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-   -   C&L or Pro-M?? (http://forums.mustangworks.com/showthread.php?t=18273)

Stang_Crazy 01-13-2002 02:08 PM

C&L or Pro-M??
 
I can't seem to decide on what kind of MAF I should buy. I know alot of people have Pro-M but I have been reading up on the 76mm C&L unit and it sounds a little better.

Can anyone tell me (good or bad) their experience with C&L?? The MAF would be calibrated for 19lb. injectors.

egiap's 5.0 01-13-2002 06:41 PM

I use the C&L meter. One advantage is when you upgrade to larger injecters you buy a $19 sample tube and go. Pro-m has to go back to manufacture when going up in injecter size.

91GTturbo 01-14-2002 07:58 AM

I've always used C&L meters and never had any problems. You can get the 76 mm with or without the aluminized elbow. It's a nice piece, really cleans up the engine compartment, and is suppose to give a little added hp over just the meter.

95mustanggt 01-14-2002 02:18 PM

I have a Granetelli (Pro-M) and I love it. I had a electronic problem with the sensor and the guys a Summit told be to stay away from the C&L or Vortech units because they use the stock electronics.

Either way the stock MAF sucks and you'll be better off than before.

shadow 01-14-2002 04:58 PM

I just put the C&L 76mm maf, with the aluminium tube, on my GT. There is a power increase through the mid and upper rpm range. I'd recommend it , especially if you are planning on doing mods later. A Pro-M costs around $100 bucks to get recalibrated if you change injectors, the C&L only costs around $20. Like 95mustanggt said, any upgrade is better than stock.

1BAD89 01-14-2002 06:58 PM

Quote:

The MAF would be calibrated for 19lb. injectors.
What are all your mod's? Unless your heavily mod'd you won't feel an ounce of difference in power. Trust me, been there done that. I had a 76mm C&L and...it uses the stock electronics which I don't like. But it's supposed to be the best of the best, mag. test showed like 10hp over the PRO-M 75mm, or 77mm, I can't remember, with 19lb injectors I'm assuming your close to stock, if so don't buy a diff. MAF it's a waste of money at that stage.

Stang_Crazy 01-14-2002 07:49 PM

Yea, I'm still basically stock. I have to update my sig with my new parts. In addition to my sig, I also have: Underdrive pulleys, 130amp alternator, electric fan, aluminum radiator, 4.10's and DR's.

So will a new MAF help my setup?? If it won't, what is the next step I should take? Headers??

1BAD89 01-14-2002 10:20 PM

If I were you, I wouldn't buy a new Mass Air at this point. The real power is in the heads, then intake. Unless your getting aftermarket heads, I wouldn't get headers either. What are your plans for the car?

Stang_Crazy 01-16-2002 02:35 AM

I plan on building the car into a mid-12 second daily driver. I was trying to get most of the little things out of the way this winter and spring.

Then save during summer and do heads, intake and cam next winter.

2FastLX 01-16-2002 08:10 AM

I think headers will definately help you out. They did for me.
But if I were you I'd step up to long tubes, which involves buying a new cross-over as well though.

So, you might do as 1BAD89 said and do something with your heads. Even if you can't afford a new set of aluminum heads you can sometimes find good deals on GT-40P's which would make a difference, especially if you port them.

With them you'd have to buy new headers anyway because the exhaust ports are different with these heads.

Oh, and on the MAS choice - I have a 76mm that I absolutely loved on my previous setup. It looked nice, and performed great.

And as far as people not liking it because it uses the stock electronics... why?? Would you rather run to a parts store and buy a new stock meter and rip the sensor off of it? Or send it to Pro-M and have them replace it? There's not much price difference either way. And it's not like the sensors go out all the time anyway. I've never had one go bad on me.


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