I can't BREATHE!

[PNYXPS66]

Got an 88 2300 that just got a heart transplant (cam) with 1.89 and 1.59 valves. Car runs great - just put Y-ed dual exhaust 2.25" (mainly for looks ). Need suggestions for airflow issues. Still have stock TB and stuff. This is a speed sensor vehicle not MAF. Cam is "mildly radical' as large as you can go with emmissions -( 401 - 410 lift, 112 center, don't remember duration).

Suggestions and ideas other than carburetion to improve airflow?

[Dark_5.0]

I would suggest porting the intake manifold and the exhaust manifold to take advantage of the improved capacity of your cylinder head.

Check out the 4 cylinder head they sell on www.powerheads.com.

[84LX89GT]

Go to www.extrudehone.com, they can send you information about their process. They can make your intake manifold, head, or exhaust manifold flow something like 50% more air. Also go to turbo 2.3L websites, there's lots of info about 2.3L performance and the turbo 2.3L people tend to have a lot of cheap ways to improve the performance of the 2.3L

Also try:
http://www.esslingerengineering.com/
www. racerwalsh.com

there's lots of sites for Thunderbird Turbo Coupes, Mustang SVO and even regular early 80's turbo mustangs and fairmonts.

To convert to mass air - air metering, there's alot you'd have to change including the cylinder head because of the waste spark system they have.
Later 2.3L and 2.5L rangers have a header stock, which would increase power a bit. Also, notice that big "FORD" muffler in the middle of the intake tract between your throttle body and air cleaner housing......pull it off and cut out the center with an exacto knife. As you may or may not have noticed, the muffler necks down the intake tract from something like 2" down to 1.5". Open that up and you'll feel a bit of power. Best part is, that it's free.

[PNYXPS66]

Thanks for the info folks -

I know about esslinger and RacerWalsh, I bought the springs, valves, etc. from them. I will check out Extrudehone.com for more info.

A friend and I are building a custom header with 5/8" tubes to take advantage of the new volume.

Was over zealous and got head work done before I P-n-P'd head; didn't feel comfortable doing that after getting the new seats, and new valves in there.

<b>Will this be a critical error in performance? If so, what can be done now reduce the "performance damage"? Does anyone know if another TB will fit on the 2300 manifold that is larger in diameter?</b>

Also, made a 3" piece of exhaust pipe to replace the "baffle/silencer" in front of the TB. <b>What's a good insulator?</b>

[84LX89GT]

You can't really undo not porting and polishing a head because it's already bolted on. If you tear apart your engine again there's a whole lot of stuff you can do for fairly cheap (porting/polishing stuff, recontouring). The biggest restriction in those vehicles unfortunately is the entire system. 2.3L's have small ports every where even for a 4 cylinder.
As for an insulator are you talking about for heat? If so, you can get those "heat wraps" that are meant to wrap around exhaust manifolds and turbos meant to keep heat in, and instead use it around the intake to keep heat out of the intake.

[PNYXPS66]

Thanks 84LX for the info. Yes, I want to insulate the intake from the heat generated by the exhaust manifold right underneath! I may build a "heat shield as well as insulate it.

Is a TB for a turbo coupe larger than a standard LX 2300's? Anyone know if it will bolt on?

I ran the car to Macon Ga - about 200 miles away. The car ran great, however, I could feel the air restriction/ timing problems. I will play with the timing, and pray for an answer to the TB question while I continue to reasearch it myself.

Thanks again for all the info folks!

[84LX89GT]

The way i'd figure out if a TB would work is to acquire one and see if it would bolt onto where the stock one would go, or figure out a way to mount it. Then i would take a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) and measure resistance through the TP sensor to make sure the resistance range from idle to wide open throttle is the same (if it's same at WOT, then adjust idle stop accordingly) and figure out how to wire it. You could technically use just about any throttle body, it's mounting it up that should be the hardest part. Every Throttle position sensor is just a variable resistance potentiometer so it'll have a ground circuit, power circuit and signal circuit and you could probably just cut and splice the harness to the new sensor connector if it's not the same.