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Heater core leaks...
The core is leaking again, I need opinions on an idea. I want to isolate the core, flush it, and put some kind of stop leak in. Should I get one of those drill-operated pumps to circulate the water/stop leak? (to keep the stop leak out of the rest of the system) Thanks, Al
------------------ '85 ltd lx with pace car front clip, 10-holes, RR's, K&N, shorties/3-inch. |
IMO, I wouldn't waste time with any "stop leak" products and would just replace the core. If it's leaking "again," don't fight it, succumb to the CHANGING OF THE CORE.
MMMMMMMMuuuuuuwwwwwhhhhhhhaaaaaaaa ------------------------------- '79 Mustang Coup 4" Cowl Weld wheels (15x6;15x8) Stock 5.8L C4 w/ shift kit 1.5" MAC full length headers Holley 750 CFM Edelbrock intake 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters 8.8" Rear end w/ 3.55 gears (Now that's more like it!!) http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif Front: 225/60/15 Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II 14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup soon) http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/cool.gif "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
Ahh, one of the great joys of owning a fox body. I would say replace it as well, do it carfully though, so that the new one will last longer.
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Your best bet would be to replace it, This is the most fun you'll have if you do it yourself. Or you could just bypass it for now and wait till you can afford to get it done.
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Thanks guys, I get the point! The car sat all winter due to the leak. I guess i'll keep it bypassed until I decide to fix it.
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Like Fox Body sugested, I would replace the heater core. I had to do it on my 93 LX. It is definatly an experience. Email me if you have any questions.
------------------ KidNotch4793 1993 LX 5.0 Notchback Eddlebrock intake,K&N, 70mm,Underdrive pullies, Jacobson ignition, Borla,3:73's, Subframe connectors, Hurst shifter, Centerforce, Saleen Wing, Cobra Badges. |
If you really want a laugh, call a Ford dealership and ask them the labor on changing out the core.
Did it on my '79: 30 minutes (just take out the glove box) My buddy's 89GT: 4 hours |
DUDE!! I AM SO SORRY! I just replaced mine this winter, deffinately a life altering experiance. Good luck! Light Em Up!!! http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif
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Quote:
Yeah it sucks, but a Ford dealership would charge ~$400 dollars. I'd rather learn more about my car than take the easy, costly way out. ------------------------------- '79 Mustang Coup 4" Cowl Weld wheels (15x6;15x8) Stock 5.8L C4 w/ shift kit 1.5" MAC full length headers Holley 750 CFM Edelbrock intake 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters 8.8" Rear end w/ 3.55 gears (Now that's more like it!!) http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif Front: 225/60/15 Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II 14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup soon) http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/cool.gif "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
Well on the bright side the mustang isn't bad compared to a Ford Taurus, the mustang is a b/tch but the Taurus you have to take the entire dash assembly OUT to get to it. Flat rate time on that is like 8 hours....not that this has anything to do with your car, but it just reaffirms my gladness in not having a ford taurus. Good luck!
------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 T5, FMS aluminum radiator & 180* thermostat, 1 5/8 shortys/2.5" duals, '88 GT tail lights and wheels, Holley 4160 4 BBL, smog pump idler, more coming soon |
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