head bolts

matt cook · 03-14-2001, 08:37 PM

ok, I'm putting E7TE's on my 82gt. Can stock head bolts be reused. Here's the issue - I don't wanna cough up the money for ARP (this really isn't gonna need them) but cannot find replacement head bolts anywhere. Give me a clue on where to find them and how much they will run.

Also which ones need thread sealant?

Thanks

------------------
1982 Mustang GT

2FastLX · 03-15-2001, 12:37 AM

A general rule for head bolts is to pull the old ones and throw them away. They stretch when you torque them down and I've read that they will not torque down correctly the second time around. I'd be willing to bet that they would be ok for a basically stock engine, but are you willing to risk it?

Also, you will probably pay close to what it costs for ARP bolts no matter where you find any brand. I think Summit sells the ARP bolts pretty cheap so you might check there before you worry too much about emptying your wallet. I'm going through the exact same decision as you right now and I've opted to go ahead and get the ARP studs.

------------------
Indiana Stangers Association
Buy your parts here

NO SLO PK · 03-15-2001, 01:18 AM

Like 2Fast said, definitely save yourself the headache and buy new ARPs. From personal experience, the stock bolts stretch when reused and cause blown head gaskets. Believe me, I learned the hard way, twice!

------------------
'91 LX
Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

poopstang · 03-15-2001, 09:50 PM

i got fel-pro bolts(i think thats what they were, it's been so long) $15 a side

MiracleMax · 03-15-2001, 10:41 PM

Hey are the factory head bolts the "torque to yield" variety?

I say cheap insurance in any event to spring for new head bolts.

Every fastner is designed to stretch. This is what provides the clamping force which retains the bolt, nut, etc. Or rather they are designed to act like a spring. The proper term for this characteristic is reffered to modulous of elasticity (help me out here anybody into mechanical engineering) which refers if I remeber correctly to the elastic and plastic properties of a material. When you torque down a bolt (and it is correctly done) the bolt is stretched out and provides the proper clamping force while still remaining in the elastic state allowing the bolt to return to its original state when removed. If the bolt is over-torqued (or possibly fatigued through shock, thermal cycling, abuse, etc.) then it stretches to the point where it enters the range of plastic deformation and results in a loss of its mechanical properties and niether does it return to its original state. Causing a loss of clamping force.

Better yet think about this when the local tire gorrilla hammers down on your pride and joy with an impact wrench, to "keep the nuts on tight" stretching them out in the process.

03-16-2001, 03:29 AM

after working at a tire store i'd have to say that about 20% of all vehicles either have at least one crossthreaded lug nut, broken stud or are missing a lug nut. There was a guy at my shop that even "torqued" down my wheels and he crossthreaded the lug nuts on my RR wheel (that really pissed me off), i always either used Torque-sticks (long sockets that make sure lug nuts aren't overtorqued by stalling the gun) or a torque wrench. Most tech's at these places don't care because if they do have to fix it they can usually charge for it. I've had to break studs getting wheels off before and you have to get like 200 plus foot pounds on a stud usually before it screws stuff up bad (as a general rule when putting it on)....thank god i quit that crappy job

------------------
'84 Mustang 5.0 T5, FMS aluminum radiator & 180* thermostat, 1 5/8 shortys/2.5" duals, '88 GT tail lights and wheels, Holley 4160 4 BBL, smog pump idler, more coming soon

matt cook · 03-16-2001, 08:35 AM

man, that makes the fel-pro's the same price as ARP? does that make sense?

i figure this our soon enough...

I know that the ARP have different torque specs than stock - do they come with good directions on this?

thanks

------------------
1982 Mustang GT

Green92LX · 03-16-2001, 08:45 AM

The ARP Head Bolts do come with specs, but I followed specs from a well-known engine builder in the area....I just couldn't trust a little piece of folded up pink paper tucked in the box...

I can't remember the exact numbers cause its been so long, but I'm sure somebody else can help with that...

------------------
1992 5.0 LX, V-1 S-Trim @8LBS, Edelbrock 6037 Heads, Cobra Intake,E-303, 1.6 Roller Rockers,65MM Holley TB, 75 MM Pro M Mass Air, 190 LPH FP w/ 24 lb injectors,MSD 6A and BTM, BBK equal length shorties, offroad h-pipe,Mac Flowpath Mufflers, Pro 5.0, 3.73's,Motorsport "C" springs,welded subframe connectors, Ponies w/ 225/50 Nittos, Dark Green w/ 93 Cobra Spoiler

Daily driver: 89 Coupe with 207K plus, BBK shorties,offroad h-pipe,2-chamber flowmasters with dumps

poopstang · 03-16-2001, 05:00 PM

save yourself the trouble dude and get new bolts, believe me i've went through a couple of blow head gaskets it's not fun. specially when it's a daily driver.

03-14-2001, 08:37 PM	#1
matt cook Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Richmond, Virginia Posts: 449	head bolts ok, I'm putting E7TE's on my 82gt. Can stock head bolts be reused. Here's the issue - I don't wanna cough up the money for ARP (this really isn't gonna need them) but cannot find replacement head bolts anywhere. Give me a clue on where to find them and how much they will run. Also which ones need thread sealant? Thanks ------------------ 1982 Mustang GT

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03-15-2001, 12:37 AM	#2
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	A general rule for head bolts is to pull the old ones and throw them away. They stretch when you torque them down and I've read that they will not torque down correctly the second time around. I'd be willing to bet that they would be ok for a basically stock engine, but are you willing to risk it? Also, you will probably pay close to what it costs for ARP bolts no matter where you find any brand. I think Summit sells the ARP bolts pretty cheap so you might check there before you worry too much about emptying your wallet. I'm going through the exact same decision as you right now and I've opted to go ahead and get the ARP studs. ------------------ Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here

03-15-2001, 01:18 AM	#3
NO SLO PK Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Arcadia, CA, USA Posts: 731	Like 2Fast said, definitely save yourself the headache and buy new ARPs. From personal experience, the stock bolts stretch when reused and cause blown head gaskets. Believe me, I learned the hard way, twice! ------------------ '91 LX Procharger, 3 row intercooler, extrude honed Cobra intake, Mac full Length Headers, 30# inj., 73mm C&L, 75mm tb, E303 cam, 289 rods, ported E7 heads, MSD, T-Rex w/255 lph Walbro, 5 lug conversion, Cobra R wheels, 3.27 gears and Moser Axles.

03-15-2001, 09:50 PM	#4
poopstang Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: palmbayFL Posts: 184	i got fel-pro bolts(i think thats what they were, it's been so long) $15 a side

03-15-2001, 10:41 PM	#5
MiracleMax Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Hayes, Va, USA Posts: 798	Hey are the factory head bolts the "torque to yield" variety? I say cheap insurance in any event to spring for new head bolts. Every fastner is designed to stretch. This is what provides the clamping force which retains the bolt, nut, etc. Or rather they are designed to act like a spring. The proper term for this characteristic is reffered to modulous of elasticity (help me out here anybody into mechanical engineering) which refers if I remeber correctly to the elastic and plastic properties of a material. When you torque down a bolt (and it is correctly done) the bolt is stretched out and provides the proper clamping force while still remaining in the elastic state allowing the bolt to return to its original state when removed. If the bolt is over-torqued (or possibly fatigued through shock, thermal cycling, abuse, etc.) then it stretches to the point where it enters the range of plastic deformation and results in a loss of its mechanical properties and niether does it return to its original state. Causing a loss of clamping force. Better yet think about this when the local tire gorrilla hammers down on your pride and joy with an impact wrench, to "keep the nuts on tight" stretching them out in the process.

03-16-2001, 03:29 AM	#6
84stang83zephyr Guest Posts: n/a	after working at a tire store i'd have to say that about 20% of all vehicles either have at least one crossthreaded lug nut, broken stud or are missing a lug nut. There was a guy at my shop that even "torqued" down my wheels and he crossthreaded the lug nuts on my RR wheel (that really pissed me off), i always either used Torque-sticks (long sockets that make sure lug nuts aren't overtorqued by stalling the gun) or a torque wrench. Most tech's at these places don't care because if they do have to fix it they can usually charge for it. I've had to break studs getting wheels off before and you have to get like 200 plus foot pounds on a stud usually before it screws stuff up bad (as a general rule when putting it on)....thank god i quit that crappy job ------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 T5, FMS aluminum radiator & 180* thermostat, 1 5/8 shortys/2.5" duals, '88 GT tail lights and wheels, Holley 4160 4 BBL, smog pump idler, more coming soon

03-16-2001, 08:35 AM	#7
matt cook Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Richmond, Virginia Posts: 449	man, that makes the fel-pro's the same price as ARP? does that make sense? i figure this our soon enough... I know that the ARP have different torque specs than stock - do they come with good directions on this? thanks ------------------ 1982 Mustang GT

03-16-2001, 08:45 AM	#8
Green92LX Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: North Haven,CT Posts: 336	The ARP Head Bolts do come with specs, but I followed specs from a well-known engine builder in the area....I just couldn't trust a little piece of folded up pink paper tucked in the box... I can't remember the exact numbers cause its been so long, but I'm sure somebody else can help with that... ------------------ 1992 5.0 LX, V-1 S-Trim @8LBS, Edelbrock 6037 Heads, Cobra Intake,E-303, 1.6 Roller Rockers,65MM Holley TB, 75 MM Pro M Mass Air, 190 LPH FP w/ 24 lb injectors,MSD 6A and BTM, BBK equal length shorties, offroad h-pipe,Mac Flowpath Mufflers, Pro 5.0, 3.73's,Motorsport "C" springs,welded subframe connectors, Ponies w/ 225/50 Nittos, Dark Green w/ 93 Cobra Spoiler Daily driver: 89 Coupe with 207K plus, BBK shorties,offroad h-pipe,2-chamber flowmasters with dumps

03-16-2001, 05:00 PM	#9
poopstang Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: palmbayFL Posts: 184	save yourself the trouble dude and get new bolts, believe me i've went through a couple of blow head gaskets it's not fun. specially when it's a daily driver.