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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1
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![]() I am having a starting problem with a bone-stock 95 GT. After the car sits for over 10 minutes, it has to crank for an abnormal time (about 5-7 seconds) before it starts. After starting it idles smoothly and runs well. This problem is the same for a cold start. After installing a fuel pressure gauge, I found that the fuel pressure bled off instantly after turning the key off. Replacing the fuel pump eliminated that problem, but the starting problem remains unchanged.
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#2 |
Mustangs
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,938
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![]() Does cycling the key before you start help? If it starts right up after cycling the key one or two times (try cycling slowly to let injectors have maximum spray) i'd suspect the fuel system. If it still doesn't want to start after cycling the key you might have something ignition related (crank sensor, etc.) Have you changed your fuel filter? Especially after replacing your fuel pump (possible debris).
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2005 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300-R 1980 Ford Thunderbird - 255 V8 ported heads, 5.0L ported stock headers, O.R. H-pipe and Flowmaster 2-chambers, dual roller timing chain hi-po Mack Truck hood emblem ![]() 1985 Mustang GT 5.0L T5, F-303, GT40p, headers, off-road h, flowmasters, MSD stuff, etc. Sold 02/06/04 ![]() 1989 Mustang GT ET: 13.304@102.29 mph (5-24-03) Sold - 1998 Mustang Cobra coupe, 1/4 mile - street tires: 13.843@103.41 (bone stock) |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1
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![]() I had the same problem on my 2000 mustang 3.8. I did the usual things like change the plugs and fuel filter but that did not help. It always cranked for 5 to 8 seconds before starting after it had been sitting a while.
The problem long cranking or hard starting problem turned out to be a leak in the hose going from the fuel pump to the fuel tank flange (in the tank). This is a special flex hose that had a pin hole in it. It allowed the pressure to bleed down after a few minutes. You need to drop the tank and remove the flange on the top of the tank to get access to it. I simply replaced the hose with a high quality fuel injector rubber hose and 2 worm screw clamps. To verify this is the problem put a fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve (tire valve stem type of valve) on the fuel rail. (front left corner of the engine on a 3.8 Liter engine). The pressure should be about 30 psi and 40 when just turn the key on. Newer engines do not have this Schrader valve and you will need to put an adaptor in the line somewhere by opening one of the spring clamp fittings... maybe at the fuel filter or on the engine somewhere so you can measure the pressure. You need a special tool to release the spring clamp fittings available at most auto parts stores for a few bucks. I suggest undoing the output line of the fuel filter and slide your pressure gauge onto the fuel filter outlet and then turn the key on to test the pressure. It should remain at 30 psi after you turn the key off. If you have a problem your will note the pressure will bleed down after you turn the key off. If it bleeds down it could only be 3 things. A leaky injector, a bad check valve in the fuel pump or a leak in the hose ... which was my problem. The pressure should be maintained for a long time (in the order of days) after turning the key off. As a work around to keep from cranking so long and killing your starter and battery you can cycle the key on and off a few times to charge the rail before starting. This will give you time to prepare.... and get the tank empty so you can drop the tank easily. If you need to replace the fuel pump Napa sells the fuel pump by itself for $152. Most other auto parts do not stock it. Good Luck. Last edited by wrihar; 01-22-2006 at 04:59 PM.. |
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