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-   -   Dyno results inside with timing adjuster installed (http://forums.mustangworks.com/showthread.php?t=14219)

Mustang92 02-19-2001 10:07 PM

Dyno results inside with timing adjuster installed
 
Had my car dyno'd today at UPR to see what kind of difference the timing adjuster did plus to try out a few settings. Last time I had the car on the dyno it got 244.6RWHP (no tourqe numbers). Here were the results as follows:

Timing HP TQ
14 253.8 292.8
15 251 290
16 247 286
17 250 289

Obviously 14 worked the best. All runs where done with the car at full temp (center of gauge) for consistency and with 93 octane. On the best run peak HP was made at 5100RPM and tourqe at 4125RPM. Only things done to the car since the 244 dyno was changing out the stock alt. pulley for the Steeda pulley and the timing adjuster. I'm sure the alt. pulley didn't give me a whole lot. So I gained roughly 9RWHP with the adjuster.

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00 GT, MAC Offroad H, Steeda Pulleys, Steeda Timing Adjuster, FMS 4.10’s, Flows w/turndowns, UPR shifter, UPR subframes, UPR LCA’s, Air Filter, Lakewood 70/30 & 50/50, Weld Pro Stars, Nitto DR’s, Best ET on DR's 13.09@103.92 (1.81 60ft), Best on ET Drags 12.99@104.60 (1.67 60ft) 244.6 RWHP
M/M 100
88 LX coupe X-FHP, 12pt Cage, UPR K-member, 31 spline rear, full spool…
85 Thunderbird Stock

97snakedriver 02-19-2001 11:29 PM

Not bad. The Steeda TA and pulleys are a pretty potent set of easy modifications. 15-20 rwhp it seems.

Ares 02-19-2001 11:35 PM

Nice, another item to add to must buy list still.

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2000 GT Laser red-5speed
MAC Cold-air Induction
MAC 2 1/2" cat back exhuast
275/50-15 Drag T/A's used at track
Best Quarter mile run to date: 13.50@99.97 (1.87 60')


SMOKE 02-20-2001 05:11 AM

Great documentation for the advantages of a T/A on these mod motors.


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K!
Personalized Black 98 SVO Blown ROUSH without the side exhaust but other cool stuff
Dyno 303rwhp 338rwtrq
Still working out the kinks!!!


[This message has been edited by SMOKE (edited 02-20-2001).]

Mustang92 02-20-2001 07:22 AM

I'm very careful with choosing mods on my car but now I'm running out of simple bolt-on's to do. Figure I'm making the following power over stock...

Now Stock Diff
253.8/.85= 298.5FWHP 260FWHP 38.5HP
292.8/.85= 344.4FWTQ 302FWTQ 42.4TQ

Mods:
Offroad H
Steeda Pullies/Timing Adjuster
UPR Big Mouth Filter
Flows (added nothing but good sound http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...oard/smile.gif )

I may shortly change over to Long Tubes and Offroad X. I tried a custom dyno tune but my car actually lost power. The tuner is very reputable and did everything he could but just couldn't get any gains out of it. He said my stock A/F ratio was dead on from factory.

97snakedriver 02-20-2001 02:13 PM

I thought these mod motors didn't respond well to modifications.... Or maybe it was just it took the people making parts a while to catch up with the mod motor...

Those are some awsome gains. I need to get my car dyno'd. I drove in a friend's stocker a couple of days ago. It felt sooo sloooowww.

Ares 02-20-2001 05:48 PM

I think its just a matter of choosing the right parts to really wake these motors up, not that the newer ones seem to need much help there.

91LX2Bfast 02-20-2001 09:24 PM

No, its the 96-98 SOHC mod motors that are the dogs. The heads were so bad that nothing short of a power adder can really help a whole lot. The power seems to flow out of the 99=GT's in the same way that it used to w/ the 5.0's. Why? the PI head design is so much improved. The aftermarket parts really haven't change a whole lot, its just finally there is another great motor in the Stang.

It just proves that a good set of heads can make or break your engine combo. No matter what bolt on you put on a 96-98, you are being blocked by the head design. And a heavy P&P doesn't cure the 96-98 heads either.


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