Starting and Stalling 1988 4-cyl Convt.

ziggy555 · 07-25-2003, 07:29 AM

I have a 1988 Mustang 2.3 Cyl Convertible and I have recently tuned it up replacing the plugs, cap and rotor. About a month later the could turns over but will not start, but eventually does.
When driving the car at random times, the tach will be between 1-3 just rolling along and then it cuts out and drops to 0 and goes back and forth up/down and has stalled as I come to a stop.
I then replaced the fuel filter, same problem. I then replaced the fuel pump regulator under the drivers seat, same problem. I have tried super unleaded with a dry gas additive, same problem. I am thinking its either a spark/ignition or fuel problem? If you have had a similiar problem or have any suggestions that would be great as I am now afraid to take long drives until I resolve this problem... Thanks to all who respond.

Ziggy

must89 · 07-27-2003, 07:58 PM

Hey Ziggy,
I have an 89 2.3L Coupe with the same problem. It idles between 500 and 2000 kinda jittery. Sometimes it'll stall and sometimes it'll just sputter and catch itself. I have been playing with spark plugs and plug wires, different octanes of gas, filters, timing, I even have changed my cam and hydraulic lifters. At this point I'm pretty stumped too. I'll keep working on it though and I'll keep you informed if I find any tricks.

ziggy555 · 07-28-2003, 10:54 PM

must89,

I have done some web searching and found the following:

http://www.coolcats.net/tech/troubleshooting/tfi.html

I have talked to alot of people and most believe its an ignition type problem. I plan to purchase the tfi module and install it.

Good Luck...

Ziggy

Tom Rutledge · 08-12-2003, 07:13 PM

The problem sounds like it's electrical and not fuel.

I would double check the distributor cap and all of the connections. I have also had severe problems with the HEI coils on some of the 3.8's. My auto parts man loaned me a new coil the first time it happened and when it fixed my problem, I paid him for it.

Try a very close examination of the distributor and coil.

ziggy555 · 08-13-2003, 08:01 AM

I do agree its electrical -- I was told by a ford dealer that I should replace the TFI module as well as the stater, which is part of the distributor. I replaced the TFI module and it has drastically reduced the problem, and the car will always start now, but I still have the problem with the tach going up and down. Has anyone ever heard of the stater? What does it do and is it easy to replace? I will double check my cap/wires/plugs etc....

ziggy555 · 08-22-2003, 02:23 PM

FYI.

The next part to replace was the 'stator' known by the dealer, but is called the 'pickup', which is part of the distributor. I had a mechanic replace it for me last week and the car has had not a single problem since.. I beleive the TFI module AND the pickup together solved the problem -- but it was worth trying the TFI first.

-Ziggy

69666420 · 03-12-2007, 07:12 AM

i have a simmiler problem, it used to start/run just fine, sometimes it would go into a really high rev, but would just kick down, and just randomly the engine would like basicaly die, but save its self, and just the other day i fixed the wiring on my alarm, and the car still ran just fine, but then when i went to start it again later on in the day, it wouldnt start at all, ive killed the battery 3 times trying to figure this out, think maybe it could be the same issue?

goodyear1984 · 03-12-2007, 10:11 AM

hey well sounds like the tfi...there was recalls on them from ford my t-bird is the same way...look at this page it show how to check it http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...iagnostic.html

Jeff Chambers · 03-12-2007, 10:44 AM

Weren't the late 80's & early 90's 2.3L Mustangs a DIS (distributorless ignition system)? I don't recall them having a TFI module at all, just a wacky 2-plug-per-cylinder arrangement with dual wasted spark coilpacks. I could see the crankshaft position sensor being the problem though since the coilpacks pick up their crank referece from the reluctor wheel mounted to the crankshaft.

goodyear1984 · 03-12-2007, 11:04 AM

i had a 91 with thw 2 plugs per cyl..idk if that started in 91 or 90... distributor is in a 88 ...ive never had a car run mess up with a bad crank sensor.usally just wont start..how ever just a little info for u guys i know on the 96 and newer (obd2) if u have a bad crank sensor 9 times out of 10 the check engine light will stay on while cranking(no start condition)

TURBOBIRD · 05-17-2008, 03:11 AM

i have an 88 turbo coupe and it does the same thing but only when the weather changes from real hot to real cold or opp.. im pretty sure u have a case of 80's electronics on your hands as well

07-25-2003, 07:29 AM	#1 (permalink)
ziggy555 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Vermont Posts: 4	Starting and Stalling 1988 4-cyl Convt. I have a 1988 Mustang 2.3 Cyl Convertible and I have recently tuned it up replacing the plugs, cap and rotor. About a month later the could turns over but will not start, but eventually does. When driving the car at random times, the tach will be between 1-3 just rolling along and then it cuts out and drops to 0 and goes back and forth up/down and has stalled as I come to a stop. I then replaced the fuel filter, same problem. I then replaced the fuel pump regulator under the drivers seat, same problem. I have tried super unleaded with a dry gas additive, same problem. I am thinking its either a spark/ignition or fuel problem? If you have had a similiar problem or have any suggestions that would be great as I am now afraid to take long drives until I resolve this problem... Thanks to all who respond. Ziggy

07-28-2003, 10:54 PM	#3 (permalink)
ziggy555 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Vermont Posts: 4	follow up must89, I have done some web searching and found the following: http://www.coolcats.net/tech/troubleshooting/tfi.html I have talked to alot of people and most believe its an ignition type problem. I plan to purchase the tfi module and install it. Good Luck... Ziggy

08-12-2003, 07:13 PM	#4 (permalink)
Tom Rutledge Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Houston Posts: 10	The problem sounds like it's electrical and not fuel. I would double check the distributor cap and all of the connections. I have also had severe problems with the HEI coils on some of the 3.8's. My auto parts man loaned me a new coil the first time it happened and when it fixed my problem, I paid him for it. Try a very close examination of the distributor and coil. __________________ TomR

08-13-2003, 08:01 AM	#5 (permalink)
ziggy555 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Vermont Posts: 4	replace TFI I do agree its electrical -- I was told by a ford dealer that I should replace the TFI module as well as the stater, which is part of the distributor. I replaced the TFI module and it has drastically reduced the problem, and the car will always start now, but I still have the problem with the tach going up and down. Has anyone ever heard of the stater? What does it do and is it easy to replace? I will double check my cap/wires/plugs etc....

08-22-2003, 02:23 PM	#6 (permalink)
ziggy555 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Vermont Posts: 4	its Fixed FYI. The next part to replace was the 'stator' known by the dealer, but is called the 'pickup', which is part of the distributor. I had a mechanic replace it for me last week and the car has had not a single problem since.. I beleive the TFI module AND the pickup together solved the problem -- but it was worth trying the TFI first. -Ziggy

07-27-2003, 07:58 PM	#2 (permalink)
must89 Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Chilliwack, B.C. Posts: 29	Hey Ziggy, I have an 89 2.3L Coupe with the same problem. It idles between 500 and 2000 kinda jittery. Sometimes it'll stall and sometimes it'll just sputter and catch itself. I have been playing with spark plugs and plug wires, different octanes of gas, filters, timing, I even have changed my cam and hydraulic lifters. At this point I'm pretty stumped too. I'll keep working on it though and I'll keep you informed if I find any tricks.

03-12-2007, 07:12 AM	#7 (permalink)
69666420 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1	thanks i have a simmiler problem, it used to start/run just fine, sometimes it would go into a really high rev, but would just kick down, and just randomly the engine would like basicaly die, but save its self, and just the other day i fixed the wiring on my alarm, and the car still ran just fine, but then when i went to start it again later on in the day, it wouldnt start at all, ive killed the battery 3 times trying to figure this out, think maybe it could be the same issue?

03-12-2007, 10:11 AM	#8 (permalink)
goodyear1984 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: new york Posts: 289	Re: Starting and Stalling 1988 4-cyl Convt. hey well sounds like the tfi...there was recalls on them from ford my t-bird is the same way...look at this page it show how to check it http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...iagnostic.html __________________ 347 stroker all forged,arp everything,stud mains w/girdle,7qt pan,full roller, custom cam, aluminum heads swirl valves 5 angle valve job.holley pump w/carter pump,cobras w/nitto drags,and m/t et drags for the track, ford racing 373 gears,centerforce clutch,rebuilt world class t5,underdrive pulleys,bassani x-pipe,flowmasters,eibach lowering springs/shocks/struts/swaylinks/swaybar, dvd player and 1,000 watt system 1992 mustang gt 2000 chevy impala 1990 jeep 4x4

03-12-2007, 10:44 AM	#9 (permalink)
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	Re: follow up Weren't the late 80's & early 90's 2.3L Mustangs a DIS (distributorless ignition system)? I don't recall them having a TFI module at all, just a wacky 2-plug-per-cylinder arrangement with dual wasted spark coilpacks. I could see the crankshaft position sensor being the problem though since the coilpacks pick up their crank referece from the reluctor wheel mounted to the crankshaft. __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

03-12-2007, 11:04 AM	#10 (permalink)
goodyear1984 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: new york Posts: 289	Re: Starting and Stalling 1988 4-cyl Convt. i had a 91 with thw 2 plugs per cyl..idk if that started in 91 or 90... distributor is in a 88 ...ive never had a car run mess up with a bad crank sensor.usally just wont start..how ever just a little info for u guys i know on the 96 and newer (obd2) if u have a bad crank sensor 9 times out of 10 the check engine light will stay on while cranking(no start condition) __________________ 347 stroker all forged,arp everything,stud mains w/girdle,7qt pan,full roller, custom cam, aluminum heads swirl valves 5 angle valve job.holley pump w/carter pump,cobras w/nitto drags,and m/t et drags for the track, ford racing 373 gears,centerforce clutch,rebuilt world class t5,underdrive pulleys,bassani x-pipe,flowmasters,eibach lowering springs/shocks/struts/swaylinks/swaybar, dvd player and 1,000 watt system 1992 mustang gt 2000 chevy impala 1990 jeep 4x4

05-17-2008, 03:11 AM	#11 (permalink)
TURBOBIRD Registered Member Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 3	Re: Starting and Stalling 1988 4-cyl Convt. i have an 88 turbo coupe and it does the same thing but only when the weather changes from real hot to real cold or opp.. im pretty sure u have a case of 80's electronics on your hands as well

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