4cyl clutch pedal vs 5.0 pedal?
 

I am having a problem with my clutch I think. When I shift through the gears it will grind, but if I push in the clutch and wait for a few seconds it will shift fine.
I put the car up on jackstands and had a friend push the clutch to the floor when it was running while I was under the car. I could see the clutch disk, and it took a few seconds to stop spinning when he pushed the pedal. Is this normal or should it stop right away? If not that would explain my grinding problem. I talked to the people who did my trans and they said my clutch is not disengaging all the way. They assured me that it is not the trans.
I have a proshifted TKO II, with a Ram 900 11" longstyle clutch and pressure plate, a Ram throughout bearing, a lakewood bellhousing, and a adj pivot ball. The clutch pedal that I am using is the origanal one from my 79 4 cilinder.
The 4 cilinder pedal dosn't have a quadrent of any type on it, the cable conects to the pedal directly. I guess what I am asking is... will the 4 cyl pedal, and the 5.0 pedal pull the cable the same distance when the pedal is down to the floor? The reason I ask is because I have checked everething that there is to check and this is the only thing that I can think of.
Please help this is driving me nuts!

tighten up you adjustable cable..where does the clutch feel like its picking up..i know newer style 4cly clutches work..but they have paw and quadrent..all the adj paw and quandentrs say they work with 79-93 mustangs so i would imagin that yours is no diffrent and has the same amount of pull...if you dont have an adjustable cable then get one

i used a 4 cylinder pedal assembly when i converted to a 5 speed and it did come with a plastic quadrant, but i quickly removed it and installed an adjustable one. it does work good though with no problems

I thought some of the early 4 banger cars came with adjustable cables which means that the self-adjusting quadrant on the pedal was eliminated. I would assume that your cable has stretched.

I'd suggest getting an aluminum quadrant, firewall adjuster, and stock cable. Your clutch fork geometry is another thing to check too. On my Mcleod scattershield the cable was rubbing on the opening. A .155 thick washer under the ball-stud set everything straight.

andy

I bought a new cable (4cyl), quadrent, and a firewall adjuster. The quadrent would not fit the pedal because the holes do not line up:mad: .

andy669, I had the same problem with the cable rubbing on the bellhousing but I took care of that.

I have the cable adjusted so there is very little freeplay hopeing the clutch will disengage all the way. I am lost here.

Now that I think about it this is my first proshifted trans. Maybe it shifts like this because there is no syncros. It shifts into gear but it sounds like the gears are crashing into each other. I took it to the track once and it shifted through the gears way better then my 3550 did with syncros, but it is just violent sounding. Has anyone ever driven in a car with a proshifted trans before? If so what was it like?