I'm not sure the Steeda sub-frame connectors are full length. I'd ask them first before buying. As far as installation goes, only the sub-frame connectors need to be welded in. The strut tower brace is bolted on. You can do this yourself with a drill and a few other common tools. The sway bars are also bolted on, they should not be much of a problem, but since I have not changed mine, I can not say for sure. If they are difficult to swap out, it will be the ball-joints that cause the issue. I don't know if you will need a special ball-joint tool to remove them. Like the springs, if you swap the rear roll-bar with a stiffer one, the front should probably be changed also. Otherwise, you will disrupt the balance of the car during hard cornering. Stiffer rear bar and stock front bar will cause more weight to be placed on the front suspension in turns because the rear will not roll as much as the front. I don't know what affect this will have on the car, you may want to talk to someone who has experience tuning the suspension on Mustangs. The rear end is lose enough when the road is wet, I wouldn't want to take more weight off the rear.
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99 Mustang 3.8L, C&L mass-air system, GT dual exhust and rear bumper, Maximum Motorsports 4-point K frame brace, full length sub frame connectors and strut tower brace.
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