Ported Stock Intake HP???
 

Ok, A Guy Has A Ported Stock Intake, 3.55s, 14*, & underdrives. Could You Please Give A HP Prediction, & Suggest other mods.

Thanks....

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1988 Mustang GT, T-5
No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe, K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), Removed air silendcer), 198.9 rwhp @4200 (235 Motor!!), 285 lbs-ft @2900 (336 Motor!!!).
My Stang
My Site

I'd say with that combo about 190rwhp. But I really don't know what kind of car, SD, MAF, 1986, or 1995, so it's hard to say.

AOD, or T-5?

Does he want cheap, N/A forced induction? Give us some hints and we'll set him straight! http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/wink.gif

1990 LX, T-5

Cold air induction, G3 alternator, electric fan, Hi-flow cat, 2.5" catback (those two will make a big higher rpm difference), subframes.

Those are all good entry level mods, if he wants to go further, he's gonna need to give an idea of how quick, and what budget.

I'm gonna stick with 190rwhp.

Unit, My stang is pushin 198,9 rwhp, so shouldnt he be makin more??? Please Check my other post unit, thanks

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1988 Mustang GT, T-5
No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe, K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), Removed air silendcer), 198.9 rwhp @4200 (235 Motor!!), 285 lbs-ft @2900 (336 Motor!!!).
My Stang
My Site

PORTED HEADS!!

I'd go for exhaust as well (really opened my car up). From there you could go with a bigger MAF and TB, but you won't see much with it until you get the exhaust done more than likely.

But if you get anywhere near the heads while tearing the engine down sometime I'd say go ahead and pull the heads and do a little work in them. I did and I'll let you know for sure here in a week or so how it helped me, but I'm adding a ton of stuff at the same time so I won't be able to tell where I gained the most.

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Indiana Stangers Association
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I doubt it.

Your 88 SD car is going to be stronger, especially up north where it's cold. The SD cars run a little richer, and when you get really cold air it makes them even stronger.

I've found my car is a fricken monster for a stock GT when it gets cold.

While you are that far down you better go and port those heads. A great and easy way to get some HP. You can prob do it yourself too. Then get ya some headers and let her run!

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347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Cobra Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extude Ported and Polished Upper and Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, March Underdrive Pulleys, Electric Fan, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, NGK Plugs, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, High Tolerant Painted Calipers and Drums.

Yes , he should port the crap out of those stock heads , the stock exhaust port is so small it hurts , it would even hurt a 2.3 l. In fact a 2.9 l v6 has bigger exhaust ports. However , porting with a dremel tool is like changing yours wheels with a 3/8" ratchet . He should read up on porting before going at it, you can make a huge mess if you dont understand what to do and why, albeit he wont make a big mess in any kind of hurry with a dremel.

Ok Guys, he has a full exhaust, bbk 1-5/8 shorties, off rd h-pipe, & Dynomax super turbos.

Also, a K&N

Wouldn't 4.10s make this thing fly?? He has them in a box at his house.

The 4:10's will make a big differnce in how fast the cars is but he will gain no power from it. I would cocentrate on the suspension and get it to hook then add more power. All the power isn't worth it unless it gets to the ground http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif

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Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!

Definitly port the heads and if he's got 4.10's laying around then by all means....throw em on. Should help out a little bit.

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1966 Baby blue Coupe, 289 w/ man. 3-speed, nothing special but the fact that it is my first mustang. I am a former import guru....no more.

I've never run it except on the street, it has new wheels & tires, new exaust, and that about covers it. Looking to change a lot in the future including engine. Any ideas are appreciated.

I second the above posts. Porting a set of stock heads is always a good idea if that is all your budget allows. The 4.10's would also be a good idea, as it will help you get into the power band much quicker... although 4.10's are a bit steep (in my opinion) for the daily driver. I went with 3.73's and am completely happy. If he is looking for a little more power for relatively cheap, he can pick up a set of iron gt-40's for around $300.00 and clean those up. Just my quick 2 cents.

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MAC equal length headers, MAC Off-Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster mufflers, 373's, March ram-air kit, underdrive pulleys, 73mm MAF, 75mm TB, Saleen Intake (ported), Edelbrock 6037 heads (ported, polished, 3 angle valve-job 255CFM @.500), 1.6 FMS RR's, Wolverine 1087 Cam, 24lb injectors, MSD 6AL, Subframe connectors, Griggs Adustable Lower Control Arms, Lakewood 50/50 shocks, SSM Upper Control Arms... and probably some more in there I forgot

With the additional exhaust mods and ported stock heads I'd say he'll be pushing around 220rwhp. That means he best have a hiflow fuel pump or he'll be starving that engine to death.

If he does the GT-40 irons and an E cam he'll be in the 250rwhp area. That's probably going to be limited badly by stock MAF and intake (even ported). Changing to a new intake like the Explorer, TFS, or Cobra, adding a new MAF, AFPR, and a 65mm T/B will boost that to probably 280rwhp. After that new hiflowing heads will have to go on for sure. That and he'll NEED 24lb injectors.