsoever. Thanks again!
Going to the track with first time with nitrous tomorrow! I hope it works!
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90 lx hatch, holley systemax II kit, rebuilt 302, BBK 155 lph fuel pump, pro M bullet mass meter wtih BBk cold air intake, 30 # injectors, 70 mm TB, jacobs ignition system, edelbrock water pump, BBk longtube headers with h-pipe, flowmasters, b&m ripper shifter, 3.55 gears, Proform electric fan, subframe connectors/removed smog pump and ac! 75 shot of nitrous! 13.2 at 112 1/4 mile- no traction! |
08-21-2002, 06:17 AM | #5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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Outstanding to hear, good luck at the track and let us know how you do
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