Cam experts - help?
 

I put my Crane 2031 in this weekend. The problem I ran into was I couldn't quite get it to 0 lash, let alone .020-.060 preload - meaning I tightened the pedestal roller rockers down to 24 ft/lbs and I still had a little slop in the pushrod. I know this means I need longer pushrods.
Question One - How do I determine how long a pushrod I need? Where do I get them? PAW, where I got the cam, says it should work with the stock pushrods, they don't really seem to have a selection of additional lengths.
Question Two - I ran it for about 5 minutes before I decided it wasn't going to cut it. Will running it for five minutes like that damage anything? It was pretty noisy.

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86 GT, GT40P heads, Cobra cam, 1.7 RR's, Cobra intake, 65mm TB, 73mm Vortech, 24# injectors, MAC GT40P headers, 2-1/2" BBK H-pipe (w/cats), Flowmasters, 3.55s.
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Crane 2031 on order

I think you did it wrong? Did u have the cam in the right position for each valve when you set it? Your stock rods should work.

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1993 GT/AOD
'93 Mustang GT

Nope - it's right. Nothing changed but the cam. Rockers are bolted down properly, pushrods are in right. I've got about .030 clearance between the roller tip and the valve when it's bolted down tight. I guess I'm going to order Crane's 6.375" pushrod. That's 0.1" longer than stock.

For anyone who runs into this problem in the future - I installed the Crane 6.375" pushrods and the larger shim under the pedestal. The rocker bolts were 1/2 to 3/4 turn from 0 lash to 24 ft/lbs torque. Now I just need to get the alternater to charge and I'll be rolling again.

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86 GT, GT40P heads, Crane 2031, 1.7 RR's, Cobra intake, 65mm TB, 73mm Vortech, 24# injectors, MAC GT40P headers, 2-1/2" BBK H-pipe (w/cats), Flowmasters, 3.55s.

[This message has been edited by withamc (edited 02-22-2001).]

I used the bolt down rockers with stock rods, and it fit perfectly, w/o shims.

Make sure you tight them in the proper sequence... or when each piston is at TDC after the compression stroke.

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'89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 155K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, MarkVIII fan, Variflow controller, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, conv. motor mounts, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, polli

An easier fix would have been to take your pedestals to a machine shop and have them machined to reduce the height. This is a simple job for a machine shop and will take them about 30 minutes to do all 16.

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88 347, Twisted wedge heads,Comp Cams 224/230 cam, 1/4=10.718 @ 123.02 mph,dyno= [URL=http://www.fbody.com/members/LarryS/mustdyno.jpg[/URL]

I wish I had thought of that. I have a friend who's dad owns a machine shop, although they tend to shy away from automotive work.

How is it running now???

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PPG Torch Red 95GT, Ported Explorer Intake, E-303 cam, 75mm MAS, BBK Adj. fuel Reg & gauge, BBK Shorty Headers, BBK H-pipe, March Pulleys, 2 Chamber Flowmasters, Kenny Brown 6 point Roll cage, Kenny Brown Panhard Bar, Powerslot Rotors, Eibach Sportline Springs, 180* Thermostat, 1/2 Plenum Spacer, MSD 6AL, MSD Master Blaster, MSD 8.8 Wires, 19# Racing Injectors, AFS 10.5" Cobra R's, Nitto 555's, Eclipse & JL Stereo System... I just sold My K&N, It looks funny with Stock Air Box & filter!!!

I'm still waiting to get the alternator wired up. Hopefully by this weekend. I'll swing by Best Buy if you're there.

i work all next week 9-6, (digital camaras) see you later!!!
i dont work weekends!! my car will be parked in the middle of all the rice burners...