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Old 02-20-2003, 01:26 AM   #1
cmpcpro
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Default FMX w/ Transgo Shiftkit

Hey all,

I have an FMX in my 69 Cougar, and I put a Transgo shiftkit in it. It shifts very nice now, but when I put it in D it will slip from a stop (But only when it is warm), almost like it is disengaging when it stops. But if I manually shift it, everything is fine.

Does anyone have any ideas? Also, it seemed, I always got some nice second gear chrips/spins, and now I get hardly any, almost like it is slowly getting weaker, but it still feels just as firm as ever.

Thanks!

Chris
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Old 02-20-2003, 12:59 PM   #2
hobgoblin351
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I've got the same kit in my FMX. Is your's a full manual shift? When you say it slips, do you mean it's slipping out ouf drive into neutral? Or that the tranny is slipping? If slipping into neutral re-check the linkage. If your not shifting properly, how old was the tranny when you put the kit in? Did you rebuild the whole thing? The he\ard shifts could be taking their toll on the old clutch pack. New torque conv? At first mine was not shifting into 3rd properly until I realized the new convertor was not filled all the way. The fluid in the pan was going into the conv, leaving none in the pan to shift. Go figure. There is only 1 kit for an FMX tranny so it's not like you could have ordered the wrong one. And, since it shifted right in the first place it was installed correctly.
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1970 Stang Conv:
en:Boss351 (balanced/blueprinted)
mech cam(240*@.050/.540 lift)
Scrw in studs/comp cams rllr rkr
Mldn valves 2.19in 1.71ex
ported polished cc'd hrdnd ex
Keith Black FT pistons(10.25/1)
Weiand Excellorator manifold
Holley700 DP mech 2nds
MSD 6 box and Dis
Headers/2 1/2 inch duels
tr: modified FMX
re:9-inch/3.89 limited slip
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Old 02-20-2003, 02:20 PM   #3
cmpcpro
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Hey there, and thanks for replying to both of my threads. The tranny is the original 1969 tranny. Never been rebuilt as far as I know. It has 97k miles. When it is cold (Below about 150deg) it shifts fine in D. But once it starts getting hotter than that, it somewhat slips. What it does is, when I come to a stop in D, and start to go again, the motor will gain some RPM and then it will kind of drop into gear. Sometimes when I forget to put it back into 1, and leave the green light, it will rev, and drop into gear like I am dropping a clutch, and spinning the tires.

It isn't the manual valvebody kit either. And as for the TC, as far as I know, it's stock too.

I was going to wait, and probably put a C4 in it, before I put the shift kit in an old transmission, but Transgo talked me into it by saying it was better for the transmission, and would make it last longer, so I said what the hell, here's my visa number.

Thanks
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Old 02-20-2003, 07:41 PM   #4
hobgoblin351
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I know this is a silly question but you do have enough fluid in it right? I thought I filled it up and low and behold that was why mine was not shifting into 3rd. I'm no expert when it comes to trannies, I usually send that stuff out. But I figured what the hell try putting in a kit, if you screw it up then pay some one. lol But I put mine into a tranny with under 10,000 miles on it. Your's might just be getting old, or the bands might need to be adjusted? Did you set them right before you closed up the pan?
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1970 Stang Conv:
en:Boss351 (balanced/blueprinted)
mech cam(240*@.050/.540 lift)
Scrw in studs/comp cams rllr rkr
Mldn valves 2.19in 1.71ex
ported polished cc'd hrdnd ex
Keith Black FT pistons(10.25/1)
Weiand Excellorator manifold
Holley700 DP mech 2nds
MSD 6 box and Dis
Headers/2 1/2 inch duels
tr: modified FMX
re:9-inch/3.89 limited slip
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Old 02-20-2003, 07:59 PM   #5
Metal396
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Sorry guys this is alittle Off Topic but it seems like the right time to ask. Do you think i should have a shift kit installed in my FMX, or should i just wait and buy a c-6 and have the stuff done to that ?? From what ive heard is the FMX is ALOT heavier than the C-6... is that true?

And will any aftermarket (like B&M or HURST) shifters hook up to the fmx? they all say they wont, but ya never know. Thats one thing id really like, as dumb as it may sound, i REALLY want a B&M Street Bandit shifter in my car... oh and if i have a shift kit installed, ill have a B&M 2500 stall convertor installed too.

Just wondering if its worth doin this to the FMX or not... it will be easier if i can, but if its really better to wait and get a c6, id like to know for sure. Thanks guys, and good luck with fixing your tranny troubles cmpcpro .

Tom
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Old 02-20-2003, 09:46 PM   #6
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Yeah, I have enough fluid, but as for the banks, I never adjusted anything called that. I adjusted the band, but that was it. Do I need to adjust banks? The instructions didn't say anything about that.

Thanks for all your help!

And, no, basically none of the aftermarket shifters will work for the FMX, but a member on my Cougar board said he got a B&M to work, with minimal customizing.
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Old 02-20-2003, 11:14 PM   #7
hobgoblin351
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Yeah ok I cant spell! lol No banks just bands. If you adjusted them properly, and have fluid, I'm out of ideas. Anybody else with $0.02. Maybe the convertor but I'd ask a pro before spending a couple hundred on that.

Hey Metal, you get that thing running yet!! LOL I'd save your money and go with another tranny. I didn't have the money to get the one I want so I did a quick fix on the FMX, until I can get the one I want. The C6's are good and can handle anything. But, you've got a 351C right? You can get a C4 that when suped up will be fine. Less weight and more efficient than a C6. Personally I want a beefed up AOD. It can handle the horses and has an overdrive. Manually shifted, and with a transbrake, lets go hunting bear!! But it'll cost $$$ so I'm waiting.
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1970 Stang Conv:
en:Boss351 (balanced/blueprinted)
mech cam(240*@.050/.540 lift)
Scrw in studs/comp cams rllr rkr
Mldn valves 2.19in 1.71ex
ported polished cc'd hrdnd ex
Keith Black FT pistons(10.25/1)
Weiand Excellorator manifold
Holley700 DP mech 2nds
MSD 6 box and Dis
Headers/2 1/2 inch duels
tr: modified FMX
re:9-inch/3.89 limited slip
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Old 02-21-2003, 02:00 AM   #8
Metal396
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Ive been lookin up tonight the weight of an FMX tranny, it seems to be around 10 pounds heavier than a c4 and c6..... thats not too bad at all... thats puts it around 200 pounds... but i dunno i have plenty of time to deal with it...

and yeah my cars been up and running strong lately! new exhaust is great!!! been leavin more rubber on the road than i planned! lol. guess its time for those traction bars eh....

my ignition needs to be redone but i dont have the dough for that right now.... gotta save up...

This pic is 84 feet of rubber i left on my street,... if it was a through street i coulda left over 100 feet easily... but ran outa space.... check out in my users ride index or on my website, u can hear my new exhaust, its awesome... oh and u can hear that burnout! got vids but need to put on computer...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg img04.jpg (41.2 KB, 38 views)
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1973 Mustang Coupe 351 cleveland 2v heads
Edelbrock Performer Intake, Holley 600cfm carb
Hooker Headers, 2.5 inch pipes, Magnaflow X-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with turndowns.
Stock Fmx tranny and 2.75 rear end
My website:http://www.geocities.com/spddemontc
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Old 02-21-2003, 11:36 AM   #9
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Default Limited slip

Judging from the pic, the first thing I would save up for is a 3.25 Traction-Lock 3 rd member.

Rev
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Old 02-21-2003, 12:44 PM   #10
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lol, Rev, was going to say the same thing. Although, thats a nice one legger
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Old 02-21-2003, 02:00 PM   #11
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Default the slipping tranny

I am also no Tranny expert, but I have screwed up enough things with them that I am getting better.
Sounds too me like it is really just getting up there in milage and needs a rebuild. Adjusting the bands might help it limp along a little longer, but the whole it slips when it gets hot thing makes me think it is just worn out. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but I hope it helps in fixing it (long run atleast).
Ryan
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Old 02-21-2003, 07:40 PM   #12
Metal396
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Having the shift kit put on my FMX would suite my needs though right? From what i hear FMX's can take alot of power too.... And what did that guy do to modify a shifter and get it on the FMX, whats so different about the FMX!?! besides it has a cast iron case...

How much do the rear end gears cost and is it something that i should have the shop do? im thinking it would be but thats because im assuming really hard to do. 3.25 rear end would probably be a good gear for how i use my car, or u think i should go higher?

just checkin on other people's opinions, thanks for the help..
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1973 Mustang Coupe 351 cleveland 2v heads
Edelbrock Performer Intake, Holley 600cfm carb
Hooker Headers, 2.5 inch pipes, Magnaflow X-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with turndowns.
Stock Fmx tranny and 2.75 rear end
My website:http://www.geocities.com/spddemontc
User Rides Index: http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?2541
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Old 02-21-2003, 08:01 PM   #13
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Default 3 rd member

I think the 3.25 is a good compromise for a street driven car. Mine cruises 3000 rpm at 70 mph. You can put in the 3 rd member yourself, at least I did. Not really too tough a job. I think you would need a shop to build the 3 rd member though. I got mine from Currie in CA. I'm not sure whether you have an 8" or a 9" rear end. Either way, Currie can supply you with the 3 rd member. There are lots of options available, but be certain to get limited slip. Currie won't be cheap, but he has every ratio available and the quality is top notch.

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Old 02-22-2003, 01:44 AM   #14
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Default third member

I bought my 8 in third member from a place in kentucky with 4.10's, ford traction lock, cost me 375.00 or so

u should have no trouble changing it urself with a little help from the board
Ryan
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Old 02-23-2003, 12:44 PM   #15
hobgoblin351
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Metal, Currie is top notch. But you will pay for it. My friends is looking at a 9-inch Nodular case with 3.50 gears for 31 spline axles. Priced around $1,000. Thats without shipping, but then you're near Anaheim so you could just go and pick it up. There are probably other reputable places out there where you could get a better price. The install is not bad about a day. As far as the FMX goes, I put the shift kit in as a patch. The tranny I want was just to expensive right now . The kit only runs about $100. So the kit gives me the performance I need until I can get the tranny I want.
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1970 Stang Conv:
en:Boss351 (balanced/blueprinted)
mech cam(240*@.050/.540 lift)
Scrw in studs/comp cams rllr rkr
Mldn valves 2.19in 1.71ex
ported polished cc'd hrdnd ex
Keith Black FT pistons(10.25/1)
Weiand Excellorator manifold
Holley700 DP mech 2nds
MSD 6 box and Dis
Headers/2 1/2 inch duels
tr: modified FMX
re:9-inch/3.89 limited slip
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Old 02-23-2003, 09:10 PM   #16
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If you do get another third member, hold on to the one with the 2.75's in case you ever feel like going cross-country. It only takes about an hour to switch them out, and you would save a fortune on gas.
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