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MAJOR HELP: Rear-end swaying problem!
Hi,
I was going to the mall, and when taking a left turn, a man in front of me was taking a right turn. When he came behind me, he flagged me to pull over. After I did, I talked to him, and he told me my rear end is swaying a lot as I was going through the turn. He told me he's a mechanic and he's worked on this problem, and told me my rear end's U-BOLT (or U-JOINT - can't remember which he mentioned) has to be adjusted/fixed/replaced. Also, several weeks before, I saw my bro drive away, and I noticed the rear swayed left-to-right a bit (maybe about a .5 inch worth of play). Also, when driving, when taking turns and things, I hear clanking/squeaking in the rear end, and the ride quality just feels like my tires are gonna fall off. WHAT DO I DO? Please help! I have new OEM style springs replaced in Nov. but I still have the stock shocks/quads. If I were to get shocks reaplaced, what would you recommend? Bye! ------------------ Gautam N. Lad http://www.cubicdesign.com http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/ |
You should check your upper and lower control arms, they hold your rear end in place, the rubber bushings might have deteriorated. If that's the case, go to J&P Performance and get the MAC kit (both upper and lower control arms) with better bushings.
------------------ 1994 Mustang GT with 110K miles, ported cobra intake, ported edlebrock heads, 1 3/4" long tube, b303 cam, 2 chamber flowmasters, cobra-r wheels, cobra front brake kit, saleen wing, recaro seats, radar detector, etc. |
Hi,
A couple of peole have told me my upper/lower control arms' bushings are shot. My budget is kinda limited ($100CDN parts - $65US) so what kind of bushings can I get for that (please don't reply with something stupid, cuz I obviously am not made of money). J&P is kinda far from where I live, so I'm wondering whether local shops (Ford dealer, Green+Ross, etc.) would carry poly-urethane bushings. Thanks! Bye! ------------------ Gautam N. Lad http://www.cubicdesign.com http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/ |
How much racing do you do? i hate to say this, but it could be a torque box, although id say it's most likely the control arms, my car feels (mushy) and sways a little too, especially under hard acceleration http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif.
------------------ 90 lx coupe: 175k miles, steeda water pump pully, hurst shifter, Mac cold air fenderwell, accel supercoil, ADS chip, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs. Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks) Best mph: 98.17 Best 60': 1.9607 next mods: subframes, mac h-pipe |
Hi,
I haven't actually raced on a strip yet, but I do on occasions launch hard on the streets (like at a red light)... I've also experienced severe wheel hop at times which I would guess has caused my control arms bushings to wear out faster. Man, I'd hate to shell out $500CDN ($325US) for upper/lower aftermarket control arms. Will see what I can do. Bye! ------------------ Gautam N. Lad http://www.cubicdesign.com http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/ |
Yeah, i've read that the rearend steer that is common to mustangs is a result of the soft stock rubber control arm bushings even if the bushings are fine. The wheel hop is likely a result of the shot bushings, my car also does the "sway" but my bushings aren't cracked or anything, just soft. If you replace at least the bushings with polyeurethane ones, or get aftermarket control arms, it's likely the problem will go away. good luck.
------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 LX My car |
Hi,
I called up Concepts-In-Motion which is a local performance parts store for (mainly) stangs. Their quote on Mac upper/lower control arms: $365 + $200 (install) + tax = $650CDN ($420US). http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/eek.gif http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/eek.gif http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/eek.gif http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/eek.gif According to my part-time job, that's about 3-4 weeks woth of work (1 week = 20hrs shift). Damn! Bye! ------------------ Gautam N. Lad http://www.cubicdesign.com http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/ |
I priced out the Energy Suspension bushings for the rear, and they're only like $60 cdn. You could have your stock control arms boxed in and that'd be a lot cheaper than buying the MAC ones. (I know cuz I have MAC adj uppers, and lowers now and cost quite a bit). Hope that helps.
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Hi,
Well, cost of bushings is not a big deal, but it's the labor fee by a shop that's kinda expensive. I've been told by others that having a mechanic put the bushings in is more expensive (quoted: $200CDN-$300CDN). I think I'll only get the lower control arms (maybe the Mac since the shop is closer) cuz someone told me the uppers will make handling a bit stiff... Im guessing my total cost for this is around $400CDN, which doesn't sound too bad.. Bye! ------------------ Gautam N. Lad http://www.cubicdesign.com http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/ |
You can get a set of Factory Five upper nad lower control arms for around $199 US. Then do the install your self. It's not hard at all.
------------------ 87 GT, 4 inch cowl hood,17x9 Cobra R's/255/45's,GT-40 heads,Crane 2031, Edelbrock intake, long tubes headers,h-pipe,Flows,BBK cold air, Mass air,70mm MAF, 1.7's, 1" spacer,underdrive pulleys,Pro 5.0, King Cobra, Adj. fuel Reg., Lakewood Lift Bars,50/50's,subframes, 4.10's. Best time 12.759 Best MPH 106.79 Best 60' 1.695 Visit my site at: http://www.geocities.com/cobrar93_2000/MyPage.html |
Hi,
Well, I emailed J&P Performance (Im sure you've all heard of them), and they have their in-house brand of uppers/lowers for $100/$179 respectively. They come with aluminum bushings, and I figure their install is prolly around $100..They are too far, so I might just get the Mac lowers for $200-$250+$100 install = $400CDN ($260US)... We'll see...gotta convince my (dumb-a$$ed bro to stop with his idea of going with OEM bushings)...just pissed me off like mad thinking about what he wants when he doesn't jack $hit about the car...DAMN! http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/mad.gif http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/mad.gif Bye! ------------------ Gautam N. Lad http://www.cubicdesign.com http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/ [This message has been edited by Gautam (edited 06-14-2001).] |
I agree with 93CobraR...buy a set of less expensive control arms and install yourself. They are very simple bolt in parts. You just need a jack, jack stands, and simple hand tools. Although an impact wrench makes the job easier but is not required. While your in there you can check the torque boxes for damage. After the control arms are installed you can get rid of the quad shocks.
------------------ fordgasm CLICK HERE to see my 87 GT |
Hi,
Hmm, Ya know, I think I'll do that (buy jacks/stands and do it myself).... Firstly, I've NEVER done any work on my car yet that's major...Hell, I still haven't bought jacks/stands. How hard would it be for a newbie to install lowers? I mean, it's not like I just take out old parts, and stick in the news...does anything else have to be removed in order to get to the lowers? I think i'll go buy jacks/stands in the next week. As for Quads, I would either buy new and flip them, or nothing at all... Bye! ------------------ Gautam N. Lad http://www.cubicdesign.com http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/ |
i wouldnt run aluminum bushings on the street..get the MAC's
------------------ 1987 black notch(ex 4 banger) DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one.. AIM=onesillynotch http://cwm.ragesofsanity.com/contrib/owen/scatter.gif |
The very first thing you need to do is confirm what the problem is. Get that jack (Get a nice big jack with a lot of lift, and a wide removable cup. It's nice to have more than one jack, too. I have two bottles of different size and an old Sears hydraulic jack) and those jack stands (I've got monster ones so I can lift the car nice and high). Put it up in the air, remove the wheels and look around and feel around. You should be able to find out what it is.
If it is indeed the control arms, get the Factory 5s as suggested and install them yourself. If you don't have an impact wrench, which seems likely, make sure you have a good breaker bar with a cheater pipe and lots of penetrating oil. It's likely that the fastners are pretty rusted by now. There's always a first project and this is as good as one as any. I've always used the money I would save on installation to buy tools. It may cost the same, or even a little more, but it will be a lot less the next time around. I bought my air compressor and impact wrench when I did my springs. I couldn't get the nut off of the top of the strut without it. To raise the vehicle the easiest, block the front wheels and slide the jack under the differential housing. Jack that up until you can slide the jack stands under the frame rails on each side just about where the mufflers are. I put them behind that flat piece of metal that connects the frame rail to the body. Let the jack down on the stands and then give the car a shove or two to make sure everything is solid. Good luck with it. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible |
Oh, yeah. Never buy cheap hand tools. Get some that are guaranteed for life and are of high quality. Get impact sockets for the breaker bar, or at least get 6 point sockets.
------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible |
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